Fitting External Temp Sensor & Fiesta Ghia X Clock

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FlashBastd

New member
Joined
May 19, 2009
Messages
1,585
Location
West Yorks
December 2008
Hi, just got around to fitting the external temp sensor and posh clock, here is what I did;

The parts you need are;

Fiesta Ghia X clock, with temp function
Ford temp probe (high spec Granada / Scorpio / Focus / Mondeo Mk1 & 2, all Mondeo Mk3, or the Fiesta the clock came out of), ideally with as long of a length of wiring beyond the plug as possible, and the clip to mount the plug.
Approx 5m twin core cable
Computer audio connector
Length of wire coathanger
Black duct tape
Torx screwdrivers
10mm socket
Crimp connectors
Computer audio connection (see below)
Cable ties

Preparation;

Remove the stereo and pop out your existing clock, you will notice that the plug is quite chunky. Remove the white plastic cover from the back of your new clock and enlarge the hole, a dremmel is ideal, but I did it with a stanley knife and pair of wire cutters.

Connect the 5m of cable to the temp sensor, I used crimp connectors and wrapped up the wiring with insulating tape.

When you look at the connectors on the back of the new clock, you will see there are 6 pins together as per your existing clock, and two pins on their own for the temp sensor. What I did was take the new clock to Maplin and look for computer audio connections that looked as though they would fit. I bought three different ones, took them home, and as the first one fitted well, returned the others. As you only need the plug with a length of wire stemming from it, snip the plug from the other end.

Take your temp sensor and temporarily connect to the new clock and plug into the cars wiring to make sure it works, if it does - positive eBay feedback, if not, check your connections, then contact the seller.

Right, so we know it all works, connect time to fit it.

1. remove front numberplate

med_gallery_30_263_59185.jpg


2. remove lower grille (tabs along the top and bottom, be careful, some will break)

3. Disconnect negative terminal of battery (10mm socket)

4. Open bonnet, remove top of airbox, disconnecting MAF from loom and ducting to throttle body

5. Remove upper grille (two torx)

6. Remove n/s headlamp (two torx and twist clip to inside front of headlamp to release rear catch.

7. Peel back rear insulating strip and remove engine bay fusebox lid (iirc 2 clips)

8. Unplug the two large plugs from the fusebox, this is only to make it a bit easier to get the temp sensor wiring through the grommet, along with the other wiring from the fusebox.

9. Release and open the wiring loom holder from the n/s of the engine bay - towards the rear of the engine bay this is held in place by a tie wrap with a push clip on it. If you are careful, you can snip a bit out and re-fit later with some more conventional tie wrap.

10. Remove and disconnect stereo

11. Remove and disconnect old clock

12. Peel back door rubber on n/s door to allow the carpet to be folded back, providing access to the kick panel area

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13. mount temp sensor, if you look behind the bumper to the o/s of where the numberplate mounts you will see a rectangular slot, this is the OE location for the temp sensor. I mounted the sensor here then clipped the sensor plug to the lower edge of the slam panel.

med_gallery_30_263_79996.jpg


14. run the wiring up to the top of the panel behind the bumper and then through the space in the panel to the headlamp area.

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15. the wiring for the headlamp and MAF runs through a tidy cover. Undo the clip and one end and the tape at the other, and fix the wiring inside it, before replacing the clip and using the duct tape to re-fix the other end of the cost.

16. the wiring then runs up the inside of the wing, through a wiring cover, run the new wiring through this, then into the upper fusebox from the left hand end, where you will see an opening.

17. check and secure your wiring so far with tie wraps, at this stage you can refit the wiring cover along the side of the engine bay.

18. take the coathanger, straighten it, and using the duct tape fix the end of the wire to it. Make sure the end isn't sharp, using the duct tape to blunt / soften it to avoid damaging the existing wiring.

med_gallery_30_263_60574.jpg


19. using the coathanger, ease the wiring down through the grommet into the cabin of the car.

20. reach up behind the edge of the glovebox and hopefully find the wiring. Remove the duct tape and extract the coathanger. Pull through any excess wiring.

21. you should have plenty of wire in the cabin now, so it is as good a time as any to connect the plug to the wiring.

22. route the wiring to the back of the clock area, connect to the new clock and connect the car loom to the clock. You can refit the clock now, but don't refit the stereo until we know it works.

23. refit airbox, connect ducting to MAF, reconnect loom to MAF

24. replace headlamp, don't forget to plug it in. Remember, two torx AND the twist clip.

25. reconnect the two large plugs in the engine bay fusebox, replace fusebox lid and the rubber sealing strip.

26. reconnect the battery

med_gallery_30_263_50860.jpg


27. check that the temp clock works as it did when you initially checked it prior to installation.

28. refit stereo

med_gallery_30_263_103761.jpg


29. set clock, stereo settings

30. refit grilles & numberplate

and I think that is about it!

part no's:
temp sensing clock - 1011837 - £96.35
temp sensor - 6820218 - £50.93
 
Mine is still half done lol, half gave up as i couldnt get the wire into the fuse box.
 
hello flash.. was reading through your post and wondered if I could ask a question about this one..

med_gallery_30_263_103761.jpg


is that a second cig lighter you have installed on left hand side ?
if so.. would it be possible for your to put on a guide just like this one about temp. sensor ?

thanks..
 
IIRC there is space behind that part of the dash so you just literally need to cut the right size hole for the specific 12v socket you fit then wire it up in parallel to the existing one. remember your load must still not exceed the load for the socket circuit. You could of course wire up a new fused supply from the fusebox if you have heavy load equipment.
 
thanks warren.. its' tomtom I want to connect to.. parallel wiring sounds a good idea will give it a try over this holiday period.
cheers :)
 
Sorry, that is actually the button for the Nokia CK-7W car kit.

Another option is to mount one in the glove compartment and run the cable front there.
 
I've just used this excellent guide to fit an external temp sensor clock. A couple of further points which may be of benefit.
The first concerns removing the lower radiator grill. I used a length of stiff wire (I had some stainless steel 4mm dia wire laying around) with the end 15mm bent 90 degrees which enabled the tabs to be pushed back to release the tongues (the tabs on the tongues are on the side furthest from the centre of the grill). Still fiddly but more effective than a screwdriver AND no tag was broken, but the warmer weather probably helped them to be more pliable.
Secondly, initially the gauge gave whacky readouts (40c) so I tried reversing the polarity of the connection to the sensor but no change. Then tried connecting the sensor after connecting battery in case some sort of re-boot occurred but gauge then read -5c. In desperation, went for a cuppa and on return gauge read 28 :-( . Over the next couple of days it became more accurate and is now OK :grin: so be aware that the display seems to be self calibrating - very surprising.
 
I just did the same thing and had good readout as soon as I connected it. I did have a bit of a problem of another sort. The clock I bought on eBay had one display array (top of figure 8 ) dead. The seller didn't mention it on his eBay listing. So, I dismantled the old clock, the 'new' one and after that swapped the LCD displays. Now it works perfectly and gives me the same temperature readout as MkII focus; so I assume it is correct
 

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