Fuel pump fuse blowing

Hi Guys other than the fuel pump failing or maybe a blocked fuel filter are there any other likely options for a fuel pump fuse blowing? and replacements immediately blowing when the ignition key is turned on but before turning her over?

Can a failed relay cause fuses to blow?

I started her fine as usual on Saturday morning and pumped up a slow puncture. Then half an hour later when I tried to restart her she blew the fuel pump fuse and then blew the replacement fuse as soon as I turned on the ignition to start her. This was before even turning her over, just as soon as I turned on the ignition the fuse blew.

I washed her the day before but the fuse box is bone dry and I cant imagine this caused the problem.

Thanks in advance

Hi Gary
The relay coil is fed via F30 (15A) if this one is blowing then yes, the relay would be faulty.
The pump is supplied via F31 (10A). If it's this one that's blowing then it's very likely your pump has come to the end of its days.
Paul

Hiya :thumbs: , Cheers Paul its definitely the fuel pump fuse that's blowing and F30 is perfectly fine.

I had this problem when i put in some stale petrol. I blew down the fuel return with an airline (130PSI) after blowing about 10 fuses and it's been fine ever since.

Mine blew once and then 6 months later again but wouldn't be resurrected by a new fuse. I would look at replacing the pump to be honest Questy-dumpling. :wink:

I'm in a bit of a stew about what to do :grin:

Remove the positive feed to the pump, replace the fuse and turn on the ignition. If the fuse does not blow it is the pump. If you have a test meter measure the resistance, no resistance, short circuit. Good Luck.

Hi Gary

Get down to euro car parts only about £4 for the filter try that first, it's probably not been changed for many years.

Go for the cheapest and easyist option

Cheers

Wilge

Cheers Andy but it was one of the first things I changed when I bought her and she's done pretty low mileage say less than 5k in two years .

However having said that I will put it on the list of to do's before ripping the tank out. :thumbs:

I'm Mr cheap and easy personified :-D

Sounds like an interesting test from kawazian, who? Welcome :grin:

Yes indeed I have been thinking on that suggestion.

It did raise some questions though as I'm electrically illiterate.

1) The only way I can think of to remove the positive feed to the tank which doesn't involve cutting wires underneath the back seat is by dropping the tank and removing the multi plug to it. Will this test still be valid with all the other connections removed for example I assume it will be earthed through the same multi plug and of course there are also other wires for the sender and fuel guage.

2) I don't currently have a tester but where would I measure the resistance if I did? across the tanks multi plug after removing it? across the multi plug while its still connected to the tank? somewhere else?

Cheers

Hi Gary
The positive feed to the pump goes through the inertia switch in the passenger footwell.
If you pull the connector off, this will break the feed to the pump. One of the wires will come from the relay, the other goes to the pump. You would measure the resitance of the pump motor by prodding one lead into the connector on the wire that goes to the pump (pin number 2) and the other on a good earthing point.
This would not be a definitive test though, it may test OK but if it's seized up it will still blow fuses.
Paul

Cheers Paul that location did occur to me but I wasn't sure how it fit into the big picture :thumbs: