Mk1 Focus RS powered Puma, now going RWD, JWRC

Here's the 'how low' pics for sump and gearbox. Ignore the wet patch, the sump plug hasn't quite sealed in this pic and the oil hoses need tying back up to their bracket! Both of which are sorted now.





So far, so good, no oil leaks after sorting the sump

However, my heating is doing bizarre things! It keeps going cold unless I boot it! Is it the panel? Or is it a plumbing issue? Hmmm

I know the heater control panel has to have a tacho feed and I know this is correct because it comes from my Omex ECU and drives the standard rev counter there.

Need to do some investigation. Bit strange as it worked perfectly for 2 separate journeys but didn't work properly last night.

I'm guessing the HCV is ok as I can get cold and hot air when the heating worked on those 2 journeys.

moondustka said:

[post]351124[/post] I'm guessing the HCV is ok as I can get cold and hot air when the heating worked on those 2 journeys.

Click to expand...

I reckon so. I think you're right and still have a plumbing (matrix air-lock) problem.

You could try replacing the coolant expansion cap with layers of aluminium foil with a pin hole in them and held at the neck with cable tie trick. System is unpressurised obviously, water doesn't get out but air does. You have to keep a close eye on it all over a few days of driving, but I've had good success with that method with some 'impossible to clear' air-locks.

I'm sure there must be far more sophisticated methods though.

Thanks for that Frank.. On that note, I have removed the 'squiggly' pipe from HCV to heater matrix and got another (what is almost) standard 90 elbow. I wonder if that squiggly pipe is actually there for a reason :roll: after all we know that Ford don't do things unnecessarily, i.e. use a longer hose that consists of more rubber and surely costs more to produce.

I think you are on the right track here. As it is quite far from the pump, I would guess that it relies more on natural circulation forcing the hot water to go up and your elbow migh just be to much of restriction there. When you boot it, the pump builds up the pressure and the temperature goes up as the thermostate is open fully and that creates enough of a pressure difference to force it through and your heating starts working

Thanks for your input Sinisa.

It is strange, when I got the car back together the heating was like this. Then after it went on the dyno it fixed itself (obviously the dyno is a lot of full range revving and was over a 3 hour period). I'm wondering whether that squiggly pipe helps, as you say, the water rise out of the heater matrix or because of the way it's curled, help prevent air locks.. :-? (I think the squiggly pipe is on the way back out of the heater matrix, need to check)

Ok so out for another drive in this morning's sunny weather :grin: and I have found the following with the heating:

Can get some hot air from the blowers if left on fan speed 1.

If I turn it to fan speed 2/3 I get less hot air (obviously the fan is cooling it down). Forget fan speed 4 for the moment!

When I got the car back to the garage I had it idling.. And although heater control panel fully turned to hot, the air from the blowers was very luke warm. Turned fan speed to 2 and 3 and it was like the control panel was set fully cold.

So, I went to check the hoses into the heater matrix, after the HCV. Both hot! One marginally hotter than the other but both hot nonetheless.

At this point I am confused.com

In short,

Both hoses to HCV hot,
Both hoses after the HCV hot.

Now, as already said, I have had a couple of journeys where the heaters were hot, even on fan speed 4.

So, is this an air lock?? Is it something wrong with the heater matrix, is it something wrong with the heater control panel or is it a physical plumbing issue (which I doubt as both hoses are hot?

A bit stumped! But will carry on thinking :|

Sounds like an air lock or blockage to me Ben. Have you tried briskly squeezing the radiator hoses when the engine's hot? Sometimes that can dislodge air locks.
Barry

Hi Barry,

I think you're right - the more I think about it the more I think it's air in the heater matrix (which is why I think that squiggly hose is there). Hot water is probably only flowing through part of it.

I have remembered that after the dyno and the journey's where the heater was hot, I dropped the coolant again to change the thermostat. And although I re-filled and massaged the hoses, there's probably still air in there.

I might drop the coolant a bit, change that hose back and see from there.

Thanks,

Ben

I dunno if it helps at all but whenever I've had an irritating air lock I run the car up to temperature and then crack off the lid on the reservoir (just one twist, i dont fully remove it). I cover my hand obviously. Sometimes the sudden change in pressure can suck stubborn bubbles through. I do it a few times.

Yup, I run up it up to temp with the cap off, massaging hoses before and after the thermostat opens :wink:

Usually works and gets the air out of the system, but obviously I'm getting it stuck in the matrix. (I do always have it on hot when trying to bleed air out)

Hi Ben
I wonder if the heater rad is blocked? Perhaps try disconnecting the HCV and putting a hosepipe on one of the heater rad pipes and gently blowing it through????? Might be worth a try.
Barry

Yup, that's not a bad shout! Can do that when I change the hose back over.

I just think it's worth changing the hose. The more I think about it the more I think Ford wouldn't put a weird hose in there if they didn't need to, and the other one fits!

Could someone tell me which side has the 90 on and which side has the squiggly hose on?! Just to make sure!

Thanks

As you look into the engine bay from the front of the car the wiggly hose is to the right of the HCV.

tuonokid said:

[post]351254[/post] As you look into the engine bay from the front of the car the wiggly hose is to the right of the HCV.

Click to expand...

Lovely, thanks Barry.

Ok, so it appears that some cars have two 90 elbows and others have one 90 and one squiggly hose.

I'm wondering whether newer Pumas/Fiestas have the squiggly hose?

P.S. I know Google shows me which hose is where but wanted confirmation froma reputable source (Thanks again Barry)

Some differences between models amazes me, would love a passenger ride in this when I see it in the flesh if its not out the question matey?

grayfox said:

Some differences between models amazes me, would love a passenger ride in this when I see it in the flesh if its not out the question matey?

Click to expand...

Of course

You're not actually that far from me either?

So, this update isn't going to be a good one...

It seems this engine that Dan had rebuilt, maybe wasn't so well rebuilt. It's dying and although the power is still there, it's looking like oil is getting past the piston rings because it's pluming smoke on overrun. There is oil on top of the pistons if you take the plugs out. Very doubtful that it's worn valve guides or stem seals as there is no smoke on startup (which would get better when warm). I thought it was a breathing issue but I think that was wishful thinking as everything seems clear.

Speaking to the tuning place I go to, the guy there said it's common in the Ford world for people to rebuild engines with too big tolerances and in doing so effectively building worn out engines from the word go.

Anyhow, I hadn't bought tickets for Ford Fair this year (first time since 2012) because I wanted to make sure the car was right. If I'm still to make it I need to get a bottom end rebuild on this engine pronto!

Nothing like going backwards :-(

I really don't want to miss another Summer of driving and another season of shows and meets etc.

P.S. Need to a rob a bank! :lol:

Oh no!!!!