Well I am baffled, I replaced the offside front top mount and bearing, and the drop link.
Still making noises at low speed. :fists:
Any further ideas?
Thanks, David
I wimped out and had the front bearing replaced by my local Tyre World in Kenilworth who charged £185 which wasn't too bad. The did say getting the old bearing out was indeed a PITA!
Still clunking - the guy at Tyre World said replace drop link ('cos it's easy), but I reckon it must be the top...
I replaced both drive shafts and the problem is still there. Maybe rumbling is an alternative description if that helps.
Has anyone got any suggestions as to what the problem might be? I'm baffled :-(
David
If anyone had broken/is breaking a Puma I'm looking for the small square(ish) piece of carpet that covers the bolt head for lowering the spare wheel carrier.
Please reply on this thread or by PM
Thanks
David
My 1.7 Puma (MY2000) has the 9 spoke wheels for which the caps are FINIS 1064115 (98AB1000AA).
Will FINIS 1134286 (2M511000AA) also fit these wheels or not?
Does anyone know of any suitable after-market parts that fit?
Thanks
David
The Torque setting for the Front Hub nut is shown as 290nM in the "Puma torque settings and general info" thread.
This is correct for the FRP, but not the regular 1.7 VCT for which the correct torque is 270nM (199 lb ft)
David
To fit the 9 spoke 6J x 15 wheels (MY2000 1.7 VCT).
The original FoMoCo ones always seem to go manky after a while and £28 for a set every year or so doesn't sound great (if they are even available any more).
Are there any better ones to be found?
I've ordered a pair of drive shafts from J&R. I removed the OS drive shaft this afternoon. The inner CV of that was not in the best condition, but it appears that it is the NS inner CV that's the source of the noise.
The annoying thing was I needed to buy an impact wrench to undo one of the...
The noise appears to be coming from front off-side, and is more noticeable after a driving a mile or so.
We took it to the stealership who had it for a couple of days and eventually did find a fault which was a sub-frame bolt that had worked loose ( :shock: )! So they torqued it back up, and...
Remote key lost somehow not long ago. This is for 2000 vintage car so it's a wireless remote.
Local dealership wants £180 plus labour to reprogramme.
What alternative sources of supply that can supply a key that a) works as a remote and b) as a key to open locks and start the car (so will...