Interior & drivers door mirror are sold, most other parts available

Now sadly being broken!
See For Sale thread

Edited to BREAKING, mods please move if this should be somewhere else?

My Puma Black needs a new home. Sadly I think the best outcome is for me to break it. I’ve owned this since late 2008, it was my daily for the first couple of years, however was used by one of my parents since around 2010. Exterior is a bit scabby, rear arches are rough, paintwork hasn’t had a lot o...

From a Fiesta Zetec-S, but unless you are suffering from a really stiff rear, i.e. excess oversteer, then I wouldn't bother. Stiffening up the front on a FWD car typically leads to understeer, which you probably don't want.

No problems with changing ECU's, but try to get a TAPE ECU with two key transponders. Otherwise you will have to wait until you get the FRP map put on to get your keys to work. Fitting is easy, drill out 2 rivets holding ECU cage in place, remove cage, unbolt plug from old one, open the plug up a bi...

Have a read through my project thread, many of your answers are there, however in summary; 1. My Puma is a 2002 model with two hego/lamda sensors. I understand this is why the FRP map cannot be installed on my ECU as the FRP only has one sensor but does it mean that I cannot have my ECU mapped at al...

Why would I need custom driveshafts? Wouldn't using the 2.0 EcoBoost just need the driveshafts made for that model of engine? 2.0 EcoBoost is an evolution of Duratec HE, there are no "plug & play" driveshafts for a Duratec HE in a Fiesta Mk4/5/Puma. It is possible that the Fiesta ST shafts could wo...

Structure of both is the same, biggest expense when converting to FRP, aside from bodywork, is the steering gear, longer lower arms, track rods, drive shafts (though you would probably be looking at custom driveshafts anyway for a Duratec HE based engine...)

Are you talking about front or rear? On the front, the outer arch is obviously different, and the seam in the top of the arch is flattened. Arch liner is larger and made of two standard liners. At the rear, the original arch / quarter panel was removed with the FRP rear quarter fitted in its place. ...

Scott - was yours the melina with an Evo bonnet and white wheels? For some reason I had in mind that yours was silver, otherwise I would have come over and said hello!

1.4, 1.6 or 1.7?

There should be a 4 letter code, like MUFF, TAPE, DIVE, or similar, you ideally need an ECU with the same code. You will also need the two key transponders to go with the new ECU.

Looks like you could have done with a touch more pressure in the front tyres?

Top effort, nice effect

I put my scangauge in a modified ashtray assembly, think I still have it if you want it?

I expect you have two lambdas on your car, one before and one after the catalytic converter. The one before measures the cars emissions and alters the fuelling - if this one fails the car may run poorly, and you may get a petrol smell due to overfuelling. The second lambda is there to check that the...

You would also need the electronic levelling system, as this is also part of the homologation.

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=6303" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

There is a modification guide stickied on one of the sections, where I provided some info on rear disc conversions, there was also a more detailed article in the Wiki on pumapeople. Have a read, then you want to know anything else, just ask. I did it on mine, but only really for cosmetic purposes.

Later beam = +10mm / side
Rear discs = +14mm / side

Given that it is a track car, you should certainly consider a FRP gearbox (not that I am biased...), the shorter final drive would help to keep the car in it's sweet spot. If you want one, let me know.

If it is cheap enough, and most importantly well repaired, then don't worry, but it needs to be cheap - you will struggle to sell it on, and may even struggle to get it insured. Plus in the event of another write-off, your payout will be quite low as it is on VCar.

Then you aren't doing it properly. Make sure that the trip button stays held down from ignition pos 1 until well after the engine is started.

Looks like you must need the later head unit then, sorry!

Oh dear, I would try different pins on the third plug to see if that makes any difference. I am pretty sure it should work somehow, though if you do need to get hold of a later headunit, they do have a better power output!