Check if the 1.4 has ABS. Master cylinder is different between ABS and non-ABS cars - the latter has a check valve for rear brake lines to stop the rears locking under heavy braking. You may need to swap the whole ABS pump, servo and master cylinder over. Then run the abs wheel speed sensors from ea...

The bin bags are garbage. Took mine out. If the polythene splits it's full of spongy bits and it'll just suck in moisture. Typical Ford cost-save NVH measure! If you are in deep enough to access these (as in seats and trim removed etc) give it a good squirt with rust proofing goo. It's important to ...

I tried to attach but it bombed out, I'll try again.

Think I got a pair of lower arms for less than £30, they were new old stock (Motoquip, not OEM). A good garage ought to be able to fit them inside a couple of hours. Whereabouts are you, I might be able to do the work for you?

OK chaps I'm abandoning this white wheels project, and it's annoying because I've sank quite a few quid into these. Basically I bought the Excel rims and tyres to make a straight swap with the standard 195/50/15s so there would be no speedo nonsense, so the OD is almost identical. However, the offse...

I don't know of any functional difference between the two types, I guess it's easier to stick with what you've got. However if you are going to change it would be a good opportunity to change rear beam axle bushes. If you wanted to future-proof I guess you could choose whichever has best spares avai...

I've spent maybe £800ish on the car to start with, £2k on bodywork/welding, and easily another £1k on mods/repairs/improvements etc. As it stands it's not an economical proposition, realistically if I could find a buyer today I might get £2k or £2.5k back. Hopefully the market will improve and I may...

Pics look a bit odd to me. Like their photography car had a bad paint job and it's been through the Photoshop mill. Re: oil, I've always followed the WSS recommendation which is the Ford minimum standard. Given our cars are 20+ years old, most oils meet or exceed this spec but it's worth checking. F...

I'm lucky enough to get Practical Classics handed to me as a mate subscribes so I get them after he's finished. Anyway they've got a Puma buyer's guide in November issue. I'd say there's not much in there we don't already know, although the advice about not using synthetic oil is new to me (anyone h...

Believe only millennium and thunder had leather, I don't think it was an option on non specials but I could be wrong. Mine is also steel blue with recaros but I retro fitted them, it had grey cloth as standard.

Do the door card inserts front and rear match the seat material?

Yep I've bought some gasket paper which I use for things like this but to be honest it's barely any different to a cornflakes packet!

I have MK4/5 Fiesta steering wheel in mine. Instead of the perforated leather sections at 3 and 9 o clock, mine is just plain leather all the way around.

If you're doing this you need to keep the original clock spring which is just a push/click fit into the centre of the wheel.

Which state in USA? Puma won't last long in NY, MA etc because of their salty winters. Arizona on the other hand would be perfect!

Yeah £390 isn't right, it should be £39. Mine isn't a perfect fit but certainly didn't need any bending. Saying that, I'm not using much of the centre part as I've got my own DIY catalyst and pipes there

This is the centre bit. It says for 1.6 & 1.7 though, I don't know if 1.4 uses a smaller system?

Hoffman do a nice centre silencer delete and a back box they call 'race tube' but it's pretty subtle and not too noisy at all. From memory about £70 for both. They are not stainless but mine seems to be lasting ok. I got mine on eBay.

That power steering pressure switch is also known to cause idle problems. From memory it's at the front of the car, right hand side, at the bottom. You'll need to raise the car to see it. The wiring is quite exposed and can fail. I think the switch tells ECU to give it more beans when pressure is to...

The boot latch motor is failing. Mine was the same, only released after 2 or 3 presses. I bought a 2nd hand replacement from eBay and hunted around - it's used on other Ford models. Puma ones seem hard to find. But mine was from maybe a Fiesta VI or something? Note - you have to remove the rear bump...

This does raise an important issue: how do we get an 'agreed value' certificate for our cars? I've had to do this with other cars, usually involves sending pics to owners club and paying for a certificate. Does this site count as an owners club and if so how would we go about issuing valuations and ...

Resurrecting this thread... does anyone know how to get at/change the air con drain pipe? My car is dribbling condensation into the driver's footwell so my pipe is obviously blocked.

What is 'microbore' pipe?

It's heartening to see the value for this car, but I would demand to see the car up on a ramp before handing over £3500. It would have to be completely rot-free for that money. One would hope the dealer has that facility. From the pictures it seems to have front and rear mudflaps which is good news ...

Another vote for 9 spokes. IMHO they're also easy to clean...

I've got a grey check pattern one if you need it, I'm in Midlands

Hi, I could do with front and rear bumpers from this, what sort of condition are they? If they're OK I'll think about how I can collect. Thanks for thinking of fellow Puma people, very generous of you.