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Regards 1.6 EcoBoost retro fit, what are you doing about dash, fuel pump/tank (returnless and Pwm control), rad fan(pwm module) Ecu takes speed from abs module via can bus. There’s two can busses HS and MS. Have you got a wiring diagram for the 1.6 EcoBoost ? That would probably help loads...

The FIA will sell you homologation papers for the S6100 Puma wont be cheap though!

Im sure you can get it keyed somehow

interesting to see what happens with this

9097743

Quaife do a 5.08:1 crown wheel and pinion set, not seen anything lower than that

didnt the turbo conversion come with a turbo ? :roll:

gas is addictive :grin: , not so keeping the bottles filled :twisted:

who knows what will happen with future MSA rules - I can see them life'ing HANS devices / tethers in the not too distant future!

whys that ? AFAIK SA2010 and SA2015 both have the same end of life according to the blue book - and both allow user fitment of hans posts

Its worth removing the paint from the alloys where the wheel nuts touch seat - I've seen it happen more than once where freshly painted and torqued up wheel nuts loose once the paint softens due to heat generated on track.

Totally depends on what other mods you have done to your engine

id be wary of making the rear beam stronger, instead of just bending the bear which is easily replaceable you will end bending the shell / bear mounting points. Ditto with front wishbones. Is it worth taking a spare rear beam on single venue type events ?

Use a hot air gun and scrapper to remove the dead rubber from your soft tyres :twisted: Keep the soft tyres for when its cold or wet. 8-)

MAF sensor ? or bad ECU / loom connection ?

DZ03G in R1 compound ?

Is it worth doing a smaller / cheaper event first to iron out any silly issues ?

Do you really think so ? Theres a good reason why this sort of cage is not legal for any form of proper motorsport by the MSA. Dont forget to tell your insurance company you have a show "cage" installed

Probably very common mod on real race / rally cars at a guess

another option is to reprofile the inner arch to remove the seam that is causing the tyre damage - think plasma cutter and welding a low profile filler back in place