ElDude at Allison Automotive
Active member
As many will know already I've been taking a fair few engines out recently and uncovering a few cans of worms :lol:
I thought it about time to go bit more 'public' with my little operation and share the info a bit more widely.. (new website soon)
Ok so here goes...
Firstly, I don't do a 'cambelt change'. When you look at the amount of issues that are staring you in the face when you start work on the engine the cambelt is actually the least of the problems that need sorting, and in fact, most of the cambelts I have taken off so far have all been in excellent condition (visually). As I've mentioned in other posts, the cambelt itself is a pretty robust item and does not just fail randomly when it reaches a certain age (like people seem to think). Failure usually occurs when someones 'messed with it' and finished it incorrectly tensioned OR something else has gone wayward like a pulley bearing gone etc etc... SO, my point is.. A timing belt replacement on it's own (regardless of whether your doing the water pump also) is in my opinion a complete waste of time and money.. On all the 1.7's I have seen, the crank seals are leaking, the cam seals are leaking, the top cam cover weeps in the usual places and also the inlet system is plastered in oil and the positive crankcase breather valve is in desperate need of replacement....
So this is what I offer as an engine service:.....
Kind Regards
Chris Allison
Allison Automotive Limited
Engine Service
Stage 1
Remove Gearbox and exhaust manifold, separate Air-con compressor (retain in position)
Remove Engine
Inspect condition and ‘feel’ of belts and Pulleys (Idle pulley, Water pump, Aux Tensioner, Alternator) replace as necessary
Remove ALL exterior Engine parts incl. studs etc - clean down the engine thoroughly
Complete Inlet removal – clean oily residue around the inlet and ports
Remove power steering bracket and pump – clean down
Remove both sump sections – clean out old sealant (THE most annoying job ever lol!)
Remove oil pump - Change front and rear crankshaft oil seals
Re-seal both sump sections using Wurth Sealant – use new bolts to re-fix
Replace camshaft seals
Replace Cam Tensioning system incl. Belt and spring loaded tensioner, re-time using SPX cam positioning plate, loosen off both cam pulleys and re-tension using Torque wrench
Set bottom Pulley Stretch bolt to 40Nm + 90 Deg (by Hand) (Bottom pulley removed and installed using correct SPX tooling)
Renew Engine Oil and Gearbox Oil – Renew Coolant (Ford 10 year Advanced) -
install new Top cover Gasket
Install new Plugs
Inspect condition of clutch and concentric slave bearing (recommend replacing at least the bearing if it’s old – Drive shaft oil seal also)
Inspect Front crankcase breather box – replace valve – re-seal back to block
Check condition of Coolant housing and coolant temp sensor (just underneath Coil Pack) clean and remove corrosion – reface – re-fit
Remove Coolant thermostat housing– clean mating face and re-seal back - fit new Thermostat
Re-assemble everything back to car and test!
Stage 2
All of the above incl.
Removal of cylinder head – full head clean and valve removal
Clean valves – replace valve stem oil seals – ‘lap’ valves back into head and seat
Install new head gasket and bolt kit
Painting option available on both levels of servicing at extra cost of £110
(sump sections cleaned and painted separately and re-attached with new fixings)
Other parts to consider restoring
Gear Linkage pole
Driveshaft inspection – re-pack joints and renew intermediate bearing
Heater Control Valve
Clutch
Coolant hose upper and lower to radiator
Engine Mounts
Fuelling sensors – Air Flow – Oxygen sensor etc
thanks.
