No power above 2000rpm. *not* below....

ProjectPuma

Help Support ProjectPuma:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Sound. It sounds like it's blowing when opening the throttle.

I realise that fault code is for the purge thingy, but the pipes look good on it (it's the one on the bulkhead beside the brake master cyl, yes?).

It may be the purge valve being faulty caused the cat to die, unless the purge valve also would cause extreme loss of power on throttle - and I mean 'can barely climb a motorway slip road' loss of power, not some little misfire (it's not misfiring at all as far as I can tell)
 
StevenRaith said:
Sound. It sounds like it's blowing when opening the throttle.

I realise that fault code is for the purge thingy, but the pipes look good on it (it's the one on the bulkhead beside the brake master cyl, yes?).
Yeah, it's this stuff - http://workshop-manuals.com/ford/puma_1998_06.1997-12.2001/mechanical_repairs/3_powertrain/303_engine/303-13_evaporative_emissions/description_and_operation/diagnosis_and_testing/removal_and_installation/evaporative_emission_canister_purge_valve/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Only a theory, of course, but I'm working on the idea that you can play the DTC codes like a game of Mastermind (black/white pegs, etc) In other words, we have P0443 which could be something or nothing, but where are the DTC lambda error codes here if something else?

In addition, a test run with Torque (Google Play app for a code reader) would give a live display of what all the relevant sensors are actually doing under real conditions.

To rule out that purge valve stuck open idea (would give hissing and cause vacuum leak, esp under load), I don't think that you would have to do anything more than remove the engine side vacuum hose and let it vent to air (not for long, mind), block off tube and test run.

Good luck and I'll be watching the resolution of this one with interest.
 
Well, cat replaced - had some fun getting it back on again; he put it in with new studs and couldn't get the gasket to seal. I dropped in on him this morning and test drove it (he knows I know what it's like, he just knows it got to 80mph on the road) and other than being loud etc, it felt pretty good.

So he then dissassembled the whole lot again, managed prise the old gasket out (As the new one was knackered - he reckons he must have accimangled the fitment first time around, not impossible and it'll happen!), get it to seal properly, and replaced all the didgy studs etc with decent locked bolts.

He's coming out to pick me up tonight, and I'll pick the car up. Then I can have some beer!

I'll have a fiddle with the ODB sensor, I know what you mean about the voltages; I noticed that both O2 sensor readings were all over the shop, as I understand it, the first reading (reactive) should be wavering as it adjusts rich/lean in realtime, and the second reading should be fairly steady if it's working properly, otherwise the sensor could be shot.

I'll have a look at the fuel trims too - some research required but the engineering behind it is pretty straightforward as I understand it....
 
It's back, it pulls hard to the redline, it crackles on the overrun slightly in 3rd, 2nd and 1st just like it should ;)

Think we still have a minor leak around the cat (and I think I have a CV going), but my poor mechanic is sick of being under my car and is off for a long bath and a big gin and tonic :grin:

I'll have a fiddle with the ODB tomorrow - now it's beer and pizza time.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top