Rear arches

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Gumster

New member
Joined
Dec 10, 2021
Messages
5
Hi All,

I have recently bought an 02 plate 1.7 Puma. There is minor bubbling around the rear wheel arches, but other than that the car is in reasonably good condition. I am looking to get the bubbling resolved before it gets worse and have seen wheel arches for sale with Expressed and Puma-Schmiede:

https://www.puma-schmiede.de/shop/Puma-MK1-Radlauf-Ersatzbleche-hinten-2st

https://www.steelpanels.co.uk/products/ford/puma-97-2002/body-side-puma-97-2002/rh-arch-pus7/

I have seen some people on these forums have bought from the above sites, but just wanted to know if anyone has any feedback. Are the arches from these companies going to be much of a muchness, or is one product likely to be better than the other?

Any feedback / thoughts appreciated.

Many thanks,

Richard
 
How bad is the bubbling? Can you post a pic of it? Those above, which I no experience of, look like a drastic course of action if the archges are not that bad! I had ground rust out, treated it and filled it then sanded, with spray can and then lacquerer with reasonable results (£30 in materials vs £400 for a body shop to do the same thing).
 
I used Peugeot 206 front wings as donors for rear arches. Well, I supplied them to a body shop who cut, welded, filled and painted them.

Can't speak for the parts you've mentioned, but 206 front wings were very cheap, £20ea or so I think.
 

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Thanks both,

I'm not able to post images, but the bubbling isn't that bad. I think you're right and at this stage it may be best to ground out the rust, treat and fill etc. I just heard that filling can attract moisture, so further rust is likely to come back sooner.

Thanks for your comments and taking the time to reply. Much appreciated.

Many thanks,

Richard
 
Thank you, yes I can. Now attached.

Would you recommend sorting these now to stop the bubbling / rust getting worse? I understand that rust can take hold pretty quickly in Pumas.

Thanks again
 

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Hi.
Best way without plating is to grind off paint, treat the rust with kurust or similar inside and out. tap the rusty area lower than surrounding body work. DO NOT USE FILLER as this soaks up moisture use something similar to this.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/264845199651?hash=item3daa010923:g:b10AAOSw-u9fR3UM
This will stop moisture from the outside. You will have to take preventative steps on the inside after removing rear trim panel. After insuring that the rust has also been treated on the inside coat with rust protection similar to Waxoil to ensure that there is no moisture ingress.
Happy sanding.
Regards
Richard.
 
I've used waterproof filler in the past with some success on my classic Mini scuttle panel. But as said you must cut out the rust, use a rust converter, then I use a zinc primer, before preparing for paint Also of course the seam behind the rear trim must be treated. I normally use Bilt Hammer products as they get excellent reviews.
 
I’m sure you know but mud tends to collect on the inside of the wheel arch and retain moisture to the rear of the rusty area. Make sure this is all as clean as possible.
 
Hi, like many owner of puma we have this problem ....

I removed most rust as I can from outside and inside.
I think this problem is caused by the shape of the outer and inner metal, 2 metal plate are weld to make the body in this area.
This problem made water retention and the final result is rust.

Thats why I make a hole in the inner metal to let the water going out.
After I put some mastic and special rust paint called "minium" in france.

Have a nice day.
 

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The problem is not from outside but from inside ... when its appear, its mean that from inside you have many rust ...
 
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