RPM wobble and stuck high

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Hi, could it be the Air Intake Control valve, increasing revs, doing what it's told to do by the Power train Control Module, to compensate for loads applied to the engine?
Richard said he was on a long hill in stop start traffic, so was the engine hot and the radiator fan kicking in often? Was Aircon on, working radiator fan a lot, or when magnetic clutch kicking in? Was the hill bending slightly, so power steering slightly turning the car?

All of these could get the PCM to make the AIC valve increase revs, but could just be overdoing it, especially if there's any frayed wires to any of the relevant sensors.

I made this earlier post re faulty wiring to the PAS HP sensor and Aircon magnetic clutch:-
The Air Intake Control valve (AIC) mentioned can be cleaned out with Air Intake & Carburettor spray to provide a smoother idle, acceleration and compensation for accessory load on the engine speed (power steering, brake booster, aircon, etc.). If you take it off (NOT remove it permanently!), it's probably best to re-fit it with a new sealing gasket, to prevent any unwanted air leaks into the inlet manifold. A little bit expensive from a Ford dealer for a small piece of waxed paper, but it does have what looks like silicone sealant around both sides of both port holes, presumably to give a good air-tight seal.
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I cleaned the original AIC valve on my Puma 1.7 years ago, as it was getting very jerky and balked when slowing down and the revs dropped through about the 1,500 rev mark! The spray got loads and loads of black crud out of it and I did follow online advice to replace the gasket. It definitely made a good improvement to smooth running for quite a few years.
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If anybody uses this spray USE GLOVES AS IT IS A VERY AGRESSIVE DEGREASING SOLVENT AND WILL REMOVE THE OILS OUT OF THE SKIN ON YOUR HANDS, ETC. (from a lifelong lilywhite handed office worker!)!
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The AIC valve is quite surprising, as although it is quite small, it can actually provide enough bypass of air passed the throttle body butterfly plate, to boost the engine IDLE speed to over 4,500 revs - YES, over 4,500 revs at IDLE!!! I found that out when I eventually decided to replace the original a few years ago, with a new aftermarket one bought from THE popular online auction site. There is supposed to be an engine management computer (PCM) routine for recognising and setting up a new AIC valve for most cars, including the Puma (Goggle it to find out), but which didn't appear to work in my case. The replacement got taken off and the original put back on - no harm done!
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The AIC valve also results in (not causes) the infamous over-revving problem, apparently previously referred to on Puma forums something like the "Cruise Control Effect". That happened to my Puma, but that was down to two pairs of worn, broken, frayed wires for the power steering (PAS) high pressure sensor and the aircon magnetic clutch, which gave wildly incorrect signals the the Power Control Module (PCM), causing it to tell the AIC valve to "really boost those revs to stop the engine stalling!".
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These two pairs of wires were the only wires to exit the end of a semi-rigid plastic tube (harness) protecting them in the engine bay up to the location of the PAS HP sensor & aircon magnetic clutch. However, the end of this plastic tube unfortunately wore through the insulation of all four wires, breaking one of the aircon clutch wires (making that inoperative) and the shorting between them all caused the confusing signals to the PCM and the resulting over-revving!
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Just a thought to point out - has anybody else seen reports on this and other Puma forums of engines over-revving when the aircon is turned on? Just saying......
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Anyway, thanks to Ian at Pumabits, a few years ago, for splicing a new piece of harness with replacement connector plugs for the PAS HP sensor and aircon clutch, to replace those four failed wires. That completely cured the over-revving and even got my aircon running again for a while (along with a re-gas).
 
Hi.
Thanks for your in depth reply. Nothing electrical was on, the fan was not kicking in as the car was not up to max temp. The hill was straight.

Having owned and restored lots of 60s 70s and 80s cars they were very simple and trouble free and easy to troubleshoot and fix compared to modern cars. I have come to the conclusion that so many problems come to exist on modern cars due to unnecessary electrical systems. A thought went through my mind would it be possible to strip out electrical systems, such as abs, seat belt warning lights, hosts of sensors to make the car simple and trouble free. For example with my Vauxhall's, Mini's and Hillman Imps I would get the same mpg that I get out of my Puma so I cannot see the advantage of the engine management systems of my Puma.
 
Trigger does something similar. With engine revs high until I stop but tick over remains slightly higher than it should be.
I cleaned the idle control valve. Apparently there is a post regarding how to check the clutch switch and brake switch in the how to section but I can't find it. Unless I'm blind which is probably the case.
Also the cables going to power steering sensor can also cause erratic idle. I wiggled mine and the revs went up a fraction for a split second then never did it again.
 
Hi.
I have been under my Puma and checked the plug for the power steering it looked okay I gave it a good wobble about (technical term). I then found the switch on the clutch pedal and did the same. The result is that the car is now behaving almost normally a vast improvement, no more surging of revs.

Regards.
 
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