Drivers side brake pipe to servo broken how can I repair

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medic82

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Sep 8, 2017
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5
I have broken the main brake line on the driver side were the flexible hose fits how difficult is it to replace to the main brake servo thank you
 
It might be a bit of a pain but there's nothing to stop you replacing the line in 2 or 3 sections and joining them with flared ends and a union. That would make life easier if the routing is difficult behind the engine. I think if I was tackling it I would buy some copper brake line, flaring tool and a few unions so I could custom make it. Not sure on parts availability now, I did get a copper set of rears for £30 or so last year but not sure about fronts.
 
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ford-Puma-1997-2001-1-4-1-6-1-7-Front-brake-pipe-line-kit-2-piece/193133586465
 
Wow really? Where's 'here' Coyote? Must admit I thought they were a standard repair in the UK. Although I'm probably behind the times.
 
Grogee he's in Croatia

I know the TUV doesn't like copper lines but I think in the UK they are still ok.
 
I think there's a perceived risk of them cracking as they age. (From hardening and vibrations)
 
Copper is both weak and prone to work hardening and embrittlement over time. Its also untrue that's its not susceptible to corrosion because it most crtainly is.
Dont use copper.
The factory uses steel, stainless is also acceptable.
There are plenty of You-tube videos showing you how to fit tubing, and the tools and materials are readily available from parts stores. If you can access an undamaged portion of tubing, you can cut off the damaged section and just replace that, or you can try to pull the entire length out and replace it all, but depending on the specifics of that piece of tube, its usually next to impossible to get the factory pieces in and out without bending the hell out of them.
You could theoretically replace the damaged section with a piece of flexible stainless braided line as well, but it wont really be significantly easier, just more expensive and more difficult to find the right parts.
 
What you say is true of copper but here we almost exclusively use cupronickel, a much tougher alloy and very resistant to corrosion - hence its use in marine engineering. That's why I'm a bit confused about TuV not approving cupronickel for vehicle use.

Mild steel is a terrible material for brake lines! As anyone who has ever tried to remove one will testify. The rust expands then seizes the union and pipe together such that the pipe twists and breaks as you try to rotate the union. Manufacturers use mild steel because it is cheap and strong for the period of warranty (rarely more than 3 years).
 
grogee said:
What you say is true of copper but here we almost exclusively use cupronickel, a much tougher alloy and very resistant to corrosion - hence its use in marine engineering. That's why I'm a bit confused about TuV not approving cupronickel for vehicle use.

Mild steel is a terrible material for brake lines! As anyone who has ever tried to remove one will testify. The rust expands then seizes the union and pipe together such that the pipe twists and breaks as you try to rotate the union. Manufacturers use mild steel because it is cheap and strong for the period of warranty (rarely more than 3 years).

I agree with all of this, especially your fondness for CuNi, thats a great material for tubing but usually harder to find than stainless. I mostly only see CuNi used in industrial applications. Again though, even CuNi is subject to corrosion, especially if its not properly isolated from dissimilar metals which can get very difficult with brake lines. That's probably why its not used for vehicles.
However, Carbon Steel isnt all bad either. Steel factory brake lines will typically last for at least 15 years even in a snowy climate. Brand new steel lines on a 20 year old car will most likely outlive the car.
 

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