Puma Problems (key fob, knocking, alarm and er back seat!)

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QJP

New member
Joined
Dec 3, 2009
Messages
18
Hi folks. I've been a Ford Puma driver since 2002... I was hooked ever since I saw that Steve McQueen advert (damn advertising).

Anyway, I have a *small* list of issues I'd appreciate some help with. Most I beleive are niggles which are easy to sort out but I lack any mechanical skills in this department...

Here goes:

Firstly my key fob will not work remotely; it died about two years ago, presumably the battery had expired. Unfortunately the driver door lock had a physical fault too (that was a fun day :evil: ) so it was replaced. The battery was replaced in the key fob but since then the remote central locking and deadlocks will not work via the key fob.

Additionally I am also unable to set the alarm and deadlocks via the driver side if I turn the key fully anti clockwise and then full clockwise. It works fine on the passenger side. Sometimes the alarm will go off when unlocking with the key in the driver side door (this only seemed to start happening after the door lock was replaced). The only way to turn off the alarm off it to lock the car from the passenger side and then unlock it.

As a footnote, the door light does not work if the driver door is opened, yet works as expected if the passenger door is opened. Is this an electrical problem affecting the alarm, dead locks and door light on the driver side AND a problem with my key fob?

Secondly and hopefully slightly easier... I have a creaking passenger door. Any tips? :p

Thirdly! My Puma has recently developed a dull knocking noise when turning (mainly hard left) and the engine being under load. My Power Steering fluid levels are fine so is this either a CV Boot problem or worn brushes?

Fourthly the accelerator pedal seems to physically stick; I can feel it "click" up if I gently press it again.

Fifthly the speedo bounces sometimes... this is mainly aesthetic as I've driven the car long enough to know how fast I am going from teh engine noise and rev counter now, but it does vex me so!

Finally.... my missus managed to lose a very precious ring I bought for her. It was in a pocket on a long journey when she was sat in the back of the car. It is very unlikey to have dropped out when we were getting into the car, and there is a gap between the rear seat and the side of the car... perfect for a ring to fall between. I have tried to remove the seat myself; I can see some clips holding it in place but I cannot work out how to remove the seat without breaking them. Any ideas?

So, sorry for a not so small list but I'd appreciate any tips or advice you can spare.

Thanks!
 
Have you looked at the Frequently Asked Questions, 'How To' sections on the site, or through the individual forums?

1. Sounds like your key fob just needs reprogramming, there is a guide here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=39" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

2. Possibly something in the locking mechanism has come loose. You will need to get behind the door card and have a look. Or get a garage to.

3. The sensor switch is near the hinge. Can be replaced, but not really worth it IMO. Mine hasn't worked since I got the car, and the only issue it creates is I don't get the warning buzzer if I leave the lights on.

4. WD40 or grease in the hinge.

5. Driveshaft or CV joint if it's knocking on full lock.

6. Don't know.

7. We had a mondeo with the same problem, the previous owner had taken it back to ford on half a dozen ocassions, and still not found the problem. Could just be the speedo cable needs replacing, but not my area of expertise.

8. I'm trying to remember how to get the seat base out... IIRC you need to take the backs out first. The base then needs to be pulled at the front until it unclips (shouldn't break anything, it's designed to do that) then slide towards the back of the car to unhook it.
 
Cherie said:

My apologies, I should've done that first.

I've printed out the guide for the two button remote and I'll give that a whirl.

I'd forgotten about the warning buzzer, it's been that long since it worked... that made me smile :p I'm not sure if I feel confident enough to take the door apart, so I'll get my garage to have a look. I guess I was seeing two different problems afterall and muddling them into something bigger.

I am pretty sure I have some WD40 lying about, I'll give that a bash tonight.

The back seat... yeah the sliding backwards thing fits with the clips that I can just about see underneath it. I'll have a look at the backs but if it pops into mind, please let me know :)

Thanks for your reply.
 
Hi QJP,
The clips are only about a quid each from Ford, they are plastic with a moulded clip to hold into position and grooved inside to retain the loops on the bottom of squab.
Jon.
 
Well a little update.

The key fob and remote central locking are now sorted out. I followed the FAQ, got some batteries from Tesco's for about £5 and did the reprograming. It worked a treat and I am rather glad I told the Ford Dealership to nicely get stuffed when they offered to run it through a diagnostics machine for a fee of £100.

The Door Light and Light sensor were just down to some loose wiring which was fixed during an anunal service.

The knocking noise... well as luck(?) would have it, some fella reversed int my Puma and thankfully left his details. As his insurance was covering it, it went into a Ford Dealership bodyshop. Whislt it was there, I had it serviced too. I asked them to check out the noise and they said "Drive Shafts and £450 please". I've had my car in for its MOT today and my normal garage has said that the near side shock is dysfunctional and leaking fluid and may account for the knocking. They checked the drive shaft and couldn't see anything immediately at fault (nice one Ford).

The accelerator pedal. Well once I got my car out of its service I drove up North to see family for Christmas. We pulled off the M5 and the throttle was sticking open for about 5 seconds, revving up to 5k revs. I had this checked out by one of my Mum's friends who checked the TCU. He said this was fine and did some more checks. Eventually he said the Lambda sensor was faulty and could go no further with diagnostics until it was repaired but that it wasn't going to cause any issues driving home.

As it turned out, when I got home I sprayed the accelerator cable end with a bit of WD40 and it hasn't done it since. Yay.

Finally, yes I found the ring. It was under the offside cup holder :)
 
Awesome update, you must be pretty chuffed to have pretty much sorted 90% of your niggles with it!
 
do you have any idea were the loose connection was located for the drivers side door becausei have the exact same problem with my puma the buzzer dont warn me about the lights and doesnt illuminate inside the car when the drivers door is open only the passengers side ?
 
guys iv made a bit of a messup.

my fob wasnt working as i dropped it. i bought a new one and reporgrammed it using the tips here. but now i think iv armed the immobiliser and i cant start the car.

any tips?
 
you havnt programed the new fob for the immobilizer,you need 2 working keys not cloned keys to program another key,have a look in the how to section to do it :eek:k:
 
martinthrapston said:
you havnt programed the new fob for the immobilizer,you need 2 working keys not cloned keys to program another key,have a look in the how to section to do it :eek:k:
i only have 1 key for the car. stuck at work dying to get home but goosed the imobiliser.

is there anyway for me to reprogramme the immobiliser with just this one key?

if not is this something the AA could help me with?
 
no,it needs to goto fords so as they can reprogram another key for you,but its not cheap,do you have the other key and use that for now
 
martinthrapston said:
no,it needs to goto fords so as they can reprogram another key for you,but its not cheap,do you have the other key and use that for now
dont have any other key at all and im stuck at work. how much is it going to cost me?
 
An autolocksmith can do it for around half the price but I'm guessing you may have got it sorted by now as this thread was last posted on a few hours back now.

If you haven't got it sorted, if you can it would save you cash if you bought another key/fob or 2 as spares as they (Ford or Locksmith) will pretty much code all the keys for the one price then you would have enough spares to reprogramme future keys yourself as you need 2.
 
does not need to goto ford to have the key fob done. kats puma fob finally dies last week and i got a new fob off ford £54+vat and got it reprogrammed etc for £25+vat from our local auto electrician
 
First of all, sorry for not checking this thread sooner!

AaronPumaVCT said:
do you have any idea were the loose connection was located for the drivers side door becausei have the exact same problem with my puma the buzzer dont warn me about the lights and doesnt illuminate inside the car when the drivers door is open only the passengers side ?

The short answer is I have no idea mate. I asked the mechanic to have a look as part of my service. the reposne was that it had been fixed by tidying up some loose wires.

That said, one month later and the problem has come back in a slightly different form. Now whenever I attempt to unlock the drivers side door manually, it triggers the alarm. Also, the door light and lights on warning sound have gone back to being intermittent!

:|

The throttle is sticking again. Nowhere near as bad as it was originally, but enough to make changing down from fourth to third very bumpy. the car tends to idle in neutral from a cold start at about 1500 rpm, which is about 600 rpm more than it used to.

****ing car!
 
Cold start on a Puma isn't normal at 1500rpm. Normal is around 1300-1400rpm, very quickly dropping to around 1100rpm and then to idle at 850 +/- 50rpm.
The ECU handles the warming up process, there is no choke as such on a Puma.
 

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