Need some advice!

[adampuma]

Hey people, basicly i dont know what to do for the best, basicly
I have my normal 1.7 puma engine currently in my car on 50k
I bow have a frp spec engine in my garage with a frp inlet and genuine frp cams and a head that has been rebuilt by lms in april 2012 but the block has done 85k

I want to keep my 50k lump and just fit the frp inlet and cams, but do i need to do headwork if i am to fit frp cams to a normal 50k lump??
Also how hard is it to swap over inlets?

[adampuma]

Also may i add the 85k block is not frp, thr frp parts were added

[red]

Shouldn't be too hard to get them swapped over, dont think you should need any work if your engine is in reasonable condition already. Heads and blocks are the same for standard and FRP.

[PumaNoob]

The engines are identical, the actual block and head are the same, so if you wish to keep the 50k block, just put the FRP cams and inlet on it and its an FRP engine.

[adampuma]

I heard the inlet is a pain to fit? Can anyone cone to kent and help me fit it? I will buy you mcdonalds?! I mean KFC

[adampuma]

Oh i have decided what i am doing now, keeping the 50k engine in my puma and just adding the inlet, i will be selling the frp cams with the 80k engine to pay for my lms3 cams i have spoken to chris at lms and he said my 50k engine eill be fine with lms3 cams, so after that will just need a remap

[PumaNoob]

You missed a trick there pal, if you said KFC id have come to help, but im not a huge fan of McD's!

They arent too hard to fit, but the 10mm bolts are quite awkward to get to!

[adampuma]

Kfc*

[adampuma]

I heard the aux belt and alternator must come off, this does not fill me with glee :/

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

I heard the inlet is a pain to fit? Can anyone cone to kent and help me fit it? I will buy you mcdonalds?! I mean KFC

they're fine to fit..it's getting one off that's the arse!

there is literally only one type of spanner that will get to the bolt.. also depends how hard they have tightened that particular inlet, some are easier than others... the awkward bolt on mine was so tight I just rounded it and ended up having to drill through the gasket and use a riprocating saw across the bolt...frigging nightmare it was..

[Ian G]

Aux belt is the least of your worries, swan-neck long 13mm spanner on the tensioner and its off in a jiffy.

[adampuma]

Well the engine i am removing the inlet from in sitting in my garage so good for access

[adampuma]

So who's coming to help me? Theres a free harvester meal in it for you

[PumaNoob]

Lol I was only kidding mate, your about 120 miles away from me, if you were closer I'd be more then happy to help.

[adampuma]

Toby carvery?

[adampuma]

I done 340 miles on saturday, its nothing! Only took me 7 hours! Lol

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

you need this...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laser-Extra-L ... 3f294fd0cd" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

trust me..nightmare without it...piece of P** with it..

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

TBH the inlet is just not worth the hassle... it's a crap design.. makes the alternator bolt almost impossible to get to...it pulls the pipe at an awkward angle ontop of the oil separator valve...and it makes the diptube seal sit at the side of the entry and puts the whole tube at an awkward angle....

still want it..

[adampuma]

Yeah i still want it, will accompany my lms3 cams nicely, and if i decide i dont like it i will sell and get a lms inlet

[adampuma]

And thanks el dude, will order myself one of those