How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

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ScubaSteve
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How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by ScubaSteve » Fri Jul 29, 2011 8:09 pm

First off before you start this you want to make sure you know exactly what is involved before hand and have all tools and parts needed at the ready. Even though i researched across many different sites and guides beforehand I still tripped up in a couple of areas.

Also this guide is based on fitting a Quaife diff, which is made to exact Ford OEM measurements so is a direct fit, there may be more involved in fitting a different diff eg shimming etc.

Heres a list (based on my memory so dont blame me if i miss something out) of tools you need.

To remove box..

Tools
Jack - higher the lift capability the better
Axle stands
Blocks or bricks (or ideally another jack!)
Set of screwdrivers (large flat head helps)
13mm deep socket
13mm normal socket
32mm deep socket/hub nut socket (strongly advised but not essential)
Assortment of spanners ranging from 10mm-19mm
Assortment of sockets ranging from 10mm-19mm
T50 Torx bit
E8 Star Socket
Brake pipe crimp (some kind of locking plier or maulgrips will suffice)
Brake bleed kit - eg Eezi Bleed kit
Brake fluid, whatever DOT rating your car is currently using
Adjustable spanner
Crow Bar
Torque wrench capable of 265nm

Parts
Hubnut Ford p/n 6102936
2.8 litres 75w-90 Gearbox oil Ford Spec: WSD-M2C200-C - p/n 1045737 x3 = 3 litres

Gearbox Removal

If your wheel has a center cap pop it off and using a breaker bar and your 32mm deep socket
undo the nearside (passenger) hub nut only.

Jack car up as high as you can and support on stands

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Support here

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Remove wheels, and undo the loosened hub nut the rest of the way. Be sure to place the washer behind it somewhere safe.

Under car unplug Rad Fan connector and lever up the bottom plastic fan lugs until they pop
out, remove fan.

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Use the torx bit and 17mm spanner on the ball joint pinch bolt, do this both sides of car.

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Remove bolt

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Use something to lever the ball joint out the hub

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Nearside ONLY, remove the droplink bolt

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also the tie rod end bolt, pull back carpet and unplug abs sensor from top of wheel arch, unplug abs sensor wire at the various points.

Remove nearside caliper by undoing carrier bolts at the back

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Slide off caliper and tie up somewhere, not on the shock, spring or any of the hub assembley as this is all coming out.

Take the plastic cover off the nearside top mount in the engine bay. Undo the top mount nut.

Then whilst holding the whole lot up pull it away from the car so the drive shaft comes out the hub, you may need to tap driveshaft through.

Remove whole lot out the car and store somewhere

Use 10mm and 13mm sockets to remove battery and tray. Use flat head screw driver to remove air pipe and air box

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Back under car use suitable spanner on the detent shown, make sure you have a oil catch container underneath

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This will release MOST but not ALL oil.

Undo the nut on the linkage to selector and pull off (if stiff get in the car and push and wiggle the gearstick forwards until you feel it release off). Also undo nut on the adjacent stabaliser bar and tie both up out the way

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Undo the two bolts holding the roll resistor/bottom dog bone mount, and pull out

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Undo the two bolts on the offside (drivers side) driveshaft support bearing bracket, then remove.

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on the offside driveshaft simply pull the drive shaft out and tie away from the gearbox, it
comes out quite easily as there is no shaft circlip on the end of this side.

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On the nearside where you removed all the shock/hub etc, you need to get under the car and lever the shaft out completely, it will be stiff as its reatined by a circlip but using the crow bar with short sharp pulls it will come out, be careful with the oil seals though

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remove that driveshaft completely.

On the same side, undo the rear front bush bolt and remove the bracket under the box

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Back in engine bay, remove the black plastic breather plug, just pull it out

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Back in engine bay unplug the reverse switch at the front of the box, and the speedo sender near the back of the box, they are simple electrical push connectors.

Now i also advise to remove the reverse switch at the front of the box incase you snap it getting the box out, just use the adjustable spanner on the spanner part

Reverse switch is just up and left of the spanner here

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Now crimp the hydraulic line at the rubber part that goes the slave cylinder

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use a screwdriver on the clip where it goes into box and remove clip. Then pull out the line from the box and tie up somewhere

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Now support the gearbox with jack.

Undo the 3 bolts on the gearbox top mount

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And the two on the bracket

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Then use the E8 star socket to remove the threaded bars that the bolts went onto.

Now lower the box/engine using the jack until the end of it clears the subframe etc.

Support the engine with blocks/bricks/another jack.

Image

Now you need to go round the bellhousing and remove all the 13mm bolts.

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there are a grand total of 12, most of the bottom ones go in from engine side and most oftop go in from gearbox side.

Remember which went where and also remember which held on things like the earth cable etc.

Wiggle the box and lower slowly on the jack under the box until its out

Image

To refit you will need an extra pair of hands to guide box back in.

Is basically a reverse of refit but some advice.

Tip any left over oil in the box out through one of the driveshafts.

Put a small amount of copper grease on the input splines to stop it rusting to the clutch.

To get back in use a jack and ease into place slowly, when in position get some bolts in and tighten to get it to engage

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When everything is together bleed the slave cylinder by opening the bleed valve next to the
input line.

Use 8mm allen key socket to remove the fill plug at front of gearbox

Refill with 2.8 litres of fluid, i made a device like this

Image

Image

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Torque settings to follow are

Bell housing bolts - 44nm
Rear front bush bolt - 82nm
Ball joint pinch bolt - 52nm
Hub nut - 265nm
Last edited by ScubaSteve on Fri Jul 29, 2011 8:15 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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ScubaSteve
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by ScubaSteve » Fri Jul 29, 2011 8:10 pm

To Disassemble removed gearbox and fit diff..

Tools
Decent pair of external cirlip pliers
5th Gear puller - Ford Special tool 308-082, either borrow someones or buy from SPX

http://www.spxtools-shop.com/jlr/produc ... 18201.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; note that they dont sell

retail so you might be able to do what I did and make up a fake company.
Various torx sockets
10mm socket
13mm deep socket
Bearing press (or just take to local garage like I did)
Large flathead screwdriver
Sockets ranging from 10mm-19mm
Torque wrench capable of 115nm

Parts
New LSD eg Quaife
Top plate gearbox gasket - Ford p/n 6116183
5th Gear housing gasket - Ford p/n 1339302
Flange sealant, I used Loctite 510
Thread lock glue
Diff bearing - p/n 1063385
Diff bearing - p/n 1070470

Get a nice box or something to keep all the nuts etc in

First off, remove the nuts on the tin end plate

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Lift off the plate to find the 5th gear and synchro and selector

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Next up, loosen the two selector detents shown

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Try not to remove them fully as they contain small spring loaded pistons that you dont want to lose.

Remove the torx bit on the selector bracket

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and lift off

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Remove the two circlips one on top of the synchro the other on top of the 5th gear

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You can then remove the entire synchro assembley, just lift it out.

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careful to hold it all together though as it will seperate and the top plate of the synchro is loose and spring can fall out which is a pain to get back in. I stored it like this to keep it all together

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Then you will have this

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Use your 5th gear puller

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Wind it off, can be a bit stiff

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Withdraw the gear and keep safe

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Now you can lift the 5th gear housing off

Which will leave the input and output shaft top bearings which have two large circlips push the circlips round until the meet the bearings and use a screw driver carefully push the circlips off

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They spring MILES so maybe cover them with a towel when you do it.

Circlips removed

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Then go round the casing and remove all the 13mm bolts

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Then the casing can be seperated

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if its stiff go around and bang with a rubber mallet, also there are two gaps in the casing to lever with a screwdriver, but dont lever under any faces that meet as you will damage the gasket faces.

Removed

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Diff

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Left is the input shaft that goes into the clutch. Right is the output shaft that has a pinion gear at the base that meshes with the crown wheel and diff

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Remove the permanent magnet and put somewhere safe

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There are two circlips on the selector shaft that need to come off, just push them off with a pair of needle nose pliers

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The outer tube can then be withdrawn

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Then both input and output shafts can be lifted out, try and keep them as much together as possible, they may take a bit of wiggling as it gets stuck on parts of the selector mechanism

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Lift off the loose reverse gear

Pull out the OEM diff, called an open diff, as the gears are open, an LSD is usually an enclosed unit

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Differences seen here

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Case with everything removed

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You can see input shaft hole, out put shaft bearing (the shaft is used as a bearing race surface, diff race bottom left is selector mechanisms, and bottom is the H gate selector.

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Selector plates

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Speedo gear looks like this

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Easiest thing to do is take your new diff bearings to a garage and get them to press the new
ones on, note you will need to obtain the speedo drive gear off the old one and get it fitted to the new diff with the new bearings as it sits under one of the bearings. Its the brown plastic wheel you can see on the diff pics.

Just take both diffs + new bearings to a garage they will know what to do if you are unsure.

After you have had all that done you assembled diff will look like this

Image

Next you will need to remove all the crown wheel bolts off the old diff then slide off the crown wheel.

Offer up to the new diff and tighten up the crown wheel bolts to 115nm

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Ensure you apply thread lock to the bolts

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Crown wheel on

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Put diff in case

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Please note that if the race in the top half of the case comes out, there are two spring loaded washers underneath that need to be put back in like )( eg

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This ensures the diff is pre loaded and any play taken up

Make sure you clean up all mating surfaces

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Use a scraper and thinners to remove old sealant

Put the reverse gear back in

Now you need to manouvre the gears back in the case, jiggle them about until they slide under the selector mechanism etc

Slide the selector tube back in and push the circlips back on

When everything is back, apply the flange sealant around the casing as so

Image

Image

Before you put the casing back together, you need to make sure the reverse gear is lifted up by rotating the selector shaft clock wise, put a screwdriver in the reverse switch hold to hold the gear up and ensure the selector shaft doesnt rotate back round. If you notice in the above pic, the notch across the top of the selector rod is positioned horizontal like (-)

Thats how it needs to stay whilst you are putting back together else you wont be able to select gears!

Put top half of casing back on and tighten all the bolts to 33nm

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Put your large circlips back on

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and your new 5th gear housing gasket

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Slide on the 5th gear housing and do up all the torx bolts to 13nm

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Next up comes the fun, you can ideally take the box and the 5th gear to a garage and ask them to press it back on, or you can do what i did and put the 5th gear in the oven

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When very hot quickly, because it cools down quick, take it to your box and tap it back on with a lump hammer using a large socket over it to drive it on.

Back on

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then put the circlip that came off the shaft back on

Slide the synchro assembley back in, and also the selector clamp, dont forget to tighten the torx bit on the clamp and note the orientation of it in relation to the notch on the rod it clamps onto

Image

And put the circlip back on the shaft above the synchro assembley

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End plate gasket on

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End plate on and tighten bolts to 12nm

Image
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by red » Fri Jul 29, 2011 9:44 pm

That's a guide and some, great effort there!
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by yippeekiay » Fri Jul 29, 2011 11:02 pm

I'm not even gonna read it...don't need to. I know if I ever need to change the gearbox etc I'll come straight to this how to :ok:
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by slayllian » Mon Aug 01, 2011 3:18 pm

cheers steve, this is brill timing for me, just spotted this guide, need to remove my gearbox to sort my leak! :ok:
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by wilson002 » Sun Feb 26, 2012 9:11 pm

Hi scubasteve, just used this guide to take the gearbox out to change clutch and slave. I've refitted everything, bled the slave refilled the gearbox. but when I tested the clutch..it works fine but I'm getting a grinding noise and grease coming out of the driveshafts.Any idea? Have I missed something?
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by markc555 » Mon Apr 22, 2013 11:19 am

Excellent article, thank you for taking the time to document and post it :thumbs:

I'm suffering from the wobbly gearstick problem, it doesn't spring to the centre (3rd/4th) plain, and from what I've read it's likely to be the "bias spring" on the selector mechanism inside the gearbox. Despite the excellent pictures in this thread I can't quite work out exactly what part/component it is?

Would anyone be able to point out the offending part?

If it's located where I think it is I'll have to dissemble most of the g'box to get at and replace it.

Thanks

Mark
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by ElDude at Allison Automotive » Mon Apr 22, 2013 9:34 pm

it's sits at the bottom of the box (nearly)..lol..you only got to take everything out..lol :lol:

http://www.pumapeople.com/stuff/1351520 ... _53669.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by markc555 » Mon Apr 22, 2013 10:53 pm

el dude wrote:it's sits at the bottom of the box (nearly)..lol..you only got to take everything out..lol :lol:

http://www.pumapeople.com/stuff/1351520 ... _53669.jpg" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
That's what I thought. Bum :cry:

I still can't see the part in situ in the pics, but everything except the diff has to come out to get to it right?

It'd get a replacement g'box except FRP ones are few and far between.

I might have to live with the wobbly knob for a bit longer while I decide what to do.

Mark
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Re: How to: LSD installation (inc Gearbox removal and refit)

Post by ElDude at Allison Automotive » Tue Apr 23, 2013 7:51 pm

the selector gate is underneath the diff/crown wheel assembly..so you would need to pull that out..

all then is revealed :-)

recommend doing the clutch and release bearing at the same time unless they are less than year old...also change the box oil too..
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