how to prevent rear arch rust

i recently posted this on Puma People and at the request of Sw33t on there i am posting it here, pretty much i had heard about lots of pumas getting rust on the rear arches for no apparent reason and whilst doing my ICE install i noticed a small amount of rust on the inside of the car where the inner skin meets the inner arch, the small amount of treatment done by ford obviously was not enough and my only guess is that all pumas are like this?? so anyway i have put together a quick guide on how to prevent this only took me an hour to complete so is relatively easy if you know how to take a car apart and put it back together!

anyway on with the business...

first off, you will have one puma that looks like this:

NO RUST



One complete interior:



One stripped interior:



where the rear speakers were:



Look rusting from the inside!!!! good old Mr Ford using sh*te rust prevention





Then you need a big can of this:




What a mess i just caused in my garage lol but job done and it was very quick and easy, not as i had expected!!! still got to do the outside of the car (will be doing the arches in black hammerite and then more lovely waxoyl jsut to be sure anyway here are the after pictures.....

first you must heat the can for 30mins (i used 3 kettles worth of boiling water)



then simply spray in the correct areas

seam nearest speaker:



Above the arch:



arch at rear of boot:




Not many pictures i know but you get the idea, spray along the seam and all down in that hole, i will update at the weekend once i ahve done the outside

cheers

any comments questions etc are welcome!!

Good job!

If I ever get a puma that doesn't have rust there already, then I'll give it a go!

Got to be worth doing though if you've found yourself a good one.

Nice guide

Definitely something that I will be considering!

I also want to get a dent repaired so hopefully 2 birds one stone when the interior is out!!

The rear quarter trim, what is that like to remove?

that's what i though as its only an hour of my time (not as if im short of any spare time!!!) and if its works it works if not ive tried!! as soon as the weather clears up i will be coating the entire inside of the arches in the black hammerite under body stuff which also contains waxoyl to help prevent rust

the rear trim is a doddle, take out the rear seat back (4 bolts) literally pull up the bench section (2 clips then slide forward) then there are 3 bolts 3 clips for the boot wall carpet then just pull by the door and lift and there you have it !!!

you just cant be afraid to pull hard!!!

Are there any breakable plastic bits then like in the front door panels?

3 clips but they are different to the front door cards as they clip into metal not plastic and are much more substantial, (i had it out 5 times now and not broken one but break one every time i take off the door cards)

oh and with the speaker boxes once you un screw them you have to pull very hard form the bottom to get the bottom clip out but again just dont be afraid!!!

hope that helps

Yeah very much mate, I won't be afraid to give it a good tug now

red said:

I won't be afraid to give it a good tug now

Click to expand...

You are talking about clips yes Red?

:funny:

(Sorry - couldn't resist)

be careful of how you tug though... you dont want the trim to break as the trim is hooked onto the clips and if you are not careful, you might break the arm of the trim which hooks onto the clip.

Also take note that there are 2 metal clips/arms on the top near to the rear window which is use to clip the trim to the metal chassis.

ill have to get inside mine and have a look at the weekend its been kept in a garage since new so im hoping there isnt much but i have a feeling prevention is going to be key now it has to live on a drive

This is some great advice and help here, just quick question how easy was is to remove all the interior? Cheers

rikvdub said:

This is some great advice and help here, just quick question how easy was is to remove all the interior? Cheers

Click to expand...

A pig. The rear cards are also attached to the rear seatbelts. However, it has to be done to do the job properly.

Waxoyl (Dinitrol is better) is OK for the door cavities and the sills. But, the rear arches are so prone to rust, that they need better treatment. Trouble is, once you have used Waxoyl there you've buggered up your only chance to use proper rust curative treatments, like Vactan.

Here is why the rear arches are so prone to rust - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=338501#p338501" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And here is how to treat those areas - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=339476#p339476" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Most of the rear arches can be treated and then waxed using brush/pipette or aerosol with short 15cm extension tube. If you need to use a lance for the hard to access rear part of the arch, then tape a bolt to the head of the lance to add some weight to ensure that your lance is really closely following that arch crease.

Incidentally, access to the sills really is easy - lift out bottom door trim and wedge back carpet. Gently remove the 3 wiring loom clips and wedge loom back. You then have 3 pre-made slots on each side that you can get a lance into.

Hope that helps.

Frank said:

rikvdub said:

This is some great advice and help here, just quick question how easy was is to remove all the interior? Cheers

Click to expand...

A pig. The rear cards are also attached to the rear seatbelts. However, it has to be done to do the job properly.

Waxoyl (Dinitrol is better) is OK for the door cavities and the sills. But, the rear arches are so prone to rust, that they need better treatment. Trouble is, once you have used Waxoyl there you've buggered up your only chance to use proper rust curative treatments, like Vactan.

Here is why the rear arches are so prone to rust - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=338501#p338501" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And here is how to treat those areas - http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=339476#p339476" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Most of the rear arches can be treated and then waxed using brush/pipette or aerosol with short 15cm extension tube. If you need to use a lance for the hard to access rear part of the arch, then tape a bolt to the head of the lance to add some weight to ensure that your lance is really closely following that arch crease.

Incidentally, access to the sills really is easy - lift out bottom door trim and wedge back carpet. Gently remove the 3 wiring loom clips and wedge loom back. You then have 3 pre-made slots on each side that you can get a lance into.

Hope that helps.

Click to expand...

Thanks, This is a big help and ill let you know how I get on.

Anyone knows if there's a good product to put on the inner arch carpets of my Puma to make them better water resistant? I once saw something that you could put (spray?) on and it make the carpet like hard and waterproof.
Does it help a lot to keep more water out?

TylerB said:

[post]348752[/post] Anyone knows if there's a good product to put on the inner arch carpets of my Puma to make them better water resistant? I once saw something that you could put (spray?) on and it make the carpet like hard and waterproof.
Does it help a lot to keep more water out?

Click to expand...

http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=338501#p338501

Cool, might try that.
http://www.thompsonswaterseal.com/waterproofing-products/multisurface-waterproofers/clear-multi-surface-waterproofer