how to rebuild the puma 1.7 engine

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jacko

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Nov 24, 2007
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not done this myself but managed to have it done easily enough....

pumaspeed have flowed the head (£550ish) and replaced the valve stems (£124!!!)

local place is rebuilding and balancing the bottom end, details to follow

so far no one has had any problems sourcing parts etc, just don't seem to be as cheap as other engines!
 
head is back, pretty happy although theres still swarf everywhere....whoever does jamsport / pumaspeed heads doesnt get 10 / 10 from me. only used them as my normal guy is very busy.....cos he's so bloody good....

we'll see how well it performs.....

get the block on fri
 
In 2014 i dedectet on my Puma that the exhaust valves from the zylinder 4 are leaked but the Engine was still running fine. But i'm a Mechanik and it has not left me alone. So i decide to rebuild the whole engine in January 2015 because it had 260T Kilometer. After 7 months the engine was running smoother then ever bevore. Thanks fine balancing the crankshaft. My english knowing is not good enoug to complet descripe here how I've done it. But if someone has a Question i will be happy to help.
 

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Standley90 said:
[post]353338[/post] My english knowing is not good enoug to complet descripe here how I've done it.

Do you have talk about this somewhere in your native language ?
 
Yes i asket a question about the torque of the bolds from the crankshaft bearing in the german puma forum but they make bad jokes over me. So i make the decision that i will only tell my experience wit people who appreciate that. I will never tell my knowledge about this engine in a place where everyone can see. But everyone who ned help or information can ask me per PM.
 

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Hello Standley
That`s sad to hear you were treated rudely on the German forum, We`re not like that here.
Any tips or experience you have, will be recieved with thanks and any questions you have will be answered properly, I`m sure.
Stu.
 
I'm so sad for this too.

I've the same experience about Zetec 1.7L timing belt replacement.. lot of guys said 'don't do it', 'you will break the engine'.. but nobody try to help about !!

Finally, I've done it, and have some difficulties, but after do some correction everything is now OK
Two day after me a friend have do the same, but with all the tips required to do it.

For me, this was a '3 days job' to change the belt and to fix the problems
For my friend, this was 'only' 1.5 day ;)
 
.AleX. said:
[post]353403[/post] I'm so sad for this too.

I've the same experience about Zetec 1.7L timing belt replacement.. lot of guys said 'don't do it', 'you will break the engine'.. but nobody try to help about !!
Certainly as far as this forum is concerned, just two guys said not to do it. The main one being Barry, who is also the most helpful guy around here.

If 'nobody try to help about !!' then maybe there's a clue here, as to why? -

.AleX. said:
[post]353261[/post] tuonokid sorry, but I'm doesn't listening to advise from people who's never meet me :wink:
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=353261#p353261
 
Cheers Frank that's much appreciated. As you have noticed I would hate for anyone to ruin their engine on here if I could help. Maybe something's been lost in translation in the earlier messages but if certain parameters can't be met in the cambelt change it won't end well.
Barry
 
I must agree with Frank.

Also, if I didn't listen to people I'd never met I wouldn't be whsre I was with my car today.

In fact, I probably owe Barry an apology because I asked for his help and opinion and then went in totally the opposite direction! :oops:

And Standley, as Stu says, everyone here welcomes information and any questions you have will try to be answered :)
 
Tanks for all your writings.
I will write down all mi experience with the rebuild of my engine. But it will be to mutch for me to write it in englisch. So is somone here wo can translate it for me to post here?
 
I guess you're German? And my German isn't great. Maybe someone else here can speak German?!

You could always try Google translator and then I'm sure one of us can do any minor corrections because Google doesn't always get it right, but it's usually easy to see what it means.
 
Frank said:
[post]353404[/post]
Certainly as far as this forum is concerned, just two guys said not to do it. The main one being Barry, who is also the most helpful guy around here.
This was not on projectpuma than people said me directly "don't do it". Sorry for the inconvenience. I'm understanding than tuonokid may have been sad about my words, so apologize on http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=353422#p353422

Then, for Standley90 Zetec Engine Restoration : do you have made some work on cylinders, replace pistons rings or other critical parts on it ?
 
For the first Question. I'm from Swizerland

And for AleX: I did the folowin Works.

Clean the Cylinderhead an check all parts for damage
Check the valve coils for Presure and instalation height
Polish the valves and new cut in
dissaseble the shortblock including equiped the ckrankshaft.
Check the Pistons and the conecting rods for damage under ultrasound
check the cylinder wearing
replace the piston rings. We nowehre found new oil rings for this pistons so we make notch a bit bigger and tock biger rings.
replace the conecting rod bearings. It was qiet dificult. The bearings from Glyco wer wrong. After intensivce searching we found bearings from a Honda Engine they nearly fit. We had only to grind the nose a litle bit.
replace the crankshaft bearings. The old one wer looking nearly as new. so replacemant was not nesesary.
cleaning the block and check for damages
check the crankshaft under ultrasound
And now the ultimative work to let the engine run ten times smoother.
fine balance the crankshaft with all parts who ar mountet on the Crankshaft. it means including the puley's the fly wheel and the presure plate from the clutch. I was scared as i see how many they worked on the new presure plate. It is unbelivabel how bad they are produced.
It ist a litle bit dificult to mount the puley's becaus after fine balance they have to fit in an exact position on the crankshaft. So you must change the way you mount the timing belt. Becaus you have to torque down the crankshaft puleys firt and then the camshaft once.

My assessment for the parts after check in this engine

Valves valvesprings and valve seat. as long as the seats are tight they nearly hold forever.
crankshaftbearings shall hold 500TKM
conecting rod bearings and piston rings replacement with 250Tkm is recomendet
Cylinderwall i think the wearing is good enough for 500Tkm then there are two ways. Let it be and live with les compresion and les power or take the big money for new cylinder wal coatin. I asked if it is possible and it is. If it makes sense or not is a other controversy.

So this is the short description of my 7 month work. Planned was 3 Months.

I hope tis wil help someone.

Notice: For this work it is extremly nessessary that you know what you do. Ther are many litle details you can do wrong. And it is important that you work in an area as clean and sterile as an operating room in an hospital. also it is recomendet to do a oil and filter change after 1500 Km.

I have many pictures from the worksteps and a short video from the first engine run after rebuild. If someone wish i will post this to.
 
Wow ! This is really a very depth restoration !

Is the engine is installed now ? Maybe you have some pictures to share ?
 
I finishet it last August. And the engine is still runing fine.
I have a few pictures. when i know where i can post i will do.
 
Standley90 said:
[post]353418[/post] Tanks for all your writings.
I will write down all mi experience with the rebuild of my engine. But it will be to mutch for me to write it in englisch. So is somone here wo can translate it for me to post here?
wann es ist leichter für Sie, ich lese Deutch. So, bitte, scrieb in Deutch was getan was, wie und mit welchen Teilen, bitte.

Ich planne die gleiche und habe etwas entdecken. Bitte, lies http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=27035
 
Standley90 said:
[post]353426[/post] For the first Question. I'm from Swizerland


replace the piston rings. We nowehre found new oil rings for this pistons so we make notch a bit bigger and tock biger rings.

Which rings did you put in? As in my other post, I have found the rings from Honda A18 engine to be exact fit (dimensionally) appart from the fact that they are not compatible with nikasil coating.

Standley90 said:
[post]353426[/post]
replace the conecting rod bearings. It was qiet dificult. The bearings from Glyco wer wrong. After intensivce searching we found bearings from a Honda Engine they nearly fit. We had only to grind the nose a litle bit.

Yes, they are wrong. You need a set of bearing for Mitsubishi G15 engine (42/45 mm)

Standley90 said:
[post]353426[/post]
replace the crankshaft bearings. The old one wer looking nearly as new. so replacemant was not nesesary.
I thought as much, this is good information!

Standley90 said:
[post]353426[/post]
And now the ultimative work to let the engine run ten times smoother.
fine balance the crankshaft with all parts who ar mountet on the Crankshaft. it means including the puley's the fly wheel and the presure plate from the clutch. I was scared as i see how many they worked on the new presure plate. It is unbelivabel how bad they are produced.
It ist a litle bit dificult to mount the puley's becaus after fine balance they have to fit in an exact position on the crankshaft. So you must change the way you mount the timing belt. Becaus you have to torque down the crankshaft puleys firt and then the camshaft once.
I also plan to do the same and balance everything. Once I read somewhere that Ford balances its engines to 92% (100% being perfect balance to within a gram) so it makes sense to do it at the earliest opportunity. It would also take the strain of the main bearings and make their life longer and easier.

Standley90 said:
[post]353426[/post]
My assessment for the parts after check in this engine

Valves valvesprings and valve seat. as long as the seats are tight they nearly hold forever.
crankshaftbearings shall hold 500TKM
conecting rod bearings and piston rings replacement with 250Tkm is recomendet
Cylinderwall i think the wearing is good enough for 500Tkm then there are two ways. Let it be and live with les compresion and les power or take the big money for new cylinder wal coatin. I asked if it is possible and it is. If it makes sense or not is a other controversy.
Much easier way IMHO is to put in the sleeves. Even in Croatia it can be done easily and cheaply enough. They put in the cast iron sleeves with 1.5 mm wall thickness and that enables you to use the previously mentioned Honda A18 set of rings (as they are constructed for cast iron block). The sleeving of the block would cost me just about the same as the Ford original set of piston rings for JUST ONE cylinder and then you are ok for next 250-300 tkm. The engine uses sleeves anyway so no harm done. And if needed you can redo the sleeving again for again a fraction of cost of the OEM set of piston rings (1/4th to be exact) and avoid the replating the cylinder.

Standley90 said:
[post]353426[/post]
I have many pictures from the worksteps and a short video from the first engine run after rebuild. If someone wish i will post this to.

Please, do post the pictures if you have any. And many thanks for sharing your findings with us!
Vielen Dank
 

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