HOW TO: Change cambelt on 1.7L 125hp engine

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xztraz

Member
Joined
Sep 9, 2013
Messages
222
Location
Sweden-Uppsala län
Composed a Cambelt change guide pdf from ford TIS program and completed with photos and colorizing of drawings.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/xs36au1w75sn406/Ford%20Puma%201.7%20Crankshaft%20seal%20change%20guide.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


I take no responsibility for the manual and you should be a decent mechanic to try this yourself.
 
Great guide! It would be cool if you'd upload that PDF also to some other sites than Dropbox so that future Puma owners are sure to have access to it too. No one knows how long Dropbox will be around, you might delete the PDF from your Dropbox some day or even delete your whole account. Nothing is more frustrating than looking on some +5-year-old forum post and noticing that links don't work anymore.
 
Here are some which I found from Google. If you eventually use couple of them, the PDF would most propably be here almost forever. Or maybe some admin could upload it to ProjectPuma's server?
http://www.filedropper.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.zippyshare.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
https://www.sendspace.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://www.mediafire.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
http://tinyupload.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
 
Ah great :)

If it could be put on pp site that would of corse be best.

Please feel free to proof read the guide so i dont encourage annyone to break something :) i should maybe add that you might need a new head cover gasket as well. If someone have more pictures i'm happy to receive them.
 
I've downloaded it so if someone reminds me I'll put it on the website here.

I have my brothers wedding tomorrow so I'm bound to forget.
 
That's one of the more comprehensive guides I've seen... :thumbs:

however... :)

Although it does say to loosen off both cam pulleys (which is good news) it doesn't explain why... when the pin is pulled out of the tensioner, it's critical that the pulleys are finger tight so the whole system is tensioned properly all the way round... A lot of mechanics are just not getting this bit right at all, if it's not correctly tensioned you can literally just pull the belt off the pulleys with your fingers as I have on many now.. :eek:

With regards to the 'kick back' plate on the tensioner..it does mention (as per the Gates guide) that the setting bolt be tightened after the tension is applied to the belt...again, a simple task which many mechanics are making a complete balls off lol.. when done correctly, the kick back plate sits about 3mm away from the tensioner so that when the engine is turned off or you hit the rev limiter the tension in the belt isn't reduced by a severe amount...

It also makes no mention of the 'ideal' way of doing it (IMO) which is to lock up the flywheel on the other side of the crank.. if you lock up the flywheel at TDC then achieving the 40nm + 90deg is a lot more achievable by hand... (without breaking the TDC pin)

how anyone is going achieve this with that fabricated holding tool with the crank freely turning round is completely beyond me...whether your on a ramp or stands it sounds like a nightmare unless your one strong M***** F***** :lol:

With the engine in the car most garages will simply blast the bottom stretch bolt on with a high powered gun...

It's a hell of a lot easier to make a tidy job of it with the engine out IMO.. plus you can clean down the side of the engine and make a more pukka job of it..

Chris

ps... one more little tip...holding the VCT cam bar by hand on a short 20mm spanner is really quite awkward...ideally when torqueing up the VCT bolt to 105nm you could really do with a good long 20mm spanner....I do this with the cam bar in place, resisting the movement with the spanner, but you do risk breaking the ends of the cam bar using this method... :idea:
 
Could you please write what you want to complete the guide with and where and i'll add it :)

Making the correct torque was not a problem if using long tools without the timing pin in place. We where 2 guys doing thins so might have helped :)
 
I have followed this guide to the letter and my engine is running rough. Any ideas as to what could be wrong. Was running all right before I changed the cambelt.
Thanks for any help
Chris
 
Did you check the timing by turning the engine over and fitting the timing tools again? did it align perfectly?

How was the timing before changing belt? Maybe a ecu-reset might be good.

Check all electrical stuff you've touched.
 
chrismac said:
I have followed this guide to the letter and my engine is running rough. Any ideas as to what could be wrong. Was running all right before I changed the cambelt.
Thanks for any help
Chris

Did you find out what went wrong?
Do i need to clarify the ford guide?

As previous stated. This should only be performed by someone that have done similar mechanical jobs before. The guide is only an enhanced ford tis guide and should be correct.
 
el dude said:
It also makes no mention of the 'ideal' way of doing it (IMO) which is to lock up the flywheel on the other side of the crank.. if you lock up the flywheel at TDC then achieving the 40nm + 90deg is a lot more achievable by hand... (without breaking the TDC pin)

how anyone is going achieve this with that fabricated holding tool with the crank freely turning round is completely beyond me...whether your on a ramp or stands it sounds like a nightmare unless your one strong M***** F***** :lol:

Could you not put the car in gear and have someone hold their foot on the brake?
 
I can only recommend what ford have written.

It was not that hard with the tool i made thou. i just put a strap between the tool and sub frame to stop stuff turning around.

the position of the pulley is not that important if re-timing the other two pulleys. But you don't want to turn the crank around too much when loosening/tightening the bolt which could happen if using the gearbox and brake method. usually quite much play in the gears and diffs and such.
 
xztraz said:
Making the correct torque was not a problem if using long tools without the timing pin in place. We where 2 guys doing thins so might have helped :)

what difference would 2 people make?

how did you manage to turn the bottom pulley bolt 40nm and then 90Deg without anything moving if you didn't lock anything up... :eek:
 
one guy lying down on the ground holding the bar for dear life. and one guy making the torque. markings on the tool to have 90 degrees.

of course stuff moves around a little bit but the moment was correct relative to the crank. then timing is set via the top pulleys so as long as the crank don't move around to much during torque it's ok. doing this on one guy would be harder.

but of course if you are cheating and don't re time the engine you need to lock it in exact position. ;)
 
hi

half way through doing this at the moment, guide seems the best Ive found

I cant get my head round why i need to undo the cam pulleys - surely if i time the cams with the tool and set crank to tdc with other tool everything is as before?

due to cam belt being a 1/4 of its original width i took it off after marking up crank and cam pulleys however this was eariler then most guides show - will this have changed anything? the vct pulley did seem to move (anti clockwise) on removal the belt does this need to be returned fully clockwise to its stop for belt replacement or is this why the cam pulley needs to be removed.

thanks for any advise / input
 

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