Boot open switch (interior)

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jonspencer_1981

New member
Joined
Oct 27, 2009
Messages
30
I had a request from CHESTNUTREE (on PumaPeople) to do a how to on this so thought I'd write one up.


This is a "how to" on successfully making an interior boot release which DOESN'T affect your current exterior boot release or the central locking.

You will need -

approx 3-4 metres of insulated electrical wire (good insulation as it will be wired to an ignition live)
a boot swicth from a Ford Cougar/Ka etc
blox electrical connectors (best I can describe it - the ones with little screws in)
wire cutters
wiring connectors
Ford headunit keys (or aftermarket if required)


Firstly, open your boot and remove the carpeted section from your n/s/r light. You may need to undo the plastic bolts holding the shield on your boot lock to get enough acess to the wiring. Upon doing this you will see a plastic wiring connector with a black/orange wire on either side. To be sure this is the right wire, follow it to the boot lock.

You will need to cut this wire and remove the black connector. This black connector will no longer be required.

Next, you will need to feed a single wire from the boot, underneath the carpet until you reach a suitable position in the fron cabin (I placed mine under the gearstick so the switch could be mounted on the plastic surround, but will be repositioning to the interior fuse cover eventually)

This wire is going to eventually connect from your boot to your stereo!

Following this, remove your stereo and connect a length of wire (dependant on desired switch position) to your ignition live on your headunit. This will now need to be connected on one side of your blox connector along with the wire under the carpet (NOTE - both connected on the same side!!)

On the other side of this, you will need to connect your switch. I had to do a trial and error on the cables to see which way to connect it (just try wires in different positions as 2 wires will be for lighting the switch, the other 2 will be to power it)

I didn't light my switch, so once you have determined the switch wires, trim and tape the spare wires.

Now the front section is completed, go back to the boot.

Since you have cut the boot switch connector off, you should have 2 black/orange wires and the wire that runs under the carpet.

As you look DOWN into the boot, you need to connect in the following order - LEFT = one black/orange wire RIGHT = one black/orange wire and the extra wire you have placed under the carpet.

Connect the wires using a blox connector so that you have one wire on the left side, and 2 wires on the right side.

Before putting everything back together CHECK IT WORKS - check exterior release, interior release, central locking & alarm.

If you have done it correctly, everything should work, and you can put your boot back together.


There you have it, one interior boot release that runs on ignition, and you still keep your exterior release for when the ignition is off.

I am unsure if this works with aftermarket alarms, but should do as the concept is fairly easy.



YOUR ALARM MAY GO OFF AS THE WIRING FOR THE BOOT HAS BEEN CUT, WHICH MAKES THE CAR THINK YOUR BOOT IS OPEN. ALL YOU NEED TO DO IS SET AND UNSET IT (I DID IT WITH THE KEY ITSELF)
 
Not yet 1001 jobs to do before adding extras :D

Sounds extensive enough though

:)
 
red said:
Not yet 1001 jobs to do before adding extras :D

Sounds extensive enough though

:)

Well I found it fairly easy to do, and I'm not a mechanic/electrician. It's still working fine, so theory and practice is sound.
 
I've thought about doing this for several months now as I hate having to switch my engine off just so that I can open my boot I agree it's good that the boot cannot be opened unless the engine is switched off but I do think there should be a button in the interior which allows you to do this!
 
I have sucessfully done this.....

PICT0812.jpg


One single red wire from the radio permanent live to the boot release switch.
One single red wire from the switch through into the boot and connected onto the Black/Orange wire on the white solanoid release thing (don't know what it is called!!)
I have connected the illumination wires to the headlight levelling control.

Works perfect! No door open lights on the dash, alarm sets and works as normal!

Thanks to jonspencer_1981
 
Red...

Just how I like things!

I chose to mount the switch there because there is plenty of room behind the dash and also it is easy to get to, to operate. But slightly hidden out of the way. It doesn't stick out hidden down there.
 
actually got myself a switch now so am gonna give it ago but to save time doe any 1 now what terminal does what. eg. 1 is illumination and 2 is power. that sorta thing ???
 
im doing this today but im a bit confused on this bit...

Following this, remove your stereo and connect a length of wire (dependant on desired switch position) to your ignition live on your headunit. This will now need to be connected on one side of your blox connector along with the wire under the carpet (NOTE - both connected on the same side!!)

On the other side of this, you will need to connect your switch. I had to do a trial and error on the cables to see which way to connect it (just try wires in different positions as 2 wires will be for lighting the switch, the other 2 will be to power it)

I didn't light my switch, so once you have determined the switch wires, trim and tape the spare wires

so when you take the power from the stereo and connect to the the boot on one side does the other side of the connector just have the 1 wire going to a connector on the switch???
 
Sorry for dragging this back up, but am i right in thinking that you just run a remote live from the back of your HU through a switch, straight to the live side of the exterior boot switch? Kinda confused by the write up :oops:
 
Tom B said:
... but am i right in thinking that you just run a remote live from the back of your HU through a switch, straight to the live side of the exterior boot switch? Kinda confused by the write up :oops:

You use the live for the head unit from the ignition, it should have two lives... one permenant (keeps the memory for stations, settings etc.) and one which only becomes live when the ignition is turned on.... (the one the guide says..)

Basically I did...
Found live for head unit, joined a piece of wire to this, joined other end to boot switch.
From boot switch connected another wire then run it round car into boot.
Joined/spliced the other end (in the boot) onto the black/orange wire on the white boot release solenoid.

You need to make sure you find out which wires on the switch you need to use...
 
Both of those look fine. It's only a switch which allows a current to pass through when the contacts inside are made.

Non-latching would be best, then it only allows the current to pass when you press it, then breaks the circuit when you release it.
 

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