HOW TO: Change cambelt on 1.7L 125hp engine

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There's no point in marking up the crank pulley as you have to take it off to get the cambelt off as there is a cover in the way. The whole point of this guide is to point out that all the pulleys are free floating (no woodruff keys) and without taking the engine out and locking the flywheel you need the special tools listed....all of them! If you haven't got all the special tools listed in this official Ford guide you cannot change the cambelt this way.
Barry
 
thanks

so to clarify - i can leave cam pulleys in place? do i need to do anything with variable valve/exhaust pulley position?

i have ordered a flywheel locking tool as cant get the crank pulley bolt off
 
if you've turned the crank over to the pin and the cam bar slots in place perfectly, then yes, as you've pointed out, the timing is already in good order... personally in this case I would still undo the exhaust pulley and leave it finger tight before pulling the pin out, so that when the pin is pulled it will still be able to tension that area between the two cams...

if you don't do this all you've done is change parts and not really re-tensioned the cams...

Personally I would change the cam seals also, as they do tend to weep over time...your only going to do it once :cool:

hope that helps..

Chris
 
Joedeltahf
You do realise that if you are using the flywheel locking tool that you will have to take the engine out as this Ford guide is specifically for doing the job with the special ford tools with the engine in situ
Barry

PS Chris agreeing with you entirely
 
thanks,

get your point about the re tension

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/220901088089?_trksid=p2060778.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

ordered this locking tool i assume it locks once the starter is removed - if not will have to try an impact gun from lord tool hire
 
That tool would most certainly work if it fits.

Just make sure you check the timing properly when all is in place. a couple of turns of the engine by hand and test with timing pins (as guide states). Took 2-3 tries for me to get it spot on.

and also the tensioner must be mounted and tensioned correctly
 
Hi, im a new member and have just picked up a 1.7 in good condition but in need of a cam belt change and some other tlc. Can anyone point me to a good diy guide, im pretty mechanically sound so hope to be ok. Thanks everyone. Neil.
 
neil007 take it to the garage -its doable but a right carry on!

flywheel locking tool worked for the crank bolt removal though had to use a longer bolt and lock nut against the key to get it to mesh with the flywheel and the starter in / out is a complete t**t.

this is the most f**k on ive had to change a cambelt on any car and ive done a few.

ebay cam alignment tool is too thick - used 2 bits of 3mm x 25mm (6mm total thickness) ally from B&Q, could of used another mm to exacting - car runs great. tdc crank stop tool/pin is the only useful bit in the kit.

slackened just the exhaust cam pulley to get tension and tooth alignment correct

had to cut 2" long x 1" wide out of the edge of plastic cam cover just under exhaust cam to get it on after 15mins of swearing may be easier if the engine mount was a bit looser but still another f on.

I would say all in its took about 15hrs

good tip for drive belt (not cambelt) is cable ties looped round engine mount and you can hook spanner in with tensioner fully off and wind belt on the crank pulley, couldnt have done it on my own with only 2 hands otherwise.
 
Hello,

Got a second Ford Puma 1.7. The last one was too far gone with rust to save. But loved the way it drove, so I'm onto my second stint of Puma ownership.

This one hasn't had a cambelt change for a while so I'm going to have a crack with the help of the Guide from "Gates" and the helpful comments above.

Just a question though... Please could you look at this link to a timing kit on ebay tell me if it will do the job? None of the kits listed mention the 1.7 engine, so I want to be sure it'll work.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Camshaft-Setting-kit-Tool-Locking-Timing-Pin-For-Ford-Engine-Zetec-Focus-Puma-UK/142394743225?epid=915892218&hash=item21276359b9:g:sroAAOSwpINZZ9ai

Many thanks, James
 
Hi James
I used the timing kit from Laser tools when I did mine so I can vouch for that. It's the kit that suits the ZETEC E as well as the ZETEC SE (Puma).
You will also need a copy of Gates technical bulletin # 036 off the internet and also, either all the crank holding tools shown in the Ford TIS at the start of this thread if the engine is not coming out. If you are taking the engine out you will need a flywheel locking tool.
If you don't understand the procedure and why things need to be done in a certain way you will ruin your engine as it's impossible to do the cambelt change with just the timing kit as special tools. As the engine has no woodruff keys on the crankshaft or camshafts, once the pulleys have been undone there is no way to lock the crankshaft in place without the special tools to tighten the crankshaft pulley. Also if you don't follow the Gates technical bulletin #036 you will tension the belt incorrectly and ruin your engine.
So to sum up the belt change on this has many pitfalls if you don't know what you're doing and if you don't have ALL the special tools.
Barry
 
Thanks for the quick reply Barry. Unfortunately I can't get the Ford TIS to download and show on my computer, and none of the kits are clear whether they will do the job. Hence just after some one who has done the job to look at the link and see if all the parts are present in the kit advertised.

I have the gates 036 instructions. It seems clear that to get the correct tension, all the floating pulleys have to be able to move when the pin is released from the tensioner.

I'll do some more Google'ing

Thanks James
 
OK, apologies. Answered my on question. Yes those kits will fit the Puma Zetec SE engine. No kits available for the crankshaft pulley remover and installer. Will have to weld up my own I think. Cheers James
 
Hi James
The tools are still available but as rare as hens teeth. These are mine and are under the brand description of AST 4629 or Taskmaster TM4629.

291120173567 by barry wilson, on Flickr

They vary in price but can be as much as over £200 plus you also need a long knuckle bar, a degree disc that works in conjunction with the knuckle bar (1/2 inch square drive) and a 19mm and 18mm bi-hex sockets.
If you take the engine out to do the job you don't need the tools shown in the photo just a flywheel locking tool.
Whereabouts do you live as if you are near me you can possibly borrow mine but you may also be close to some of the guys on here that do cambelt swaps in which case I would recommend that you use them as by the time you've bought the tools that's nearly the cost of the work being done.
Barry
 
Hi Rick, PM sent

Cheers Barry for the info. I'm down on the south coast in Brighton. Think you guys are all a bit far north!!!

I'll get a couple of quotes. But seems around £400 judging by the internet forums.... Car only cost £375! No rot in subframe mounting though and only 57,900 miles. I'd like to look after it....

Cheers
 
!! Sorry, put Rick in receipt not Yog. Sent again, but managed to get the PDF downloaded.....
 
Now after a good while with the guide. Does it need some updates? I'm about to change timing belt again so might overhaul the instructions too.
 

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