Dedicated Track Car Progress Thread

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Hi Stu
Make sure you get a copy of the Gates technical Bulletin #036 off the net before you start because it's really easy to get tensioning the belt incorrectly and the bulletin explains it really well. Also if you've looked at my project post you'll see the level of force needed to remove and fasten the crank bolt.
Barry
 
I've had a look at your build thread. You can weld, that's for sure...
I figured that a comedy extension bar would be needed and a similar length of scaffold is standing by ;-)
I was planning on making a tool to hold the pulley, but with the forces involved I think buying one could be prudent...
 
we have a super strong snapon airgun to undo the bottom pulley bolts, timing is tricky on these engines, done a few, bit easier with the full locking kit
 
Hi Stu and Noobrider
The point I'm trying to get across is that to undo my bottom bolt I had the ford special tool with a pry bar between that and the inner wing and a knuckle bar with socket onto the bolt with the end of the bar on a trolley jack and as I was jacking up the knuckle bar it was trying to lift up the car before the nut eventually came loose. If your engine is loose out of the car how will you hold the crank still and remove the bolt at the same time, far easier to use a flywheel locking tool as you only have to concentrate on loosening and re-tightening the bolt.
Barry
 
Hmm.. Very good point.
I was hoping to use two scaff poles in a 'scissor' action. Looks like this might not be enough.
I can borrow (hopefully) a quality impact gun this might be the only way without throwing the engine around my driveway...

I do have certain time constraints as the car is at Cadwell 17/10. So its gotta happen this weekend really...
 
Hi Stu
You might be able to get it in via the hole where the starter motor goes but with the engine and box out it's only 5 mins to take the box off the back of the engine. The bonus is that you can lock the crank exactly on the timing pin indicated TDC knowing full well that however much pressure you put on the crank bolt the cranks not going to turn.
Barry
 
my only issue with whipping the box off, is that the engine is `sitting` on a bench and the flat of the box is what`s holding it upright!
Saturday is `car-nage` day! I`ll try a couple of approaches, the gun will probably be the winner I`ll just have to wind the motor back to tdc once its cracked.
I`ll have a look at machine mart/euro carparts to price up a holding tool (I want some taps anyhow) and let you know how I get on
 
Hi Stu
I think you know what I mean now. With the engine in the car you can use the weight of the car and the fact the engine's clamped in to your benefit. With the engine out you have to worry about holding the crank steady, undoing the bolt and trying to hold the engine steady. Can you wedge the engine in a doorframe?
I also bought a (cheap) airgun with the intention of using it to release the crank bolt (also holding the vib damper with the special tool) and with 100PSI on my compressor it wouldn't shift.
Do you also know that you really shouldn't be trying to loosen or tighten any of the bolts with the timing pin and plate still in position?
Barry
 
Hi barry.
Yeah, I know not to leave any timing tools in while you are swinging on this nut, Ive seen camshafts (FRP ones!) with the lugs snapped off :?
The gun is a snap-on item, which my mate used on an escort pulley (zetec silvertop) and had no probs (even though he didnt have a clue how to time the engine and thought I was talking out of my arse when I mentioned pins and bars!!! He got there in the end)
I have had the idea of re-fitting my old waterpump and using that to lock the pulley tool.
 
Hi Stu
From memory Zetec E cam pulley bolts are only about 45ft/lb and the crank bolt I have no idea as it's 40NM +90 Deg but I'm sure it will be well over 100ft/lb. The Snap On gun should be good if your compressor has enough grunt to run it. That idea of using your old water pump as a stop for the vib damper holding tool might work if 1) the water pump sticks out far enough and 2) if the vib damper holding tool at TDC is in the right position to press against it. When I bolted my vib damper tool in place at TDC I was lucky in that the holding tool was parallel to the inner wing and just below it so all I had to do was put a pry bar between the tool and the inner wing which meant that the crank only moved a couple of degrees when I undid the bolt.
Barry
 
did you get it off? Was away at the Ford meet at Squires today so only just catching up.
 
Hi Stu
I think that picture on my posting showing the 6ft scaffold pole on the end of the breaker bar should have given you a clue as to how tight the vib damper bolt is but I hope you've got it off now without turning the crank too far.
Barry
 
I had to give in, the tools were flexing and 'popping' off with some force. One of us (me or the engine) would have ended up getting hurt...
So, I'm going to throw the motor in the back of the van and call in at a friendly garage to crack the nut on their air gun then bring it home, sort belt and refit engine.
I'll be saving the final tightening until the engine is back in the car.

Not much progress because of this, just a little cosmetic bodywork.
Oh yeah, I also picked up a 1.7 spares repair to play with (so cheap I had to get it)
 
Hi Stu
It will definitely be easier to tighten up in the car but you will need the scaffold pole :grin: Do you also have one of the degree measuring tools that wll fit on your socket drive so that you can measure the 90 deg?
Barry
 
Hi Barry, I have 2 matching huge scaff poles which I had on each tool, the engine just wouldn`t stay still, which caused me problems.
I do have a angle measurer thingie for my sockets, so can torque things up properly.
If I was to do this again. I`d crack the flywheel nut while engine is still in car!
 
Hi Stu
Yes you definitely tried to do the job with the worst systems possible. It's either engine in + vib damper tool or engine out flywheel locked + probably on an engine stand.
Barry
PS I know I keep asking but have you read and taken in the Gates Bulletin yet as this is also vital.
 
Hi Stu
It's on the net, just type in Gates Technical Bulletin #036. Read this in conjunction with looking at your new belt tensioner and it will become clear how to tension the belt properly and why you have to do it in a certain way. If you just follow the method in the Ford TIS it seems overly complicated and doesn't explain why you have to do it that way. Get it wrong and the belt won't tension properly and you'll be looking for another engine.
Barry
 

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