JASAPP

ProjectPuma

Help Support ProjectPuma:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Improved the boot as well. Had new carpet made to measure, bought 4 VW luggage tie down eyes. VW does them best, I have to admit it, so I got foour of them drilled some holes and tapped them. Cut the carpet to measure and screwed them in and put elastic net over it. No more things flying around in my boot! :cool:
Also, got the LED light instead of pathetic original; LED is 10000 times better!







And the light
 
The other day tried to clean the exhaust end. It was dirty and not very nice. Used some Sonax polish for stainless steel and think it came out just fine. Massive improvement!



Also, put an umbrella in the car. And it is a ford puma umbrella I had for years…. :wink:

Cut some opening in the floor carpet and pulled velcro through


Placed the puma umbrella in place where it bothers noone


And the umbrella itself in front of the car
 
As the suspension is almost renewed completely, thought could do the same with gearbox. Bought one used in good nick from IanG, and took it apart.



It was in very good condition, only the selector fork for the third gear has some wear on it. The previous owner must have driven the car with his hand resting on the gearstick or something, as everything else is in very good condition. Synchro rings are as good as new.
So, on with refurbishment.
These are the parts that will be replaced: the bearings (all 6 of them), the third gear selector, the driveshaft seals, the selector shaft seal, and the imput shaft seal together with the fifth gear housing gasket


Cleaning the housing which was very dirty.


Both parts together; the small one (the fifth gear and reverse housing) is already cleaned, the major part still not




Ready for jetwashing


After some major celaning involving the hot water jetwash, plenty of brake cleaner, even some Lidl dish washing detergent and wire brushing the two parts (temporary) bolted together


Ready for priming


And primed


That is how she stands ATM, and all that hussle is just preparation for instaliing the LSD, of course :wink:
 
Lee - you need to buck your ideas up, son - I've got a new Puma crush now. :-D
 
Yeah, well, umm... fair play. I've never made an umbrella holder so my cap is doffed. :lol:

Oh and Rob, on another note, your thread was last updated in August so pull your finger out eh fella!

Loving this thread by the way - very useful info for ST150 brakes which I'm eyeing up at the moment! Lovely car and certainly not a JASAPP by any means!
 
The Arch Bishop said:
Loving this thread by the way - very useful info for ST150 brakes which I'm eyeing up at the moment! Lovely car and certainly not a JASAPP by any means!

Thanks again. Nothing special on ST150 conversion. Bolt on job, really. If you are using propellor wheels, you will need 3 mm spacers at the front and that is it
 
The Arch Bishop said:
Oh and Rob, on another note, your thread was last updated in August so pull your finger out eh fella!
Touché. :lol:
 
Small update regarding the gearbox…

Finishing coat of silver




And the oil to be used…


It says it meets Ford specification WSS-M2C200-D2. Is that OK to be used with IB5 gearbox?
TIS says the right specification of oil is WSD-M2C200-C. Had a browse on castrol site and the difference between the two is viscosity at ratio of 3:1. I guess newer gearboxes have better materials that can withstand thinner oil. I guess I will have to return that oil and get it replaced with Syntrans multivehicle 75W-90.
Any help greatly appretiated; wouldn't want to kill the gearbox by using the wrong type of oil?
 
I just put some generic 75/90 in mine and it's been fine. Generally manual gearboxes are pretty forgiving when it comes to oil, especially the IB5 which seems to be made to withstand nuclear war.
 
Have spoken to a gearbox specialist (specialised in automatic g'boxes, but knows them all). When asked him which gearboxes he thinks are the best, his immediate response was: the Ford manual, big one (i.e. MT75). That is made by the book, and example to all the others how these things should be made. Generally speaking, Ford has very good if not the best gearboxes, but that one is THE best there is. Including all the fancy BMW's, Audis etc…
We have a saying: don't kill an oxe just for a kg of meat! After all the effort and money put into reconditioning that gearbox wouldn't want to fail at last hurdle, ie. the oil inside it….
 
Small update! Noisy bearing on alternator was driving me nuts. Made sure it was the bearing using the screwdriver as stetoscope :wink:

So, went to specialized shop, got the bearings and got on with it!

Found out it was impossible to take the alternator down with the headlight in place. The bottom screw is impossible to be reached. Undid it just through the headlight opening…


And it is out!


Took the pulley out. Nothing major there


Undid the four plus four screws holding the alternator together, but it was still seized. So, started to open it using the screw and nut. Wound up the screw and then hit it with a hammer on the oposite side!


Success! It started to open. Redid the procedure again.


And finally..!


Few hits with hammer and the old bearing is out


Now comes the funny part. Before started taking everything apart, put the new bearing in the freezer. There it was for two hours, I'd say at -20-ish C


After the old bearing was out, cleaned the housing and prepared it for the complete renewal.


Primed


And painted in sliver


Then I put it for 20 minutes in the owen warmed at 100C. The primary reason for that was not to cure the paint, but to strech it a bit.


It worked like a charm! The bearing eased itself in without hammer or any tools. Just a light push with finger and it was in


After that putting everything back together and voila!


Now, I intended to change both of the bearings, but when opened the alternator, was not sure about the back end. All the how to's and tutorials I could find dealt with Bosch or Valeo alternators and none with Mitsubishi which is installed in my car so didn't want to push my luck with it. So I just replaced the bad front bearing and put everything together and now it is working as intended. No more noise, engine is at tickover a beauty to listen to!
 
With spray jobs I'd say 3 hours. The biggest problem was to undid the pulley nut. I must have lost 15 minutes on that, of course, trying to undo it and not to break something. Eveything else is just standard mechanic job. Find out first what alternator you have. Google it on the net to see the procedure for dismantling it without breaking it and that is it!
 
I love the quality of you work and the attention to detail, these are my favourite sort of threads. Keep up the good work!
 
Thanks, mate!

So, here is a small update. About a year agi changed droplinks and put on the billet adjustable droplinks. They were excellent. With them on the steering felt wonderfully and still feels as if lubricated. Easier, nicer, better. But, about two months ago front suspension started to knock. At first thought the bolt holding it in place got lose, but soon found out that one of unibals developed play. About 1 mm, I'd say, enough to klonk and really anoy.
Got in contact with the seller (eBay), politelly told him that one of unibals was probably from the bad batch or something, developed play and asked him to sell me a replacement part. He was very kind and sent me one unibal for free, so big thanks to him!

A new unibal


A rubber boot to be put on to protect it from dust and dirt


Heated up the boot a bit with heat gun and streched it over without problems


The droplink on the car


Taken down


The bad unibal


Replaced and no more banging
 
In preparation for engine upgrade to FRP standard got another airfilter box to be converted to to FRP standard as well. So, took out the resonator






The problem was it was broken a bit. So had to repair it first and then clenaed it and painted it to look like it should…

Bottom case with broken fixation point that was glued in place and secured with some screws and profiled metal…


Detail of repaired corner




And from inside secured with selflocking nuts just in case


The top housing was also cracked a bit so glued it with silicone glue that is easltic after hardening. Should be better then hot glue as the car vibrates a lot


And from outside


After that the usual procedure of degreasing, priming and spraying






While at it, did the same to dust caps to be installed to the rear hubs. After cleaning, priming and spraying came out better than new!


Also, couldn't resist cleaning the car as well a bit….
 

Latest posts

Back
Top