HOW TO: Change the waterpump (without removing the cambelt)

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ScubaSteve

Active member
Joined
May 8, 2010
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3,749
How to to replace waterpump without removing the cambelt. Hopefully will dispel some of the myths that you need to take the cambelt off to replace.

What you need:

Various sockets, namely 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 15mm, E8 star socket
Waterpump: Ford Part 1566239 circa £100
Jack
Block of wood
Axle stands
3l undiluted Anti freeze
Screwdrivers
12mm and 13mm spanner
Torque Wrench

Guide:

Start by jacking the car up and placing on axle stands.

Drain the coolant by undoing the plastic bolt in the bottom right hand corner of it

P1050249.JPG


Remove the weathershield

P1070392.JPG


If you look under and up you will see thisis held in my 2 8mm bolts, remove them

P1070385.JPG


once free look behind the plastic and undo the hose from the clips

P1070387.JPG


Withdraw the shield from the car

Next job is to loosen the 4x 12mm nuts on the waterpump pulley, makes it easier to do while the belt is still on, the pulley may still try and spin though like it did with me, however i wedged it with a screwdriver placed across the bolt heads.

P1080943.JPG


When those are loosened its time to remove the drive belt

Take your 13mm spanner and place on the tensioner bolt, act as though you are turning the bolt in an anti clockwise direction and the tensioner should move freeing up tension on the belt

P1070389.JPG


I find it easiest to pull the belt off the waterpump pulley

P1070390.JPG


once the belt is free undo the bolts on the waterpump pully fully, and remove the pulley

P1080945.JPG


P1080944.JPG


Remove the alternator which is held in my 2 15mm bolts and a 13mm you need to remove the bolts pointed in the diagram below, and the 10mm holding the power terminal on

P1080947.JPG


15mm bolt hiding round the back here

P1080949.JPG


You can then withdraw the alternator

P1080950.JPG


Remove the 10mm bolt holding the idler pulley on

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Remove the pulley

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Next up we need to remove the cambelt cover, there are 9 i think, 10mm bolts holding that on

P1080946.JPG


Its easier to show you there whereabouts on the removed cover

P1080976.JPG


Remove from car

P1080958.JPG


Now we need to drop the engine on that side to get better access, i thin kyou could probably do it without diong this but it makes it 10 times easier and also means you dont have to have an exact length extension bar for access

support engine with block of wood and jack

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Undo 3 15mm bolts here on the mount

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Then the 3 threaded bars, that are undone using the E8 star socket

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GENTLY lower the engine to give you better access to the waterpump, viewed from underneath the car

P1080970.JPG


There are 6 10mm bolts holding it on, the first threee are easiest undone from above, the rest from underneath, again better to show you where they are on the removed pump, this is pictured in the same orientation it is when attached to the car

P1080975.JPG


try and avoid damaging the cambelt undoing some of them on the extreme left, also bear in mind when you undo them all water will drip from it

When all are out you can remove from the car, be aware excess water/coolant that doesnt get drained will fall out from it

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withdraw from car

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clean up mating face etc

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Then fit your new pump and gasket on in reverse order to removal.

Bear in mind the following

Torque the nuts on the new waterpump to 9nm
Torque the nuts on the waterpump pulley to 25nm

When refitting the belt fit around the pulleys depending on your configuration below

beltsac.jpg


beltsnoac.jpg


If im doing it on my own i find easiest to wrap around all the pulleys and leave the power steering pump until last, then slacken the tensioner and push over the pulley.

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Make sure the belt is seated correct on all pulleys, there are groove for the ribs in the belt to sit in. Worthwhile giving the engine a turn over with a 19mm socket on the crank pulley to check its all seated ok.

If all looks good refit the weather shield.

Retighten the radiator drain plug, and fill back up with coolant 50/50 mix, 3l of coolant 3l of water.

Let car warm fully with cap off expansion tank squeezing coolant pipes, letting any bubbles come out, recheck level and correct as necessary. Check water levels for the next few days of running.

Disclaimer: If you have aircon there may be an extra step early on to remove an extra pulley, i think the powersteering pulley also needs to be removed also on aircon models only
 
Excellent guide Steve!

It has been >described< before but the pictures above are invaluable!
 
An updates for the Aircon equiped cars

The cam belt cover could not be removed due the top rear pulley for the PAS. In addition one of the bolts for the cover is under the pulley and almost impossible to remove and would be impossible to refit.

To get around this loosen the three 13mm nuts on the rear of the block that secure the PAS pump bracket to the block. These are difficult to see, easier to feel from above. The lower one is easier to undo from below. No need to completely remove the nuts. Also remove the 10mm bolt from the top of the same bracket, this one is easy to get at. Once these four are loosened/removed the PAS pump & bracket can be moved backwards away from the block enough to get the belt cover off/on.

p.s. A key to the pulleys on the belt drawings above would be useful. Otherwise a great guide.
 
Excellent guide. Can we add the descriptions of the pulleys to the drawing as mentioned? (what are pulley no's 2 & 3? Is 3 the alternator?)
 
beltsac.jpg

1 - Drive Belt
2 - Drive Belt Idler Pulley
3 - Alternator Pulley
4 - A/C Compressor Pulley
5 - Crankshaft Pulley
6 - Water Pump Pulley
7 - Drive Belt Tensioner
8 - Power Steering Pump Pulley

beltsnoac.jpg

1 - Drive Belt
2 - Drive Belt Idler Pulley
3 - Alternator Pulley
4 - Power Steering Pump Pulley
5 - Crankshaft Pulley
6 - Water Pump Pulley
7 - Drive Belt Tensioner
 
hi,been on here for a while but never posted but have a problem.Has anyone got a easy way of loosening power steering bracket as i cannot get a socket on square enough so i can complete a water pump change
 
you need a deep 13mm socket ideally for the three that go over the studs....10mm socket for the small bolt at the top..

usually I find on most engines these nuts are PLASTERED with oil, dirt and CV grease from bodged boots...

:grin:
 
thanks el dude found that sleeping on it helped, top bolt was a 15 mm and found that i had loosened one. But water pump back on and running quieter
 
thankyou great instructions i shall change my waterpump after i have had a new cambelt fitted at a garage got a quote for new cambelt and fitting for £150 which i thought is very reasonable thankyou
:thumbs:
 
Wouldn't it make more sense to A. get the garage to do it for you at the same time or B do it before the cambelt change?
 
yes it would make more sense to have garage do it at same time as the cambelt change i will go back to the garage and get another quote thankyou Red
:thumbs:
also i was trying to keep the cost down
 
THANK YOU :) ,... my pully is going on the waterpump and I've been struggling to get the cam cover off all morning (Got A/C) this guide is a life saver. thank you thank you thank you!
 
Si7 said:
Excellent guide. Can we add the descriptions of the pulleys to the drawing as mentioned? (what are pulley no's 2 & 3? Is 3 the alternator?)
yes 3 is definatly the alternator
:thumbs:
 
Did this on Thursday what a pig!!! it was dark and raining but got it done thanks. :p
 
Just a quick add to the list off tools/equipment you may need, half way through "Body of water over 5 foot deep and a strong friend!" :lol:
 
Who ever made this post and posted all the pictures thank you so helpful. All I would add to it is to take the screw out of the bracket for coolant tank so it moves a bit. It just helps with access to the back of the block to get to the PAS pump bolts.

But really really helpful.

Thank you
 
Just done this in mine today, thanks so much for posting this, brilliant guide. :grin: :eek:k:
 

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