Sounds like a 3 cylinder

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SleepyDawg said:
For example, I'd like to know if it's possible that in the case of an ECU with no ground connection, power will reach the coil pack..
You misunderstood what the guy told you.
SleepyDawg said:
He said the ECU is getting current but it delivers no ground
One thing is ground to the ECU for it to operate, the other is delivery of ground to the sensors and other stuff. The voltage of the car network is 12V. Most sensors, however, work on 5V. That voltage is supplied by ECU. Also, in most cases, the ECU is also delivering ground for those sensors. We are talking here about camshaft position sensor, crankshaft position sensor, MAF, IAT, water temperature etc... So, it is quite possible that your ECU is not delivering the ground is should to one of the sensors (making it inoperative). However, I am more inclined to think you have a wiring problem. These cars are now 20 years old and Ford has never, to the best of my knowledge, been putting grease in electrical oconnectors as japanese manufacturers were doing in the same era (hence they have bullet proof wiring and electronics). Of course, the wiring problems are the most difficuilt ones to trace down and the mechanics hate them and will do everything else just to avoid messing around with wires.
 
You say that you replaced both the coilpack and leads.
Immediately prior to this did you have a spark?
I am wondering if your new coilpack is faulty or that the new leads don't fit the coilpack correctly as there were 2 types of coilpacks on these cars and the lead /coilpack needs to be a match pair but not necessarily of the same make.

Did you try refitting the old parts to see if the spark returns?
 
First of all, thanks to everyone who returned to this post to help. Starting with DOH's questions:

"You say that you replaced both the coilpack and leads.
Immediately prior to this did you have a spark?"

It had good spark in only 2 of the leads. As for the others, one of the leads had a weak spark and the other (number 1) had none. The car actually managed to start, but it would struggle to maintain idle and eventually it wouldn't start any more. Then I bought the new stuff, everything was replaced and as soon as the mechanic realized the car was still not starting he tried different combinations: new coil, old leads; new leads, old coil, etc. Despite not starting, the car seemed to prefer the old coil, the old leads and even the old spark plugs. The new leads don't fit as nicely in neither of the coil packs as the old ones. However, while attempting to start the car the old coil got very hot. The mechanic couldn't explain why.

@Wild E. Coyote
That makes much ,more sense now, thanks for explaining it so well. I also agree with your inkling that it must be a wiring problem. I know the problem is totally unrelated, but the insulation of the wires of the headlights, for example, disintegrates when I touch it.

@CherryVimto "if there is power getting to the coil pack, is there enough power?"
I'm not sure of that, I'll have to ask that to the electrician. I haven't been able to talk with him for days, but hopefully tomorrow (Monday) I'll get a hold of them and see what he has to say.
Cheers.
 
SleepyDawg said:
@CherryVimto "if there is power getting to the coil pack, is there enough power?"

This is the key question. Given your expirience with the light insulation falling apart, I'd say you have a connection but not good enough. So the coilpack has shortage of power needed to fire sparks as needed.
 
Wild E. Coyote said:
SleepyDawg said:
@CherryVimto "if there is power getting to the coil pack, is there enough power?"

This is the key question. Given your expirience with the light insulation falling apart, I'd say you have a connection but not good enough. So the coilpack has shortage of power needed to fire sparks as needed.

Finally, managed to get a hold of the man: the coil pack is not getting ground from the ECU. The ECU communicates perfectly with his diagnostics tool but it does not send any signal to the coil pack (just like you explained). I'm still hoping it's just a knackered wire, though...
 
If it was 1.7 model, the pins on ECU you would be looking for would be 26 and 52. Sadly, I don't have them on me for 1.4 version. But maybe someone else here has pinout for 1.4?
If you find pins, the wiring check is very straightforward: just use a 1.5V battery and a small light bulb and try it over the suspected wire. If the bulb lights up, the wire is OK...
 
Wild E. Coyote said:
If it was 1.7 model, the pins on ECU you would be looking for would be 26 and 52. Sadly, I don't have them on me for 1.4 version. But maybe someone else here has pinout for 1.4?
If you find pins, the wiring check is very straightforward: just use a 1.5V battery and a small light bulb and try it over the suspected wire. If the bulb lights up, the wire is OK...

As it is, it seems the ECU really isn't in good nick. The electrician removed it, and he found corrosion outside and inside the protective casing. There was a tiny bit of crust on one of the chips as well. He's taking it to a specialist to see if he can bring it back to live. In case he doesn't, I need to source another one and where I live (rather tiny place) they are extremely hard to find, particularly the ones which match exactly the part number one mine. I wonder if anyone here has one for sale? part number= XS6F-12A650-APB
 
Just for giggles I searched for that part number and the first hit (duckduckgo) was this:
https://www.actronics.co.uk/ecu/eec-v-60pins-ford/DP6ZFXS6F12A650APB

Guess what it listed as common problems:
-Engine runs poorly on idle
-Signal to ignition coils is missing!!!!

There are a few on eBay too.
 
Van_Dammesque said:
Just for giggles I searched for that part number and the first hit (duckduckgo) was this:
https://www.actronics.co.uk/ecu/eec-v-60pins-ford/DP6ZFXS6F12A650APB

Guess what it listed as common problems:
-Engine runs poorly on idle
-Signal to ignition coils is missing!!!!

There are a few on eBay too.

Top man! :grin:
 

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