Project Puma 'Black'

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New modification - front footwell lamps!

This was something I had been pondering for some time, but only recently came up with a solution using only genuine Ford parts.

I used the following, stolen from a rather tired looking '92 Granada;

2 x 6136623 - lamp lens
2 x 7158623 - bulb holder (and 2 x 501 capless bulb)
dual core cable
various bullet and spade type crimp connectors
Velcro

FootwellLamps001.jpg


The tricky thing is working out how to mount the bulb holder under the dash, as footwell lamps were never fitted to Fiesta '95, there is no existing provision. However, the lamp lens is also a mount for the bulb holder, so by mounting the bulb holder in the lens the opposite way around, bingo you have a mount that can be fitted to the underside of the dash, this is where the velcro comes in.

So the first step is to go out to the car and estimate just how much cable you are going to need, starting from the interior lamp, down the A pillar, under the dash to the middle of the drivers footwell, then across to the middle of the passenger footwell.

FootwellLamps002.jpg


Add the hook velcro to the flat part of the lens

FootwellLamps003.jpg


Depending upon where exactly you decide to mount the passenger side lamp, you may need to trim the redundant end of the lens to allow a better fit;

FootwellLamps004.jpg


So, to the wiring, I used spade connectors to make a loom that goes between the interior lamp wiring and the interior lamp it'self, but this is entirely down to you.

Remove the drivers side sun visor - the two screws on the hinged part are easy, you need a small screwdriver to pop open the cap over the screw for the retaining clip, but once the screw is out, actually getting the retaining clip out is a nightmare. No useful hints here other than pull really hard.

Remove the drivers A pillar trim.

Remove the door seal from just above the top of the A pillar down to the footwell.

FootwellLamps005a.jpg


Run the wiring, securing it behind the existing clamps on the A pillar, careful with your heated screen wiring on the way;

FootwellLamps006.jpg


Apply loop velcro to the underside of the dash in your selected location, shown here behind the glovebox;

FootwellLamps010.jpg


Connect everything up and bingo;

FootwellLamps008.jpg


I did take one of the drivers side too, but never thought to turn off the flash!
 
They look pretty snazzy. Ive always liked a bit of illumination. Lights built into the door that come on when you open them would be a great touch if you could do it.
 
Well this week we have sailed through an MoT, swapped the spare to a 7J to match the wheels on the car, changed the 20.5mm spacers to 12.5mm items, had a quick service, AND upgraded from FRP to ST170 discs on the back.

Next job is to finish painting the calipers red.

Pics soon!
 
Just some new pics, no real changes, still haven't fitted the ST170 front brakes with uprated pads, also now planning an alcantara trimmed headlining.

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Looking good :)

I like the footwell illumination, very effective :cool:
 
I really want some fatter disc braks like yours. Sounds like you did most of this stuff yourself - are you a mechanic or something? How do you know where the wiring is and stuff, like for the footwells? It's a good mod.
 
Not a mechanic, I just have access to a garage from time to time.

Brakes are a good mod, even if only to fill the wheels better.

The wiring is easy, just tap into the existing interior light and run the wiring down one of the A-pillars.
 
hey there. great car! love the dedication to ford parts as well!

quick question..

I have already installed lights in my footwell and door cars (4 quantity) but mine run on a switch based circuit each having their own switch.

after the novelty ran off I have stopped using them at night so i thought it would be nice to have them come on and off with the interior light like yours?

now each of the lights already have a fused power direct from the battery and already have a earth each.

how would you wire those power cables to the interior light? would you splice in one place and attach all 4 wires or would you be wary of this for over heating?

hope to hear from you soon as I am going to start exposing the wires today.
 
Wire them together, with their own fused supply, and use a relay from the interior lighting circuit. I am guessing, but it sounds logical!
 
Fitted my FRP style air box yesterday, which was a bloody awful job, also washed the engine bay, pics below Anyone doing similar should check the bottom of the battery box, as mine was full of water.

I am getting a creaking from the exhaust, so I think my torque limiter may be on it's way out.

ST170 calipers have been refurbished, so I need to paint the non-contact parts of my new discs and get those fitted. Like a muppet, I painted the ST170 calipers before sending them to be refurbished, so they are now painted gold, with black carriers. Given that I have only painted the rear carriers so far, it could easily all be going gold.

So, I am expecting a visit to the garage soon to swap the calipers, with new discs & Mintex 1144's, fit the larger front anti-roll bar and have a look at the dodgy torque limiter.

I have a spare Milltek Evo exhaust that I am toying with fitting. My reluctance is that there won't be any power increase, I like my current tail pipe (Piper FRP), and the Evo's flexi means that it doesn't use the front mount, so I am not sure if I should bother or not.

Fruits of my labours;

enginebaySep09001.jpg


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and one of Rhonda the Honda;

enginebaySep09001.jpg


AutoGlym Engine & Machine Cleaner is pretty impressive stuff!
 
Took the day off today and collected a new l/h engine mount, torque restrictor, exhaust manifold gasket and pair of rear beam bushes.

Things were going well, battert out, got the old engine mount off and fitted the new one, old torque link out and new one in, got most of the FRP exhaust system off, new Milltek rear box on, stripped down the rear beam, got the top mounting nuts / bolt off the manifold, and then had to ask for help from one of the mechanics.

New OE rear beam bushes in, rebuilt the beam, had to space out my o/s/r ABS sensor to stop it fouling the tone wheel, fingers crossed that it it still close enough to get a reading.

Dean (technician) took over on the manifold while I got the rellevant torques. Everything was going fine up until I misread the torque setting for the studs which connect to the n/s engine mount and sheared the stud. Bugger. So now the Milltek EVO, sport cat, etc. is all in, but I am now waiting for a replacement engine support before I can drive it, and as the battery box has to be removed to access the mount, I haven't heard it running with the new Milltek EVO exhaust, which I am hoping I will like, and that it is going to be a bit quieter on the motorway than my Piper FRP, though the Piper FRP back box is GORGEOUS.

Also looking forward to trying the car with standard bushes, and hoping the new engine mount will mean that I can have a lower strut brace without it fouling the gearbox.

The torque link was replaced as the engine's movement was causing the FRP exhaust to creak, that has now been replaced by a Milltek with a flexi, but torque restrictor was clearly on it's way out.

Next jobs are;

Treat / protect the underside from corrosion.
Fiesta Zetec-S front anti-roll bar
ST170 front brakes
Lower strut brace
 
Yep, followed 3Ddunk's instructions, but used solid drain pipe all the way to just behind the grille.

Not sure about a noticable change in performance, but looking at inlet temps they seem to drop a bit quicker.
 
Collected the car yesterday, and immediately had to drive a circa 250 mile round trip, really like the sound of the new exhaust; the OE rear beam bushes are a definately an improvement, for non-aggressive driving at least, and thanks to the new engine mounts it all feels much more taut that it did. I would thoroughly recommend new engine mounts / torque link to anyone with a Puma, chances are by now the rubber in the originals will be a bit tired, possibly cracking.

New exhaust tailpipe;

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Excuse the quality, camera phone, but I am thinking that I may get an FRP tailpipe to weld on.
 
I sometimes think that about my miltek exhaust tip but then i remember how annoying it used to be to clean the FRP style one with that bar in the middle lol.

Also the FRP tip isn't stainless so it's a bit awkward to weld onto the stainless but is do-able!

I've a spare I was contemplating doing that with!
 
I obviously never cleaned mine properly!

I'd had real reservations about the Milltek, and while I am still not 101% about the look, hence the desire for an FRP tail, the noise is much better.
 

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