ABS LIGHT ON

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dstroi

New member
Joined
Aug 19, 2012
Messages
118
Hi all, my car's just back from garage getting a new center pipe put on and I've noticed the ABS light on and the traction control light(?) on. Mechanic swears he didn't touch anything. Brakes seem to be fine. Any ideas? i don't have a code reader,maybe a trip to dealer? Any help would be grateful
 
If its to do with the work that the car has just had, first place to check is the rear loom, comes down behind the fuel tank where there's a joint, then across the beam to both sides.

May also be co-incidence.

Note that most cheaper code readers won't find the ABS fault so your options are limited to a dealer or someone who had the right gear.
 
Cheers i'll get her jacked up at have a look, i'm thinking he's done something but its hard to prove,only noticed well after i picked car up :-(
 
Mine came on a couple of weeks ago, right before the dreaded MOT :x
Going to replace front and rear sensors regardless.
 
Ian G said:
Note that most cheaper code readers won't find the ABS fault so your options are limited to a dealer or someone who had the right gear.

Not necessary true! I have ELM327 OBD scanner (11 GBP over eBay) and hook it up to a laptop (pretty sure everyone here has a working PC). Have put forscan on it (http://www.forscan.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) which is free and it does BOTH ABS tests. You can do ABS module test while te car is standing and rolling test as well to read each wheel speed. That should be pretty conclusive.

I have never seen IDS and what kind of tests it can pull off, but Forscan can do pretty much everything there is to be done on a simple car like puma..?
 
dstroi said:
what kind of connection should i be looking for?

I bought wifi version. It enables using both PC and iPhone (and yes, there is iOS version of Forscan in preparation!) and is easier (no messing with cables!)
If you go for WiFi, check the site, there is useful info on setting it up to enable best performance
 
That's why I said most ;)

I've got an ELM327 box myself but not set it up yet, certainly far cheaper than the next nearest alternative but it does require the software and a laptop available, I was referring to the standalone type of readers which are far handier for reading the generic codes.
 
Ah, ok! Have a look at forscan (http://www.forscan.org" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;) it is really impressive piece of kit, It allows you even to configure the injectors on a diesel engine after change. Plus, it is free and they are working on iOS version that can be set up on your iPhone making it even easier to use!
Setting it up is 5 min job, literally!
 
Can someone point me in the direction of a cable for a laptop,there seems to be many many cables on eBay,just need one that somebody personally knows works thanks,
oh and where to get front and rear sensors from,apart from the stealers sorry dealers
 
I have a WiFi OBD scanner….

The sensors: you will find the plenty of them on eBay. General concensus is that even the chep(est) ones are OK and work reliably
 
can someone point me in the direction of a cable for a laptop not Bluetooth not WiFi,not android,just a plain and simple cable connection pleeease
and replacing the abs sensors is it just a simple case of plug in and off we go?
 
I have a usb diagnostic module. It's was not much use for the ABS fault. I have now bough a wifi one...

Measuring sensor resistance for open circuit (or 1100Ω) is a reliable method.

Swapping front sensors is straight forward but takes a fair effort. I don't know about the rears. Once replaced it's just a question of doing a drive cycle and waiting for the lights to go out.
 
Ian G said:
If its to do with the work that the car has just had, first place to check is the rear loom, comes down behind the fuel tank where there's a joint, then across the beam to both sides.

May also be co-incidence.

Note that most cheaper code readers won't find the ABS fault so your options are limited to a dealer or someone who had the right gear.

I've now managed to have the codes read,very nice man at Aberdeen Autoelectricals, and had a look underneath the car :x
the codes are: C1165 -Speed Wheel Sensor RR input circuit failure
C1235 Speed Wheel RR input signal missing
and as i strongly suspected and the nice man also confirmed, it looks like the bodger sorry mechanic used an oxy torch to get the center pipe off and the hot pipe has landed on to the wires,melting them and causing the fault :evil: :evil: :evil: !!!!!!!!!!
 
feeling extremely violent at the moment!! gonna take a while to cool off, better not work on the car :'(
 
Is there a guide for replacing the mentioned sensors and wiring on the forum site? ,will the Haynes fiesta manual be of any use? just as well this happened after the MOT!!
 
Take it back to the garage and point out where he damaged the loom and demand the loom be replaced or you will go to trading standards. Even better if you can get the guy who pointed it out to speak up on your side.
 

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