angel eyes wiring

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mihalyn90

Member
Joined
Nov 24, 2015
Messages
531
Hello,

So i want to buy a pair of 90mm halo led ring.

all fine till here... but, can somebody help me out with a wiring?

I want to get the power from sidelight. That is fine it's direct red to red, black to black.

But i want to work like this:

side light on -> angel eyes on
Dipped beam on -> angel eyes OFF, sidelight ON...

any idea of a 12V small relay circuitry?



L.E.

As i read, you need to wire the HALO RED wire to SIDELIGHT POSITIVE, and HALO BLACK (ground) to DIPPED BEAM POSITIVE.
This way, when side light is on, the halo will get it's ground through the bulb, to ground.
When switched on, the ground will become positive and will kick out the HALO.

is this right?

Thanks,
 
Pretty sure that won't work, if you have the halo earthing through the dipped beam then you will be powering the dipped beam bulb,. This is going to give you a problem with your halo wiring as it won't be up to that power.

Best way probably is to get a drl control box, this could then be wired up with dip beam feed to the indicator wires on the control box, that way it should cut the halo when dip is on. But you can't then turn off the halo when indicators flash. Though that could be done with diodes in both the indicator feed and the dip beam feed.
Though if you wire up drl control properly, then halo will dim when dip beam is on but turn off when indicators are on.
 
It will be hard to connect anything in to the indicator circuit due to how it's wired.

I had a DRl module installed in my previous Puma along with an auto headlight on unit. I wanted to wire the DRLs in to the indicator circuit so the DRLs dimmed when indicating.
I couldn't do it because the indicator circuit is always switching between on/off when operating - the circuit is NOT constantly live!
Without looking through wiring diagrams, it seems that the indicator circuits are wired in such a way that the flasher relay is actually in the neutral which causes the entire circuit to switch on/off.

Wiring the halo black to the dipped beam positive will only make the dipped beam turn on. That could overload the circuit.

I'm pretty sure you can get a relay with enough terminals to give both normally open and normally closed contacts. You could use that to switch the circuits on and off depending on what you want.
 
Some of the new drl control boxes are supposed to turn off drl when indicators flash. I've bought one but not fitted it yet as I'm going to want to redo wiring for drl and indicators in the bumper.
So I'll post up once I fit it, with the results.
 
well i'll try and see... although what i said was written on other forums... so i see as it should work... the resistance in the bulb i think is higher... i see what will be going on :)

i don't have any idea what are you trying to do with the INDICATOR... i am talking about parking light...
 
The indicator was mentioned in another post.

Yes, the DRl modules may turn the DRLs off when the indicators flash, but the DRLs would turn on/off along with the indicators unless the DRL module was clever enough to convert the indicator on/off to a constant live to keep the DRLs off...
 
i got this from another forum:

Move the ground wire from your LED strips to the positive wire of the low beams. When the low beams are off that low beam +wire shoud be enough of a ground path for the LEDs to illuminate. When you turn on the low beams the LEDs will no longer have a ground path and they will turn off.
I always see this kind of circuit suggested for different usage, and I think it is working since so many people suggested similar thing before, but I really don't understand how can this work......

When low beam off, isn't the park light will also provide power to the low beam relay?
It doesn't always work depending on the situation.

In your question you think it will turn on the headlight relay (and it possibly could if you tapped into the +wire feeding the head light relay instead of the +wire feeding the lamp or ballast itself).

This trick works because the headlight has a permanent ground and the LEDs will find that ground passing through the headlight bulb or ballast when the headlights are off. As soon as you turn on the lights that wire is now just as positive as the feed wire to the LEDs so no current will flow.


This trick would not fire up the ballast or light the bulb since the LEDs take so very little power to run they can't possibly pass enough current to turn on the bulb or ballast since they probably only use about 100-200 mA.
 
mihalyn90 said:
[post]352015[/post] i got this from another forum:

Move the ground wire from your LED strips to the positive wire of the low beams. When the low beams are off that low beam +wire shoud be enough of a ground path for the LEDs to illuminate. When you turn on the low beams the LEDs will no longer have a ground path and they will turn off.
I always see this kind of circuit suggested for different usage, and I think it is working since so many people suggested similar thing before, but I really don't understand how can this work......

When low beam off, isn't the park light will also provide power to the low beam relay?
It doesn't always work depending on the situation.

In your question you think it will turn on the headlight relay (and it possibly could if you tapped into the +wire feeding the head light relay instead of the +wire feeding the lamp or ballast itself).

This trick works because the headlight has a permanent ground and the LEDs will find that ground passing through the headlight bulb or ballast when the headlights are off. As soon as you turn on the lights that wire is now just as positive as the feed wire to the LEDs so no current will flow.


This trick would not fire up the ballast or light the bulb since the LEDs take so very little power to run they can't possibly pass enough current to turn on the bulb or ballast since they probably only use about 100-200 mA.
That does look like it makes sense and could possibly work, but something I personally would be a little dubious in doing.

If you do try it, please post up whether it worked or not. Would be a simple idea if it works! :eek:k:
 
yes it would... depends all on the resistance of the halogen bulb... :D

otherwise, an SPDT relay could be used...
 
These will look great, will you be doing a how to guide when its done. Would like to see the finished result.
 
That does look good, the wiring sounds like a mind field, how did you get the halo light inside the unit.
I'm sure I read something about halo lights a few years ago on this site, that may help.
I did a quick search, looks like you can get a few colours, not sure what would be legal apart from white. Hope you get it sorted.
 
The wiring is simple...

Halo inside:
O_91c32911e96c01fee9b0dcd674e40368.jpg

Legal? :)) any modification to the actual design, intensity, color of the light will make a MOT fail.

at least in romania... we are not allowed to put on DRL... so...
 
I used the hot glue gun yesterday for the frp air box MOD, sticky stuff, so that should work, just need to wait till they arrive now.
 
i got the notif. for them that they just arrived :D

and 90mm are too big so... pair of 90 out for sale...
 
I made the same mistake, so the 70mm will do the dip light, 80mm will do the high beam, you will also need to cut two small notches to allow the 80mm halo to pass through, the hot glue gun is best to secure, I wired these up-to the side light, so both come on, and when the driving lights come on, they blend into the background. The only downside I can see is, the halo have a light yellow tint to them, due the the material use, but the white diffuser helps, and the second is , as there is a gap inbetween the light itself and the black surround, you can see the hot glue. But I'm sure it's only because I'm picky and the guy walking past in the street wouldn't notice.
I've done one side, so I'll try and improve on the glue for the other side.

I'm going to use the spare 90mm for the boot, as the current bulb is poor. I was also thinking of getting a few small one,s and put the in the footwell, and wire them up-to the door light, to create some mood lighting, you can get these in various colours, so it's just something a little different.
 
Would LED tape not be better for the footwells and boot?

Dan and I have tried some high quality LED tape from electrical wholesalers and obviously it works without a driver, just get the 12v stuff :)
 
I hadn't thought about how to secure them in the boot/foot well, so thanks for the info on the tape, I'll have a look for some.
 
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