Engine Cooling fan not working

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eazy

New member
Joined
Feb 16, 2015
Messages
31
Hi there,

Right my engine cooling fan doesn't kick in ever and its worrying me as a few times the car has dumped some water from a heater hose that leads from the HCV to engine. This is the shorter one nearside of the car.

I read somewhere in here that the A/C button should make the fan go on low speed. this isnt working either.

I also disconnected the the plug from the ECT Sensor just under the coil pack and then the fan came on :) happy days. Went to euro car parts, bought new one £21 vat included. Put it in, no joy. Erased the Trouble code to put out my Engine management light. The code was for the ECT sensor/wiring I assume came on since I pulled the ECT Sensor plug out. Still same fan wont come on even with the A/C button on.

Would the relays be OK since the fan did run with the ECT Sensor plug off?

On the back of the fan I have one plug near the centre and I can see another at the bottom nearside. What is this, a resistor maybe? I dunno yet. I keep seeing in posts something about a ballast resistor but the images are missing.

The needle remains ever so slightly over the halfway mark.

Whatever else should I check?
 
The connection on the fan in the middle is for high speed and the lower one which is a resistor is low speed.

I believe by default the fan will come on on high speed if there is a fault with the low speed circuit.

When you pulled the plug under the coil pack, what speed did the fan come on?
If it actually worked, then we can assume that that relay is OK.

There is a relay for each speed.
 
seemed fast but as i've never seen it work before I cant be sure. I can hear it whirl from inside the car.
 
Most likely be fast speed then. If that was the case there may be a fault with the low speed circuit.
Possible faulty relay or resistor in the fan.
 
See the resistor on the fan, does tat have a technical term. keep trying to find them on google, amazon but can only find HCV's
 
Update :- Thinking the resistor is ok, I realised my rad wasn't getting hot. Changed thermostat rad now gets hot.

But then water was escaping somewhere else. Found a slit in the HCV hose that goes to the engine. The short one on the nearside. I want to go to scrappys tomorrow and acquire one, as I am now car-less. Can anyone tell me if its got to be a puma I get this off. A fiesta is probably way more easy to find ya know?

Still haven't got the fan to work btw.
 
PumaNoob said:
That's it, the 1 wire grounds on the block.

I posted the 2 wire values earlier, but here they are again

0 degrees = around 1700 ohms
70degrees = around 460ohms.
100 degrees = around 200ohms.
So your readings from your 2 wire were way off the mark!

Are these resistances correct?

Testing both my old and new ECT Sensor the reading I'm getting on both using a freshly boiled kettle is 3.50 with the multimeter set to 20k (only reads 1 . if lower). So if I'm doing it right then thats 3,000ohms near 100 deg cel. :?

I got the new one from eurocarparts.... This might be my problem. Its just why are the 2 values on both ETC's soo similar, hence the reason why im confused.

Sorry for this but I'm about to pull my hair out and scream I think.
 
Now that I put a piece of wire bridging the the gap in the fan resistor plug the fan will come on when at temperature. And the car is ok when stationary. When the car is moving it seems ok until I close of the heater then the temp will shoot right up, sometimes the fan comes on sometimes not strait away. It does lower when I open the heater valve. I will get 'colder' air when the valve is closed. Strange, but could their be a blockage and where would be the best place too look?

I also tested the new thermostat yesterday and it opened in a pan of boiling water. I did notice the thermo was stamped 85'c which I think might be 3 degrees higher than the original ford part. Should the 3 degrees create these symptoms I'm unsure as the thing still seems to work regardless.
 

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