Project Silver, PIC HEAVY

[Voa]

Relearning process is imo a bit of a myth or anything the ecu does is pretty minor, but if there is any truth in it, then its probably a good thing if anything as its starting fresh each time and not running as per old adaptation values

Can see the positives and negatives to this , the trickle charge process probably kills the battery slowly and the gel type batteries can retain there charge for long period of times without being trickly charged.My only concern would be that not using the car without any charge going though the electrical ccts on the car and then applying current would probably shorten or lead to failure somewhere.i.e similar to what you get with soldered connections......

 

[ScubaSteve]

well its what dms advised with my literature lol.

know a guy whos got one on a 500bhp skyline and 300bhp impreza track cars and he leaves his isolated for months at a time and his batterys have been fine for 3 years so far

 

[Voa]

lol yeah seen your epic thread on the other forum .........

 

[PumaNoob]

The re-learning process is definitely NOT a myth. If your engine is in a "new" condition, then the ecu wont have to adjust to anything, but with the modifications ive done in the past, you can actually feel and see the ecu learning. To get the most out of the injectors, i had to turn the fuel pressure up to around 3.5 bar. That obviusly shortens the injector timing, but when you reset the ecu, it geos back to the 2.7bar settings, so runs really rich, and you can see it on the air/fuel ratio gauge. Once the ECU has adjusterd, it starts & drives like that until the battery is disconnected and it has to learn again!

With regards to the battery ampage, a larger amp battery lasts a lot longer without charging, or inbetween charges. The clue is in the name, ah stands for amp hours! So in theory, a 25ah battery should go for 1.67 times longer then a 15ah battery, providing they were both drawing the same power. But the puma, with all its electrics, lights, fans, alarm ect, is reccomended to have a 54ah battery, and that only lasts about a week and a half without charge, and i dont want to have to take the battery out to keep trickle charging before i use it, so i think steve is right, im not going to be driving this car every day, is will just be a weekend car, so its probably not a good idea to fit one without an isolator switch unless you are prapared to keep charging it when you dont drive it for more then a few days.

The less mods you have, the less problems you would have with the ecu resetting itself, but you would still have to re set the clock every time you wanted it right, and you'd still have to re set radio presets and settings every time you wanted to use them. Its only small things, but i had a stereo wired into my car with no perm live, and had to do this every time i got in the car, and it gets really annoying having to keep doing it, rather then it just coming on as you like, with your favourite station playing.

So even a 25ah battery wont suffice, i dont think ill settle for anything less then 45ah.

Cheers for the imput though guys, nice to get other peoples experience/advice on things!

 

[ScubaSteve]

im considering disconnecting the clock and fitting a 9v battery into it, may not work just an idea

 

[Voa]

With intelligent chargers you don't take the battery out to charge the ctek charges is the stuff used with high end cars and plugs into the charger socket and intelligently charges the battery pulse charging ...

I think you will find the Varley , odyssey batteries are not just gel construction but the lead plates inside the battery are 99.9% pure lead and not lead alloy hence more plate surface area ......

This means more cranking power and longer charge retention

see the carp on the odyssey site http://www.odysseybattery.com/batteries.html

 

[Voa]

im considering disconnecting the clock and fitting a 9v battery into it, may not work just an idea

May be an idea Steve heard this mentioned to me before but just didn't look into it as I am a lazy git lol

 

[PumaNoob]

I was actually thinking this, but i was thinking more along the lines of attaching a rechargable 9v, then once the car was running, it would charge the battery, making it self maintaining. Not surer if it would work, but just an idea.

 

[ScubaSteve]

wonder if it would put too much charge into though and blow it up lol

 

[Voa]

wonder if it would put too much charge into though and blow it up lol

If you are using a 9v you can use this you may find this link useful

http://convert-to.com/491/recharging-rechargeable-nimh-nicd-batteries.html

Some resistors in series?

 

[yippeekiay]

Sorry for going slightly OT but Errol, where did you put your sensor for the A/F meter. I really need to get mine fitted but not sure whether to put the sensor in the manifold close to the head or in the downpipe just before the cat. The latter is definately the easiest but I'm concerned the reading may be diluted slightly being much further away from the head.

Cheers.

 

[PumaNoob]

IIRC, you are supposed to fit them downstream of the head (or turbo in my case) between 800mm and 1 meter, but obviusly before a cat if you have one fitted. Its to allow an average reading of all 4 cylinders because theyve properly mixed by then. The reading wont be diluted because the o2 content wont change properties except temp. Youd need to fit an EGT gauge as close to the head as possible, but an AF can be in the tail pipe, as long as its pre cat! If you go to a rolling rd, or even an MOT tester, they put the probe (probably shouldnt say this with the likes of you and steve getting carried away) up your tail pipe!! :lol:

 

[yippeekiay]

Cheers, that was my thoughts but needed confirmation. Downpipe it is, just before the cat. Now all I need is to find someone to fit the boss.

Had my tailpipe probed last week when the puma had it's MOT. Why he didn't use it on the car is anyones guess, but hey, must be a new part of the MOT so no complaints....lol. :lol:

 

[PumaNoob]

Cheers, that was my thoughts but needed confirmation. Downpipe it is, just before the cat. Now all I need is to find someone to fit the boss.

Had my tailpipe probed last week when the puma had it's MOT. Why he didn't use it on the car is anyones guess, but hey, must be a new part of the MOT so no complaints....lol. :lol:

LOL!!! :lol: I knew i might be asking for trouble writing that!! Id expect nothing less!

 

[PumaNoob]

What diff do you have fitted, is it a plate type? And what oil are you using in your box? Ive heard a lot of places that you need to use a different type of oil for an LSD, but on researching it, it seems that standard 75w90 oil is best so the syncro mesh isnt damaged! The suppliers of my diff reccomend a fully synthetic oil, but they are talking about whats good for the diff, and not neciserilly the gearbox.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Quaife ATB which is gear type so standard ford spec trans oil is fine, also checked with quaife beforehand who said yeah its fine.

But yeah plate types do need diff oil

 

[PumaNoob]

Well thats what i thought, but it still seems that people are using the same oil with plate type diff's, and they are fine. I brought LSD diff oil, but i think im going to run with standard oil for now and see how it goes.

 

[ScubaSteve]

diff oil haha that could be confusing, i meant diff as in different but yeah i suppose different could mean diff oil too doh.

anyways i dont think it will cause much harm, just people talking breeze over the internet again imo

 

[PumaNoob]

Lol, yeah, keyboard warriors!!

Cheers for the advice anyways mate!

 

[fatdonger]

diff oil haha that could be confusing, i meant diff as in different but yeah i suppose different could mean diff oil too doh.

anyways i dont think it will cause much harm, just people talking breeze over the internet again imo

I have heard of shooting the breeze but not "talking breeze" ?