1.7 head removal

[madhillbilly17]

i can't remember the price to the pound but i brought 2 head gaskets to go either side of my decompression plate valve stem oil seals and head bolts and it cost under £90,i think i paid around £25 for the head gaskets each and around £20 for the bolts,when you do the valve stem oil seals the exhaust ones are slightly different to the inlet ones,the std ford ones come the same color but the ones i got from the motor factory were red and green,red for hot exhaust side and green for fresh air intake side lol.

 

[sean20]

im just about to go and get some bits now and my uncle is a manager in a motorfactors and i know the owner very well so i get all the parts for cost so hoping it wont be to bad

 

[sean20]

not Darren by any chance?

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

also remember not to pull the 5mm pin all the way out the tensioner before tightening the bolts to hold the kick back arm in place.

the smaller bolt is left finger loose until after the spring has been pulled

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

the only thing thats worrying me is the VCT pully, and worst thing is the unit where the garage is i get no internet signal incase i need to get on here

There isn't a great deal difference apart from a cap which needs removing to access it...then you need the right size female torx bit (don't even consider one that nearly fits :lol: ) and a good breaker bar....and it's 105nm which is tight!... you'll need to appose the force by holding the cam with a 20mm spanner...

all controlled and straight forward with the engine out and on a stand :lol:

the VCT is only really more faff if your removing it fully and re-assembling it...

Chris

 

[madhillbilly17]

also remember not to pull the 5mm pin all the way out the tensioner before tightening the bolts to hold the kick back arm in place.

the smaller bolt is left finger loose until after the spring has been pulled

its been a while lol,easier to do than explain

 

[sean20]

thanks for the help guys however the mechanic who originally did the timing and fitted the cams has agreed to sort it all out for me, iv just got to get it towed down there now.

however 2 other mechanics has had a quick look at it and they dont think its the head as its all been timed back up correctly now and its tirning over by hand fine and when you tirn the key just wont fire up, the one mechanic did say though that it aint sucking in much aire and he thinks that could be the problem

 

[madhillbilly17]

if its turning over but won't start it sounds like the inlet cam has been rotated 180 degrees so its upside down.just a idea

 

[sean20]

thanks il run that buy him see if he can check that. would that cause it to not suck in enough air?

 

[sean20]

is it possible for the inlet cam to be 180 out as the locking bar wont fit in if it was?

 

[madhillbilly17]

yeah it will the slots on the end of the cams will be straight at 180 degrees so the tool will fit in, but with the cam up the wrong way to match the exhaust cam,it doesn't matter which way up they are when its timed as long as they stay the same way up eg "dont rotate one cam 180 degrees without the other one" they have to stay together so the cam lobes push the valves down in the right order,1 full turn of the crank = 180 degrees on the cams,2 full turns of the crank = 360 degrees on the cams= 1 full turn of the cams.


im not saying its 100% what he's done but it's one of the possibility

 

[sean20]

When we had the cam cover of. Looking at it from the cam belt side that the lobes on the inlet cam and outlet cam on the first cylinder werea both pointing inwards