Boot lock seized???

[MerthO]

Hi everyone, I am coming in with a question regarding the rear lock.

I have a 2001 car with central locking but without remote control, so I have to unlock the car by turning the key in one of the front door. Ever since I bought the car, I could never unlock the boot via the rear lock. I unlocks through the front door and the releasing button works just fine. But when I insert the key to the rear lock, I manage to turn it only by this much:

Which seems too little to me. I tried spraying inside of the lock with a WD-40 and I noticed that it was rust coloured when it was flushed out of the lock.


So I tried spraying it with some sort of rust remover, then blowing it out with compressed air and brake cleaner and then with WD-40 again. I have repeated this several times, but without any luck. I am still not able to fully turn the key and unlock the boot.

Would any of you guys have any recommendations, how to solve this issue?

 

[Jubei700]

Were all the remote keys etc lost before you owned the car? Perhaps someone replaced the lock barrels to enable the car to be used, but didn't replace the boot lock barrel?

Or maybe it never had remote central locking? I assumed all models would have had that, especially by 2001.

 

[MerthO]

Were all the remote keys etc lost before you owned the car? Perhaps someone replaced the lock barrels to enable the car to be used, but didn't replace the boot lock barrel?

Or maybe it never had remote central locking? I assumed all models would have had that, especially by 2001.

No, the car never had remote locking, I even tried looking it up through some VIN decoder online. And also the locks look like they were never changed.

 

[MerthO]

But when I insert the key to the rear lock, I manage to turn it only by this much:

And would I be able to turn the key even by this much, if it was the wrong key for this lock?

 

[GreenEyedPuma]

MerthO,
Hi, the photo of the key turned in the lock certainly looks like it has been turned far enough, that it should release the lock.

From memory, I think I saw a diagram of the mechanism on the Ford TIS, which as well as showing the electric lock release actuator (operated by either the remote key, or pushing the lock barrel button, with the ignition off), also had a physical cable release from the lock barrel to the lock and / or actuator mechanism. Perhaps that relatively short cable (think bonnet release type, etc.) has snapped, or dislodged from the lock barrel, or lock mechanism?

I had a 2001 1.7 Puma and I'm certain that remote central locking came on it as standard. In fact, when I was getting quotes from dealers to buy it new, I very simply asked for a price for a 1.7, in Pacific Green, with Aircon! The only other thing I could have asked for, was to have the stereo upgraded to include the CD slot version, but got told there were none built with that yet, so did without!

I think yours (at least if a UK spec.) should have the remote locking, as it was standard on mine. The dealers had apparently lost track of the remote key and emergency "t-bar" key on the day I collected it and had a new remote key made, to go with the (just) physical key, like you have. They said that Ford didn't do the emergency "t-bar" keys anymore, when I asked about it. However, low & behold, I found that "t-bar" and the original remote key in the ashtray when I got home! So I actually ended up with a free extra remote key!

Perhaps a previous owner lost the remote key and didn't want the cost of Ford replacing & reprogramming it into the remote locking module? Or the remote locking module has failed and a previous owner did not supply the remote key to a prospective buyer, as that would have highlighted the fact, if it didn't work? Sorry, I'm just an old cynic!

 

[MerthO]

MerthO,
Hi, the photo of the key turned in the lock certainly looks like it has been turned far enough, that it should release the lock.

From memory, I think I saw a diagram of the mechanism on the Ford TIS, which as well as showing the electric lock release actuator (operated by either the remote key, or pushing the lock barrel button, with the ignition off), also had a physical cable release from the lock barrel to the lock and / or actuator mechanism. Perhaps that relatively short cable (think bonnet release type, etc.) has snapped, or dislodged from the lock barrel, or lock mechanism?

I had a 2001 1.7 Puma and I'm certain that remote central locking came on it as standard. In fact, when I was getting quotes from dealers to buy it new, I very simply asked for a price for a 1.7, in Pacific Green, with Aircon! The only other thing I could have asked for, was to have the stereo upgraded to include the CD slot version, but got told there were none built with that yet, so did without!

I think yours (at least if a UK spec.) should have the remote locking, as it was standard on mine. The dealers had apparently lost track of the remote key and emergency "t-bar" key on the day I collected it and had a new remote key made, to go with the (just) physical key, like you have. They said that Ford didn't do the emergency "t-bar" keys anymore, when I asked about it. However, low & behold, I found that "t-bar" and the original remote key in the ashtray when I got home! So I actually ended up with a free extra remote key!

Perhaps a previous owner lost the remote key and didn't want the cost of Ford replacing & reprogramming it into the remote locking module? Or the remote locking module has failed and a previous owner did not supply the remote key to a prospective buyer, as that would have highlighted the fact, if it didn't work? Sorry, I'm just an old cynic!

Hi, thanks a lot for your answer!

I have removed the trim inside of the boot to have a look at the mechanism and you are correct, there is a cable. It is connected to sort of a cam, that gets turned when the barrel is pushed, which releases the latch and the tailgate gets open. But that works perfectly fine, when I press the barrel, if the car is unlocked through the front door.

I was quite certain, that the car was not equipped with remote controls and the two keys I got with the car are the original ones. It is a 1.6 originally sold in Italy, so maybe the remote control key were optional for this engine or the Italian market.

I ran my VIN through some online decoder and according to that, the car was not equipped with remote control, but I have no idea how reliable this source is.

So thanks to all of this I assumed that there would be some mechanical issue with the lock itself, not that the key is incorrect for the lock.

 

[GreenEyedPuma]

MerthO,
Sorry, I also meant to answer your question about whether you should have been able to turn the key as much as you had, in your photo, if it was the wrong key for it. I'm pretty sure it wouldn't have turned much, if at all. Maybe just a slight jiggle and that's it!

If you don't think the locks have been changed and you do find the physical tailgate release cable is present and properly connected at both ends, possibly the inside of the lock barrel has been damaged / worn out?

Ford used to be able to replace individual lock barrels of that key & lock design. They could actually "cut" a lock barrel to match the key you had! That was handy if one was damaged in a theft attempt, etc., so you didn't have to have a different key for just one lock, or else replace every lock to avoid it! Think, that would have needed both doors, tailgate, ignition and locking fuel cap! Unfortunately, with such old cars and also I don't know how long ago Ford stopped using that key & lock design, they may no longer provide the lock "cutting / matching" service any more, but you never know! Maybe an independent could still do it, or replace the barrel with a second hand one and put up with having an extra key.

Don't forget to check out whether you can get a remote key. Places like Timpson's advertise remote keys, but you need to get it.

The Ford Puma Owners Manual says "A maximum of 4 keys with radio frequency remote control can be programmed for your vehicle. Please ask your Ford Dealer for instructions". It didn't say there would be a charge, but that's probably because Ford always do everything for free, out of the goodness of their heart!

I did a quick Google on if there's an easy way to do it and found this old auto locksmiths page, which actually shows the correct type of key for the Puma of that era, so may be helpful, even as a start.

https://theautolocksmith.co.uk/how-to-program-a-ford-key-fob/

 

[GreenEyedPuma]

MerthO,
You beat me to it, with my long, long, long 2nd post. I always try to write in detail, as you never know which particular word or term somebody may Google for similar problems they have in the future and find something here that could help them. Think like it's just a long list of "Tags" . That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it!

 

[GreenEyedPuma]

MerthO,
I just realised you are the Black Puma from Prague! Well done for finding a rust free Puma from Sunny and road salt free Italy! In the UK, we can only dream of a rust free example. It's what did for mine in the end - well that and a rock at the edge of the road in the Lake District, that wrecked an alloy and slightly shook the rusty subframe into a split, to fail its MOT 2 days later!


By the way, you could get a bus through there - one went past the other way, while I was changing the wheel!

 

[MerthO]

possibly the inside of the lock barrel has been damaged / worn out?

I am starting to think, this would be the case. It would also explain the rust being flushed out of the lock.

I tried spraying inside of the lock with a WD-40 and I noticed that it was rust coloured when it was flushed out of the lock.

I will try to find someone who would be able to replace the inside of my lock according to the key in my area. If I don’t, I will have to just put up with unlocking the boot through the front door, which I have been doing for the whole time I have owned the car. I will not even try my luck with Ford, because the local dealership is stupidly expensive. Few weeks ago the quoted me 3107 CZK (about 110 pounds) just for a window regulator switch from a 2009 Fusion, which you can easily get for about 10 pounds at an independent store!

 

[MerthO]

Don't forget to check out whether you can get a remote key. Places like Timpson's advertise remote keys, but you need to get it.

Wouldn’t the car have to be equipped with some sort of receiver from the factory, to be able to work with remote keys? Or was the remote control option just a matter of what kind of key the dealer gave you with the car? If that is the case, getting a remote control key would not be a problem. I quess that the fob and the chip for the immobiliser could be swapped from the original key.

 

[MerthO]

MerthO,
I just realised you are the Black Puma from Prague! Well done for finding a rust free Puma from Sunny and road salt free Italy! In the UK, we can only dream of a rust free example. It's what did for mine in the end - well that and a rock at the edge of the road in the Lake District, that wrecked an alloy and slightly shook the rusty subframe into a split, to fail its MOT 2 days later!
View attachment 11397View attachment 11398

By the way, you could get a bus through there - one went past the other way, while I was changing the wheel!

That’s right, that is me! Yes, I am extremely lucky to have found a car in this great shape. The biggest flaw of the car is, that is not a 1.7.
Next week I will do some big rust prevention measures, to prepare the car for its last winter as a daily, before I will get some other car as a replacement and keep the Puma just for the nice weather!
Such a shame yours ended this badly! When I see the photos on Facebook groups and this forum of the amount of rust that can be on a Puma, it’s just like watching a horror movie!

 

[John Woodward]

On both of my Puma's they key wouldn't unlock the boot, in both cases, I kept spraying in WD-40 & using the non remote key (master key ?) eventually managed to get them to unlock, the used 3in1 oil, then spray grease to keep it lubricated.

Another option is to fit a boot release switch on the dashboard, details can be found in the "How to" guides on this forum. The advantage of this is that it'll open the boot even if the cable and lock won't work or are broken.

 

[yippeekiay]

Another option is to fit a boot release switch on the dashboard, details can be found in the "How to" guides on this forum. The advantage of this is that it'll open the boot even if the cable and lock won't work or are broken.

He just done that mod recently John - in his "Panther Black Puma From Prague" thread. Keep up kiddo

 

[John Woodward]

He just done that mod recently John - in his "Panther Black Puma From Prague" thread. Keep up kiddo

Sorry, can't keep up with everything, was only trying to help !

 

[MerthO]

On both of my Puma's they key wouldn't unlock the boot, in both cases, I kept spraying in WD-40 & using the non remote key (master key ?) eventually managed to get them to unlock, the used 3in1 oil, then spray grease to keep it lubricated.

Another option is to fit a boot release switch on the dashboard, details can be found in the "How to" guides on this forum. The advantage of this is that it'll open the boot even if the cable and lock won't work or are broken.

Hi John,

I have tried spraying it with WD-40 several times as I have described here:

I tried spraying inside of the lock with a WD-40 and I noticed that it was rust coloured when it was flushed out of the lock.

So I tried spraying it with some sort of rust remover, then blowing it out with compressed air and brake cleaner and then with WD-40 again. I have repeated this several times, but without any luck.

But that doesn’t seem to work. Maybe I will have to be more persistent and also try to clean the inside with some sort of long and thin soft brush.

Yes, as @yippeekiay wrote, I have installed the interior release switch just few days ago and the stuck boot lock is sort of a “while I’m in there I might just as well fix this” job!

 

[John Woodward]

I have read on the Facebook group of people having to keep trying the WD-40 for several days, I was fortunate that mine started to work within about 15 mins of turning the key both ways.

 

[GreenEyedPuma]

MerthO,
Hi, sorry, my comments about trying to replace the remote keys crossed over with your first reply to mine and I hadn't noticed your location in your Forum ID. It looks like your English is too good to realise that you are outside the UK, so I just originally presumed you had a UK spec car, with a remote locking module already built in!

Just a further thought - if you still have the boot trim removed, can you use a screwdriver, spanner, or similar tool to force the boot aperture lock into the "locked" position, but with the tailgate still in the raised position? If you can do that, you can try to turn the key in the lock, to observe how the lock barrel, release cable and actuator / lock actually move when you turn the key! That might point you into where the system is going wrong. Maybe the cable is stretched and not pulling against the lock, to pop it open, etc.? Just remember to use the electric push button to release the lock, before you try to shut the tailgate again.

If you do find the cable is stretched / broken, etc., could you replace it with a bit of modified bicycle brake cable, or similar, rather than going to Ford for a hugely expensive replacement? There's always a way......

 

[memyselfi]

Sorry about stating the obvious... but it hasn't been mentioned :-

If my doors are unlocked with the key (or key fob) I just have to press on the lock (it's a depressing button) to open the boot

(sorry if you have already tried this )
View attachment 20230925_142538.mp4


Opps... just reread the first post - sorry

 

[YOG]

Sorry about stating the obvious... but it hasn't been mentioned :-

If my doors are unlocked with the key (or key fob) I just have to press on the lock (it's a depressing button) to open the boot

(sorry if you have already tried this )
View attachment 11410


Opps... just reread the first post - sorry

That's a lot of "sorrys" in one post!