My Puma 1.7, more than a year on (A works in progress)

[tuonokid]

I even tried my 100W soldering iron on the bolt but couldn't get enough heat in it. I Just remember the days when I had the oxy set up, with a welding torch you could warm up really localised areas very very quickly but if I tried to use the burning torch with propane I'd take out the CV boot as well. I never thought of using the heat gun so I might give that a try so thanks again for that :grin:
I missed your previous post about cheap sensors so thanks for that as well.
Barry

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

if I tried to use the burning torch with propane I'd take out the CV boot as well.

wrap the aluminum foil around the CV booth (the type used in kitchen) and turn the shinier side outside. Then take a piece of stainless steel if possible, and polish it to high gloss. Put that steel between CV boot and the bolt you are heating, furthest away the CV boot possible. That should protect the CV boot as your radiant heat transfer will be very little with polished surfaces of SS plate and aluminum foil. For a complete peace of mind put some tape or even wrapped newspaper around CV boot and on top alumium foil. That should do the trick :wink:

 

[tuonokid]

Yeah I'll probably do that as a last resort but it's too cold to use the gas outside here at the moment, I think it would just lose pressure and go out. I think for tomorrow I'll make an aluminium funnel that fits over the bolt and blast it with my heat gun and if that doesn't work it's cut up time with the Dremmel and diamond discs

 

[tuonokid]

It finally warmed up enough today for me to try and get out the front ABS sensor bolt (as I'm now working outside). So I followed Wild E's advice and lagged my CV boot with cooking foil and shielded the boot and the bottom ball joint with a piece of chromed steel and warmed the bolt up with my burning torch.



Result, the bolt came out without breaking
To save me having the same problem again I decided that the bolt would be replaced by a S/S stud and S/S nyloc nut so first of all I had to saw the head off a S/S screw.



Then I cleaned up the thread in the knuckle with an M6 Tap



I then screwed the stud into the knuckle with a dab of threadlock on it, the S/S nyloc nut is on the brick.



I built the drivers side back up again and then checked the passenger side.



This checked out ok so I ordered up just the offside one, should come tomorrow and, hopefully, I should have working ABS.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

Well done! You have done everything to a very high standard and I don't doubt for a fraction of a second that your ABS will work!

 

[tuonokid]

Cheers Sinisa, I should get the sensor today but won't fit it as our weather's taken a turn for the worse here. I will let you know when it's done but just keeping fingers crossed at the moment
Barry

 

[748]

Barry, stop bein a wus, get thi sen wrapped up and get out in it :grin:
Tha's in Yorkshire tha nors!

 

[tuonokid]

Ayup rrrr Paul dunt tha know it's 5 deg colder up here in deepest darkest W Yorks than Tropical Notts :grin:
Barry

 

[748]

:grin: :grin: Nice work with the the ABS sensor studs Barry, they should come off easy next time.
ABS on the FRP is playing up again.
Story is...a few months ago I covered it up and every couple of weeks or so I uncovered it and started it up, as you do.
Everything was fine. Then it was left for quite a bit longer, tried to start it, sweep of dials and 'click, click'. As expected...battery flat.
Stuck a good battery on, started up fine, but the effing ABS/traction lights stayed on???
It hasn't even moved anywhere for 3 months!
Took it for a quick blast up the street, doesn't appear to be a self test?
MOT runs out Sunday so that'll be delayed until the weather improves a bit and I can have a fiddle about.
Paul

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Paul
Thanks for that. Your FRP sounds like mine was with the lack of self test so you must have a sensor out somewhere so I guess it's out with the ohmmeter. For your sake I hope it's one of the fronts as they are much easier (and cheaper) also why does all this stuff happen just before MOTs and in the depth of crappy weather.
Barry

 

[748]

Yeah, I'm hoping it's just a sensor that's gone and not something more sinister :? A bit odd though, as it's only been sat on the driveway under a cover.
To add to that, the wife's 1.6 has started crying for some more attention as well. Cooling fan comes on after driving about for a while and won't go off. This is an odd one as well, the temperature gauge is steady in the middle, no other signs of overheating, but fan won't go off until engine is stopped. Apparently this is a common fault on the Focus 1.6 as well :|
I did have to change the HCV about August time last year but it was fine after that, only when really cold weather came it started??
Pumas...don't ya just love em?
BTW, apologies for messing up your thread with my woes.
Paul

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Paul
No need for apologies, this is what the Forums for
I wonder if it's possible that the expanding/laminating knuckles can squash the front sensors over time causing them to short out.
Sounds like the 1.6 has a faulty fan switch unless it's turned on by the ECU. I've not had much to do with the electrics on my Puma but could there be 2 water temp sensors, one that feeds the ECU and another that feeds the temp gauge?
Thankfully I've not had any issues with the HCV yet but I suppose by next week......
When you have a few vehicles you think you will never be short of transport but in reality it means you're always fixing one :-(
Best of luck.
Barry

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

If you haven't already, I'd stronlgy advise you to change HCV ASAP. Better to change it on your terms (i.e. your garage/driveway) instead in the middle of a road somewhere…. It will fail, it is inevitable. Mine desintegrated, cause the plastics colapsed

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Sinisa
I knew they failed, I didn't know they could drop to bits like that. Maybe it's an idea for me to carry a U shaped piece of pipe to join the ends together if it goes. I think I saw a couple of years ago that there is a Ford modded part available for this that may last a little longer.
Barry

 

[748]

If you haven't already, I'd stronlgy advise you to change HCV ASAP. Better to change it on your terms (i.e. your garage/driveway) instead in the middle of a road somewhere…. It will fail, it is inevitable. Mine desintegrated, cause the plastics colapsed

Yes mate, it failed about 5 moths back, fortunately it failed whilst I was driving it. But I didn't have any tools with me so had to call out recovery. We just bypassed it with a piece of pipe.
It was the original (about 35k miles) and the outlet (RH) just snapped off.
I fitted a new Ford one.
Thing is, everything on that car is original and 14 years old so I'm expecting a bit of grief :lol:

Barry, if you have no evidence of yours ever being changed, as Wild E says, good idea to replace it or at least carry the equipment to be able to 'short' it out.
It's a dead easy hour's job and a genuine Ford one is 45 quid tops.

Also, only one temp sensor on the 1.6 and it's in the head between plugs 2 and 3.
The temp gauge is fed from the CPU and is behaving perfectly and never goes above half way.
I'm gonna replace the thermostat next and see if that sorts it.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Guys
Just been on Pumaspeed and it says of HCVs original part no 98FU 18495 AB error prone (maybe the FU says it all) replaced by later 98FU 18495 AC not error prone but replaced in 2007 by 7N21 18495 AB. That gives me something to look for in the service history, bills and on the actual part on the car.
Barry

 

[748]

original part no 98FU 18495 AB error prone (maybe the FU says it all)

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Barry, here's a link to the how to that I did. The handy piece of pipe in the last pic.
http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?f=51&t=26051" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[tuonokid]

Cheers Paul
I can see now why they're prone to break at that point and that you'd replaced it with the latest part number. I'd had the sound proofing mat out when I first got the car to clean behind it and get rid of all the dead leaves so I'd sussed out the best way to short out the heater but now I know what dia pipe I need to bridge the gap so thanks again.
Just found a bill for the last HCV. It's dated 4/6/2010
Barry

 

[tuonokid]

Here's what finally arrived on Sunday.



I checked the hole through the knuckle with the new sensor even though I'd cleaned it out with a wire brush on the dremmel it was super tight so I used a small grindstone and gently ground back until the rusty debris stopped.



Before I put the new sensor in I gave it a quick smear of copperslip making sure I didn't get any on the business end of the sensor.



Sensor in place and held on by M6 S/S nyloc nut. Should be easier to take off now if I ever need to.

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

And the outcome is?