My Puma 1.7, more than a year on (A works in progress)

[tuonokid]

Hi Sinisa
It was too wet and too many parked cars in my street to test it yesterday (it will be a dry weather car now) but it looks ok today so I will test it later and post on here.
Barry

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

Dry weather car! :lol: Epic!

 

[tuonokid]

Need I say more?

:thumbs: :thumbs: :thumbs:

 

[Wild E. Coyote]

Well done, mate! I told you, you did it OK!

PS: that mileage is genuine?! How old is that car?

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Sinisa
Thanks mate for that and, of course, all your help.
Yes the mileage is genuine and it's a 30/11/2001 first registration and I'm the second owner bought in November 2012.
Barry

 

[TGPlayer1]

Have you not driven it since you bought it? First post says 37000 miles too.

I'd go mad waiting.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi TG
No, I've only driven it on the drive and a little into the Cul De Sac so far so I can't wait to drive it but it will have an easy life in the future and, hopefully, it will be another Ford classic.
Barry

 

[TGPlayer1]

Well you're a patient man. As the Guinness advert said, good things come to those who wait.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi TG
I was going to say that :grin: I have other vehicles as well so it's not really a problem.
Barry

 

[Brian']

Hey Barry,
Just read your project thread! A lot of time went into this Puma that's for sure. But the quality of the work is top notch!
Will be doing my underside pretty soon, May I ask what products you used and how much of each product? (Read something about a gallon of schutz )

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Brian
I hope you don't use your car as an everyday driver as you will need to strip a lot off the underside of the car to do this but here goes;
1 bottle of Jenolite or similar (I don't use it as intended but it indicates area of rot still present when ground back to bare metal).
a half litre of two pack etch primer + special etch primer thinners.
Small tin of grey or white primer.
half litre of cellulose gloss (your car colour)
Perhaps 2 litres of cellulose thinners
4 litres of schutz gun applied stonechip by Indasa
5 litres of schutz gun applied underseal by Tetrosyl
2 smallish tubes of joint sealer (the sort that can be painted over)
5 litre of Finegans waxoil (This went in internal areas such as doors, sills, inside of rear wings and chassis rails)
The car now weighs 2 tonnes but will last a bit longer .
Good luck with it Brian.
Barry

 

[Brian']

Hi Brian
I hope you don't use your car as an everyday driver as you will need to strip a lot off the underside of the car to do this but here goes;
1 bottle of Jenolite or similar (I don't use it as intended but it indicates area of rot still present when ground back to bare metal).
a half litre of two pack etch primer + special etch primer thinners.
Small tin of grey or white primer.
half litre of cellulose gloss (your car colour)
Perhaps 2 litres of cellulose thinners
4 litres of schutz gun applied stonechip by Indasa
5 litres of schutz gun applied underseal by Tetrosyl
2 smallish tubes of joint sealer (the sort that can be painted over)
5 litre of Finegans waxoil (This went in internal areas such as doors, sills, inside of rear wings and chassis rails)
The car now weighs 2 tonnes but will last a bit longer .
Good luck with it Brian.
Barry

That's quite the list! I do use my car as a daily in the winter but in the summer I can do everything by bike. I have access to a 2 column lift so that will make life much easier.
I'm not that great of a welder but probably will after the underside is done

Thanks for the info!

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Brian
Yes practice makes perfect with welding but the best way to get a good result is to not try and seam weld all the way around a patch as you'll put too much heat into it and probably blow a few holes in it. All those small patches in the floor I just spotted them in place making sure the patch was flat with the surrounding metal and then filled in with small spots but kept moving to another side of the patch to avoid heat build up. Result is no distortion and minimum grinding afterwards.
Oh I don't use a mask as well. I position the gun first and then close my eyes and look away when I press the trigger, you can hear the weld.
I hope that helps.
Barry
PS I wish I'd had the use of the lift for the painting etc but if you're welding do it from above wherever possible as it doesn't hurt as much.
Barry

 

[Brian']

Hi Barry,
Thanks for all the info! Welding on a lift is indeed very hard. On my dad's Puma there was a hole near the chassis strengthener but wasn't accessible from the inside. That was really a pain to weld, We eventually got looking nice though

If I have any other questions do you mind if I send you a PM?
Now let's get back on topic!

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Brian
Feel free
Barry

 

[748]

Hi Barry
Well done with the ABS. Can you come and sort mine out :lol:
Paul

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Paul
Cheers for that but with yours and mine experiences of failing ABS sensors I'm willing to bet it's one of the fronts that's gone and it's been caused by the rust crushing it. You're welcome to come and borrow my burning torch and gas if you want or if you get the car here we can have a go at it.
Barry

 

[The Arch Bishop]

Genuinely chuffed to see it's all come together Barry! One of the very best projects on here and a testament to your hard work and determination!

 

[tuonokid]

Thanks very much for that but it's nowt compared to the trials and tribulations that you've been through with your car.
Barry

 

[tuonokid]

Won't be long now just re-insured my Westy with A-plan and got a combined policy with the Puma including all the mods on it for £341.65 which I think is not bad considering that I have no no-claims for the Puma. The policy starts 12th March so I can't wait now :grin: :thumbs:
Barry