My Puma 1.7, more than a year on (A works in progress)
- Thread starter tuonokid
- Start date
Help Support ProjectPuma:
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Sinisa and James
Definitely will be polishing the inner side of the ali sheet to reflect back onto the cat and James if one of those shields is being scrapped I'll have it off you as it will be easy to shape as a guide for the thicker sheet or I might even be able to make it look "Factory".
Barry
Definitely will be polishing the inner side of the ali sheet to reflect back onto the cat and James if one of those shields is being scrapped I'll have it off you as it will be easy to shape as a guide for the thicker sheet or I might even be able to make it look "Factory".
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
Cheers James, you're a good 'un.
RICHARD MANSFIELD2
Active member
Hi all.
Since I fitted the Piper 100 cell sports cat my EML light comes on. If I re set it by disconnecting the battery the light stays off until the system gets to its hottest temp i.e. drive for about 15 to 20 mins then drive 5 miles on dual carriage way then it will come on again. I would have though it would have come on within the first few minuets. I have wrapped it in titanium exhaust wrap but this has not had the desired effect.
Regards,
Richard.
Since I fitted the Piper 100 cell sports cat my EML light comes on. If I re set it by disconnecting the battery the light stays off until the system gets to its hottest temp i.e. drive for about 15 to 20 mins then drive 5 miles on dual carriage way then it will come on again. I would have though it would have come on within the first few minuets. I have wrapped it in titanium exhaust wrap but this has not had the desired effect.
Regards,
Richard.
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Richard
That's strange as it's opposite to what you think would happen. There are a number of things that I can think of which may help, as mentioned on here before every time you disconnect the battery the ECU has to learn the engine again??? Maybe turning off the EML with a code reader would be better. Have you lengthened the lambda wires correctly and kept them away from the exhaust so they don't overheat or burn. When I looked on the internet about heat wrapping the cat the consensus was don't do it as it will destroy the internals. It's important that all the exhaust joints are air tight till past the cat otherwise the lambdas will get faulty readings (that includes the lambda crush washers). If the joints aren't air tight the system will probably pop and bang on the overrun.
I hope that helps.
Barry
That's strange as it's opposite to what you think would happen. There are a number of things that I can think of which may help, as mentioned on here before every time you disconnect the battery the ECU has to learn the engine again??? Maybe turning off the EML with a code reader would be better. Have you lengthened the lambda wires correctly and kept them away from the exhaust so they don't overheat or burn. When I looked on the internet about heat wrapping the cat the consensus was don't do it as it will destroy the internals. It's important that all the exhaust joints are air tight till past the cat otherwise the lambdas will get faulty readings (that includes the lambda crush washers). If the joints aren't air tight the system will probably pop and bang on the overrun.
I hope that helps.
Barry
Hello,
It's normal to have a DTC when you put a sport cat or a decat on a engine with 2 lambda, don't panic.
you have solutions:
use an ecu who use only one lambda
or
put a cellfix or shunt on the 2nd lambda (at cat exit)
i'm using a cellfix on my puma who have a lambda, and no have DTC
(sorry for my poor english ;-))
It's normal to have a DTC when you put a sport cat or a decat on a engine with 2 lambda, don't panic.
you have solutions:
use an ecu who use only one lambda
or
put a cellfix or shunt on the 2nd lambda (at cat exit)
i'm using a cellfix on my puma who have a lambda, and no have DTC
(sorry for my poor english ;-))
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Alex
Mine doesn't have an EML and it's the 2 lambda model unless the engine's coolish and I run through a deep puddle even with the Piper system and sportscat. I bought a MAL Eliminator off Ebay but I've never had to use it.
Barry
Mine doesn't have an EML and it's the 2 lambda model unless the engine's coolish and I run through a deep puddle even with the Piper system and sportscat. I bought a MAL Eliminator off Ebay but I've never had to use it.
Barry
I guess, this is needed? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Angle-O2-Sim-Oxygen-Sensor-Fix-Simulator-Cel-02-M18-X-1-5-/291539794885?hash=item43e1203bc5" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Sinisa
Not for me :grin:
I wonder if it works? It looks to me like an old wives tale like those nets of lead balls that you can buy for your petrol tank that are supposed to put the lead back in petrol. TBH the EML is not the worst thing for owners who have it, it's actually getting the car through the MOT with the emissions test.
I said earlier in my posting I was glad when I first started the car up that the EML went out and thankfully it keeps going out apart from the time the car was cool and I splashed through a deep puddle.
Barry
Not for me :grin:
I wonder if it works? It looks to me like an old wives tale like those nets of lead balls that you can buy for your petrol tank that are supposed to put the lead back in petrol. TBH the EML is not the worst thing for owners who have it, it's actually getting the car through the MOT with the emissions test.
I said earlier in my posting I was glad when I first started the car up that the EML went out and thankfully it keeps going out apart from the time the car was cool and I splashed through a deep puddle.
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
I finally got chance to fabricate a cat shield as my Brother in law let me use the pit in his garage so the first job was to put the brackets I'd fixed on the exhaust on the centreline of the exhaust.
I roughly cut the sheet aluminium to the size I wanted and then rolled it to the dia I wanted.
I eventually ended up with this.
The flanges at the front of the shield are for mounting a front shield as this...
but I can't fit this or cut it out until I get it on the pit again. The black marker just gives an idea of roughly where the exhaust pipe will go through.
view of shield in place from pass side.
view of shield in place from drivers side
I roughly cut the sheet aluminium to the size I wanted and then rolled it to the dia I wanted.
I eventually ended up with this.
The flanges at the front of the shield are for mounting a front shield as this...
but I can't fit this or cut it out until I get it on the pit again. The black marker just gives an idea of roughly where the exhaust pipe will go through.
view of shield in place from pass side.
view of shield in place from drivers side
Nice one, Barry! Just polish the inside of the shield facing the cat.
And tell us if it works regarding the MIL...?
And tell us if it works regarding the MIL...?
tuonokid
Active member
Hi Sinisa
It may have worked but in a bad way. I set off to meet up with one of my friends as we were going to the classic car show in Manchester. The roads were completely dry and I'd just done about 10 miles down the motorway when the EML came on. I got off at the next junction to make sure the new shield was ok and everything looked ok underneath so I resumed my journey. When I came back to my car later on the EML light was still but it drove ok. As I had my son with me today we fired up the Forscan and got this....
The dreaded P0420 code I'd had before when I splashed through a big puddle but in completely different circumstances. This time I couldn't blame it on water and lack of temperature but possibly on too high a temperature. The only other thing I could think of was the shield did seem to resonate at certain revs which could have damaged the cat.
Anyway, I went through the rest of the tests.
And then turned off the EML.
So when it dries up outside I need to take off the splash shield and take the car for a run again to see if the EML comes on. At the end of the month the Puma's off the road for winter so my plan is still to take off the four branch to heat wrap it and air test the cat for rust holes and weld them up if needed.
Edit I took off the splash shield and did the 50 mile round trip to the Ford show at Sherburn and no EML but I ran injector cleaner through it. Let's see what happens at next years MOT.
It may have worked but in a bad way. I set off to meet up with one of my friends as we were going to the classic car show in Manchester. The roads were completely dry and I'd just done about 10 miles down the motorway when the EML came on. I got off at the next junction to make sure the new shield was ok and everything looked ok underneath so I resumed my journey. When I came back to my car later on the EML light was still but it drove ok. As I had my son with me today we fired up the Forscan and got this....
The dreaded P0420 code I'd had before when I splashed through a big puddle but in completely different circumstances. This time I couldn't blame it on water and lack of temperature but possibly on too high a temperature. The only other thing I could think of was the shield did seem to resonate at certain revs which could have damaged the cat.
Anyway, I went through the rest of the tests.
And then turned off the EML.
So when it dries up outside I need to take off the splash shield and take the car for a run again to see if the EML comes on. At the end of the month the Puma's off the road for winter so my plan is still to take off the four branch to heat wrap it and air test the cat for rust holes and weld them up if needed.
Edit I took off the splash shield and did the 50 mile round trip to the Ford show at Sherburn and no EML but I ran injector cleaner through it. Let's see what happens at next years MOT.
XAF
Active member
- Joined
- Apr 8, 2012
- Messages
- 1,056
If it makes you feel any better Barry, the black Puma has chucked a right strop since I got the FRP. First the ABS light (now fixed) but randomly yesterday for the first time in 12 years the EML light came on. Three days before the MOT!
I disconnected the battery, started up. No light. Drove around, no light. Drove to work today. No light. Sod's law it will come back on for the MOT!!!
I disconnected the battery, started up. No light. Drove around, no light. Drove to work today. No light. Sod's law it will come back on for the MOT!!!
tuonokid
Active member
Hi James
Give us a bell if you get time and we can arrange to check it with Forscan before it goes for it's test.
Barry
Give us a bell if you get time and we can arrange to check it with Forscan before it goes for it's test.
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
That I don't know James but there's obviously something wrong going on there. You're still on the standard frontpipe and cat on that Puma aren't you?
Barry
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
Well if it comes on again don't reset it, just get yourself over here. (Mine drives just the same with the P0420 code but maybe other codes might put it into limp mode)
Barry
Barry
tuonokid
Active member
Another fault that revealed itself on my Puma when I arrived home from the Manchester car show was;
On the highest setting of the headlamp adjuster control I got this.
and on the lowest setting I got this so I got out of the car and I could still hear the nearside headlight motor running but the light wasn't going down.
I knew Rick (YOG) had done a guide in the How to section so I had a read of this and then started dismantling the n/s headlight. The guide was really helpful and the only thing I could add was that the top pivot ball joints are really stiff to pull out so I used a small socket pressed into the cups of the balljoints to open them up slightly. Anyway the light unit was full of fine broken glass (from a previous broken bulb?) so I cleaned that out and got on with the motor.
The rear cover of the motor came off easily but removing the PCB and motor was not so easy
So I cleaned off the drive gears and the spindle as they seemed a bit stiff to turn in the housing and then turned my attention to what I assume is the parking device for the motor (stops it at each end of it's stroke)
This is the little box which has a peg coming up from it which engages into the back of the motor drive spindle. (This photo is about as clear as what I'm seeing at the moment so I had to use a magnifying glass) I used a Stanley knife blade to unpick 2 of the four tangs that hold the cover on the parking device. Once I'd removed the peg I bent the contacts underneath (super small) and then cleaned off the slider with alcohol before reassembling (it's really difficult to hold the parking device lid in place and bend the tangs back in to lock it in place)
Anyway I put it all back together and now it all works as it should...job done :grin:
On the highest setting of the headlamp adjuster control I got this.
and on the lowest setting I got this so I got out of the car and I could still hear the nearside headlight motor running but the light wasn't going down.
I knew Rick (YOG) had done a guide in the How to section so I had a read of this and then started dismantling the n/s headlight. The guide was really helpful and the only thing I could add was that the top pivot ball joints are really stiff to pull out so I used a small socket pressed into the cups of the balljoints to open them up slightly. Anyway the light unit was full of fine broken glass (from a previous broken bulb?) so I cleaned that out and got on with the motor.
The rear cover of the motor came off easily but removing the PCB and motor was not so easy
So I cleaned off the drive gears and the spindle as they seemed a bit stiff to turn in the housing and then turned my attention to what I assume is the parking device for the motor (stops it at each end of it's stroke)
This is the little box which has a peg coming up from it which engages into the back of the motor drive spindle. (This photo is about as clear as what I'm seeing at the moment so I had to use a magnifying glass) I used a Stanley knife blade to unpick 2 of the four tangs that hold the cover on the parking device. Once I'd removed the peg I bent the contacts underneath (super small) and then cleaned off the slider with alcohol before reassembling (it's really difficult to hold the parking device lid in place and bend the tangs back in to lock it in place)
Anyway I put it all back together and now it all works as it should...job done :grin:
Similar threads
Vehicle For Sale
2002 Ford Puma 1.7 Thunder
Vehicle For Sale
2001 (Y) 1.7 85k FSH bodywork mint £2990 Warwickshire
