Track day car

[Voa]

Standard Pacific Green Puma pictured before work was started on the car.

 

[Voa]

New suspension came and was fitted

Car had only done 45k but the suspension didn't feel as tight as I wanted it
I managed to get the gmax kit for a very good price

Notice the shorter size of the rod on the gmax shocks v standard

Suspension fitted

New Greenstuff pads were fitted and new brembo discs on the existing 260mm disk / caliper setup

 

[Voa]

Clutch was changed for a focus 200mm clutch

Gearbox out

New clutch in

No history on previous owner changing the cam belt which was a bit worrying so a new cambelt was fitted

While the cambelt was being changed with the water pump and aux belt the FRP cam was installed at the same time

Timed up with correct FRP tool

Managed to get a one off Corbeau Forza seat without branding added the corbeau old skool badge

 

[AWX85]

Good work, love the seat without the branding.

 

[Voa]

Managed to get a second harness

Started to strip the car slowly to reduce weight.

 

[Xrion236]

Remember that by removing the interior or the back seats you are changing the weight ratio of the car, if its too far forward it may start to understeer and front suspension travel will be reduced. If you remove rear weight try replacing the front panels with carbon fiber and using a lighter weight battery.

 

[Voa]

yeah thanks for that re-locating the battery or going for a race battery was on the cards - I hear though that if you don't use the car regular the lighter race batteries tend to discharge quite quick, my puma won't get much running over this year.

The refit of the interior is I think something I will plan out and start after I get the summer out of the way I can see myself going crazy about losing weight and weight distribution.

I am also thinking of going for a different engine like the black top as I think if I am going to chuck more money at the car I might as well get something with more tuning options. I think having an FRP replica engine isn't the right direction in the long term if I want to continue to track this car.

 

[Xrion236]

Just remember that the 1.7 Zetec-s Is very light for its BHP so for the FRP replica engine its about 0-60 in 7.9 @ 155hp and thats .4 shy of the 2000 porsche boxter 2.7ltr 217hp, so if you could pull 250hp out of the 1.7 zetec-s you would be laughing.

 

[Voa]

Interesting stats ,if I was to go that route I would prefer to go with the supercharge route because of the more linear power delivery - interested about the eaton charger the guy is running on his puma .

I think my car would also benefit from a FRP box for the track as at the moment 5th definitely would be too over driven for the track

 

[mrMechanix]

Looking good mate. Instead of the toyos or pradas have a look at the hankook rs2 track day tyre. Bit cheaper and I'm quite impressed. Seem to last a little longer than the toyo too. Good grip levels once you get them toasty. defo try to lose as much weight as you can, if it's not needed, chuck it!
As for the charger, well it's not finished yet lol.

 

[Voa]

Went for a cone filter tried to look for the biggest one I could fit , want to retain the standard exhaust as not into loud exhausts.

Also fitted JS sport induction hose.

The cone filter needed a cold flow feed so a neoprene tube was run from the front bumper with a bell to aid the flow of air.

Also fitted Team dynamics 1.2's 15 inch with et34 offset. Also fitted bigger brakes wanted to retain 280mm diameter discs. Fitted pumaspeed 280mm conversion which are escort cosy brakes same as the mondeo v6

 

[mrMechanix]

Yep the lower strut brace really works. Mines is an omp one and it is very close to the gearbox. So much so that under really heavy braking, using the engine to slow me down it knocks a bit. Just shaved a little of the contact point on the gearbox and it solved it. If your having problems with clearance for the rear brace you can either use high strength coach bolts which are very flat headed from the inner arch into the car or simply weld the brace in place.
If it's a track car then any weight needs to go. Form follows function in a race car my man. Once the carpets and all are out it's a good idea to remove the dense sound deadening pads. Get a good heat gun and a scraper and it comes off pretty easy. There's some on the insides of the doors and quarter panels also. Cellulose thinners removes the sticky remains, but do it in a well ventilated space or you'll be high as a motherfu.... inkeye: quite a bit weight there
Roof panel out but keep the visors. Even the inside structure of the boot lid and bonnet can be cutaway for weight saving. My boot is basically a shell with no catch or metal past where it touches the rubber seal. Held it down with those stainless spring catches. The lighter it is the better, go nuts :twisted:

 

[Voa]

So far my list of things to do is increasing as I get more small parts

Want to clean up or flow my ebay manifold , same with the throttle body
Clean icv and tps keep as spares
Fit rear brake lines
Fit rear strut brace - when I get lower profile nuts
Fit Induction kit / cool air flow from lower front bumper + crank case breather
Fit new short cam cover -still need to spray it
Work on spare rear bumper I might start lighten it with a saw drill small holes
Fit battery cut off switch
Fit new throttle cable
Fit new rear spacers 20mm
Fit lower front strut brace
Buy some carbon door cards - replace current door cards
Buy new passengers bucket seat - hope it matches driver side
Refurb old lower front arms + powerflex+Ford FRP rear bushes
Buy and fit oil catchment tank

I keep buying parts but can't find the time at the moment to work on the car .

 

[Voa]

Decided to go with throttle bodies and an after market management system I have been talking to advanced automotives and rather then going the bike throttle body route, I have decided to go with the full omex kit which I believe uses jenvey throttle bodies the omex management seems to be very flexible.

http://www.omextechnology.co.uk/Omex Zetec SE TB Kit v2.3.pdf - shows the 1.6 version the 1.7 is slightly cheaper

Just need to save for my next stage of work on the car - looking at doing this over the winter

 

[mrMechanix]

Bodies and management will be awesome mate.

 

[Voa]

Just need to find 2k :grin:

 

[mrMechanix]

Yeah their not cheap. But are awesome. As for your oil catch tank try here..

http://www.toyosports.co.uk/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Really nice looking tank with a level pipe for only £25 in various anodised alloy colours. Mines blue so no copying lol. Comes with two sizes of pipe union and you can take the whole top off for cleaning. was delivered really quick and I ended up buying a few things from them after. Been really good service and I've been happy with the quality of the stuff I've bought. Got a brand new front mount intercooler for under sixty, i thought it'd be junk, but it's actually a very well made part. Worth a look mate.

 

[Voa]

Yep the lower strut brace really works. Mines is an omp one and it is very close to the gearbox. So much so that under really heavy braking, using the engine to slow me down it knocks a bit. Just shaved a little of the contact point on the gearbox and it solved it. If your having problems with clearance for the rear brace you can either use high strength coach bolts which are very flat headed from the inner arch into the car or simply weld the brace in place.
If it's a track car then any weight needs to go. Form follows function in a race car my man. Once the carpets and all are out it's a good idea to remove the dense sound deadening pads. Get a good heat gun and a scraper and it comes off pretty easy. There's some on the insides of the doors and quarter panels also. Cellulose thinners removes the sticky remains, but do it in a well ventilated space or you'll be high as a motherfu.... inkeye: quite a bit weight there
Roof panel out but keep the visors. Even the inside structure of the boot lid and bonnet can be cutaway for weight saving. My boot is basically a shell with no catch or metal past where it touches the rubber seal. Held it down with those stainless spring catches. The lighter it is the better, go nuts :twisted:

mrMechanix

yeah fitted the lower strut brace today but it looks really close if not touching on the right hand side with the gearbox. Do you have a picture of how close your lower omp strut brace is and how you resolved it byt taking a bit of the gearbox where is made contact? In two minds to take it off but everyone says it makes a big difference so would like to keep it on even if I have to modify it .

 

[mrMechanix]

Seriously leave it on mate, does make a difference. I'll go take a pic for you tomorrow.

 

[Voa]

Fitted OMP lower strut brace but it does run very close to the gearbox. Need a new gearbox mount to try to raise the level of the gearbox