Recent content by adrianm

I did it on my race car. Just cut a larger hole and welded up a rectangular piece that fits over it with a sealed plate on top of that. No reason why it couldn't be done on a street car as well. Just as secure as the rubber bung as far as fumes are concerned.

Not true according to Ford ETIS. 10w30, 5w40 and 10w40 are all valid alternatives for the Puma. The right spec is the most important thing.

Mine is covered in this - http://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/heat-shielding-protection/design-engineering-reflect-a-gold - full seasons racing and two rolling road sessions and still good as new.

I bought one of the quick shift levers (not the ones in the link but the same idea) and to be honest I didn't notice much difference. The Puma already has a pretty decent gearshift compared to a lot cars of that age. It's a pretty simple mod based on the same principles of the XR2 mod that Edd...

In the Ford Puma TIS Workshop manual 5W30, 10W30, 5W40 and 10W40 are listed for the 1.7 and 1.4. 5W30 is the recommended but the others are valid alternatives. For the racing puma they are all listed as recommended. I run 10W40 in my 1.7 race car with no problems at all.

Pastor definitely has talent. You don't win the GP2 championship with a midfield team beating Perez and Bianchi if you don't have talent. What he seems to lack is the mental capacity to cope with the complexity of the modern F1 car. Most of his accidents occurred while changing settings or...

Sounds great. It's a full on race car and it's 100db on the sound test.

I put the hoffam sports rear box on mine. Fits straight onto the hoffman pipe as you would expect with nothing else needed. As it fits straight onto the standard pipe as well I would have thought any other box would work...

You should try some Dunlop DZ03G's. I've been running Nankang NS2R's on my race car for the most of the season and I thought they were fantastic but the Dunlops are on a different planet compared to them.

Personally I think all the splitters, holes and spoilers make a tiny if any difference and in some cases could actually slow the car down. They just don't go fast enough to need all the fancy aero bits. If you've got the best suspension, best tyres etc then it might be worth the effort but...

I have ST150 discs on the front of mine and Focus discs on the back. Make sure you put a larger master cylinder in (I'm using the master cylinder and servo from a Mk2 Mondeo) as it's a lot more fluid to move and you'll have a long pedal with the standard setup.

Thing to remember with a lot of race series is that they have a minimum weight as well as regs on cutting floorpans etc. Mine weighs 850kg dry but the class I race in has a minimum weight of 1050kg so lots of lead bolted to the floor, fat driver and 3/4 of tank of fuel to get there.

Over a standard door no doubt but against a fully stripped one I'd be surprised if it was more than a kilo difference at the very most. A stripped down door is only a thin metal skin with a thin piece of ali on the inside after all.

Is there going to be much weight difference if you chop everything out on the standard doors? The heaviest part of the door once you've stripped it are the hinges which you would still need anyway.

The difference is that a plenum for ITBs is always being supplied with air whereas the air in a plenum for a single TB is controlled by the TB itself.