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I had a problem getting the grey connector off the engine coolant sensor, but it's solved now. :-)

Thanks, 748. I replaced the cap too, just in case, so it doesn't appear to have any bearing on the current situation.

My R-reg 1.7 Puma's top hose exploded at the engine end. At first I thought the loud bang was from hitting a pothole, but it was soon evident from the soaring temperature and a whirring rattle that there was a problem. The hose is in shreds over about three inches. I got the car home by topping...

Something is blocking my nearside headlight in. Try as I may, I can't lift, pull or wiggle it out. The obstruction is out of sight (naturally) under the bottom nearside corner, and the unit pivots around it . Removing the bumper, a major pain in the bum, may be the only way to get at the...

No problem, Brian'. It's Severio's thread, not mine, anyway. I can't get at the front bolt, even after prising the right side of the bumper away. I'll have to go and buy a cranked or joggled spanner, which should reach it.

Thanks, DOH. I thought a vertical pull was most likely, but there might have been something hidden by the pipes that required care. Actually, the windscreen wipers are relevant because the arms need to come off to release the plastic grille and reveal one of the nuts. I levered them gently off...

Thanks for the info. As my car is dark blue, the nuts were hard to see from the inside, so I painted them yellow from outside, and that made seeing them much easier. Another problem now, though: the expansion tank needs to be moved to allow the washer filler neck to come out. From the Haynes...

Does the washer bottle have to be removed? It looks rather cramped in there, especially as my present wing is dented up against the bottle. I think I'll have to saw part of it off to get a view of the rear bolts. How do you get at the top bolt with the yellow arrow pointing aft?

Not sure how this works on this forum, but that's the URL of a photo showing the damage. Okay, it evidently didn't work. The pic is at http://s938.photobucket.com/user/cwmddyfrdwy/media/Dsc_0027.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Cheers, Barry. That's good news. The end of the bulkhead and part of the edge of the mudguard are a bit bent, too; any problem to straighten them out?

I parked my Puma on a suburban street in Wrexham, and returned to find the right front wing bashed in. Quite a big dent, and the driver's door won't open more than five or six inches. Sill and bonnet edge are still straight, fortunately, and tracking is okay. I found plenty of used panels on...

Can that be done without removing the hub carrier from the strut and links?

Thanks for that info. I wish the Haynes manual had detailed drawings as they used to, instead of often indistinct photographs that don't cover everything. A cross-section of the hub wouldn't come amiss.

My '97 1.7 has only three nuts on the nearside front wheel because the fourth stud has broken off just proud of the outer part of the hub. The previous owner evidently intended to replace it as there is a spare stud with nut, but since the studs are trapped between the inner and outer flanges of...

Thanks for the advice. Got it out with a bit of persuasion and nothing broken. Where the wires enter the switches, someone had wrapped duct tape several times around them, and it had shrivelled up. After about ten minutes spent removing the tape, the window and mirror switch worked perfectly.

I have the same problem on my '97 1.7; driver's window got steadily weaker until it needed engine running to go up, then quit while about 3 inches open in a heavy shower. Switch not illuminating, though other switch and window are fine. Remote mirror switch also dead. Presumably bad connection...