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That's what I had been doing but I've got quite a bit of money tied up in the car now. Combine that with an experienced optomist's view of human nature and I feel I need a bit more reassurance.

The chip still works at present but I'll need to tape it near the transponder ring as it won't survive if I try to insert it into the key. It's the only chip, i.e no other keys.

Would anyone know what can be done to pair a chip to an ECU? I've got an FRP ECU but being the knuckle dragging oaf I am, I've broken the glass around the chip when changing keys. I've got other key chips available, just wondering if they can be paired to the ECU? Cheers

I know it was cancelled early on due to a fatality in one of the top crews.

I run courier springs and it does pick it up a bit.

No you don't need loctite on any of the bolts mentioned. You are quite right, if you fit a 220mm clutch to the original flywheel (without it being skimmed), it will run on the raised lip outside of the original circumference.

Thanks Ian, I've done it that way before, but was thinking it may be easier to just remove the one nut than three of them and four bolts (its for an engine swap).

Mine were quite tight when I pressed them in but nothing too silly. I had the two piece bottom arms (that I'd seam welded for strength, after having a single piece arm detatch itself from the front bush, long story). It's easy to see when you're in position with those type as the lip on either...

Thanks guys.

Could someone please let me know what the size is of the nut on the O/S engine mount. The big one is the one I'm after. I'm away with work at present and want to order up a socket for when I get home. Thanks.

No didn't need to skim as the helix is the same diameter as the original item. Tried the Focus along the way and that still slipped even with the flywheel skimmed. I should mention I'd probably run a focus clutch in a road car but rallying is so hard on them.

The only one I found that didn't slip was the Helix paddle. Very stiff though and no use in a road car. All other options I tried needed to be treated pretty gently. I do run 195/55/15 tyres though so it does have to transmit extra torque. It has led to problems with the CV joints too. As with...

You really need to get the flywheel face skimmed if you want to fit the larger diameter clutch. Otherwise the new plate will be running on the raised part at the periphery of the flywheel and not sitting flush. If you've had no trouble with the original, go with another one of those, saves...

I use Errol's procedure and it works spot on.

8Nm first tighten then 17Nm second tighten is what I did mine to. No need to worry too much about the VCT if you've got the correct tool. If your cams are genuine FRP then you should be ok on the tappet clearances. Don't mean to sound patronising but always make sure you rotate the engine in the...

Sorry to crash the thread but how about shimming the tappets?

Select 1st and check the number of rotations. FRP should have just over 13 rotations of the input shaft for one on the diff. The standard will only have 12.

I've found if you push the circular part down as far as possible onto the top of the pump assembly and then push in the tabs, that seems to work well. They sort of clip into place on top of the connection and then seem to come off pretty easily when the tabs are pressed in.

I've had this before too. In my case it was the strut that was bent. They seem to be quite weak to lateral impact and bend slightly just above the hub clamp. I hope the bottom arm sorts it but if not change the strut.

The starter earths through the strap so could be, but to be honest could be a multitude of things. Probably going to be a case of trying to eliminate as many things as you can to narrow it down. Is the starter the original one or did it come with the new engine?