Recent content by Peter

A complete set of body panels for a Smart For-2

The remix of A Little Less Conversation is surprisingly good music for some spirited driving

I fitted an air horn to mine, made more than one MOT tester jump!

Unless you've got a press it's probably not a DIY job, the front bearings are a lot more fiddly to remove/replace than the rears. Should cost you around £100-150 at a garage all told

In the passenger footwell, behind the carpet on the left hand side is where the ECU sits. It may be behind a riveted on panel, or someone may have removed the panel in the past to access it.

Sounds like the classic definition of a wheel bearing on it's way out, and it's one of the fronts given that it changes pitch when you corner

As far as I remember it's not too bad, the box has a flap on the front which you unclip then the filter slides in or out. Make sure that you don't have the fan running when you change the filter, or you'll end up sucking all sorts of crap into the fan at the worst possible moment!

Only real way to check it is to jack it up, get underneath the car and have someone rock the engine forwards and backwards while you watch the gearbox mount for free play. The mount itself is easy enough to spot, if you're under the car with your feet sticking out of the front of the car (ie...

Look behind the fusebox and to the left a bit, it's under the shelf that the wiper spindles mount to, and behind the plastic bulkhead at the back of the engine bay.

Because it happens within twenty cycles of the engine. If you want to get round it bogging down, the trick is to use the clutch to stop the revs dropping as you pull away.

No, if you get the right COPs from a Toyota (there's a whole host of cars that suitable ones were fitted to) then all you need to do is provide a logic level signal to control them, as they have their own igniter built in. That makes life a lot easier, as you don't have to run high current...

TBH I'd just go straight to a Toyota COP setup and use sequential ignition, if you're converting a car which is currently not running an EFI setup you may as well go straight to the gold standard

No, for starters the Ford coil pack is actually a pair of coils, each of which fires twice per engine cycle, ie. once every 360 degrees. If you fired one coil to all four plugs every 180 degrees you'd be firing the coil on each cylinder's intake stroke which would destroy your engine in short...

You can't fire the Ford coil pack directly from the MS-II no matter what you do, as the MS-II as standard only has one high current driver so you'll need to add another one in. Best off purchasing a 4 channel driver board from JBPerf and using that to build two ignition drivers and skip the one...

What do you mean you can feel the limiter? It's not something that gets bounced against, it's based on spark retard so it's instantaneous.