honychurch
New member
- Joined
- May 31, 2012
- Messages
- 9
Hi,
The 2001 1.7 Puma I recently bought has been giving me some bother and I’m looking for some advice before wasting money replacing parts that are OK.
The questions:
1. The ABS/TC lights are constantly on. The front off side brake is binding very badly, front near side binding slightly. Is there any common point of failure which could account for both of these issues?
2. Is it worth splashing out to have the local Ford dealer do a diagnostics on the fault code?
3. Should I try replacing MC first, then ABS unit....etc
The history:
Bought the car a few weeks back with the ABS/TC lights on. Assumed it was a sensor issue so nothing too much to worry about. Drove it home ~15mins. Could cook on the off side front wheel. Stripped the brakes and found the pad was stuck in the carrier. Replaced both sides ABS sensor, discs and pads. I also cleaned up and filed down carrier to make sure the pads move freely. However as soon as I apply the brakes, the offside especially still fails to release correctly and causes the wheel to heat up extremely fast. From reading the other posts it appears that usually this is caused by a fault in the master cylinder. Going back to the original question is it possibly a fault with the ABS unit could cause this binding issue or should I just replace the master cylinder?
I attempted to use my VAG diagnostic reader (as it also supports reading J1850 PWM) to read the fault codes but although it connected OK it reported no found fault code. I can only assume that this tool is not compatible with all of the ford features. I have tested all of the sensors with a DMM and they read the same value which was just over 1k. I also checked that the resistance did change when the wheels are spun. I also checked each of the controller’s side connectors with the ignition on and had 2.5v on all of them. So it appears that everything should be OK. I did try to get the ABS control unit connector off to check there was no corrosion preventing a good connection but struggled to work out how to get to it without taking too much of the car apart so just left it. Linked to the original question could a fault in the ABS unit cause the breaks to bind?
I’m unsure of which way to proceed now, if there was no issue with the ABS I would go for the MC straight away but something is making me question if it could be the ABS fault which is causing issues with the brakes.
I would really appreciate some advice on this matter.
Thank you in advance.
Ian
The 2001 1.7 Puma I recently bought has been giving me some bother and I’m looking for some advice before wasting money replacing parts that are OK.
The questions:
1. The ABS/TC lights are constantly on. The front off side brake is binding very badly, front near side binding slightly. Is there any common point of failure which could account for both of these issues?
2. Is it worth splashing out to have the local Ford dealer do a diagnostics on the fault code?
3. Should I try replacing MC first, then ABS unit....etc
The history:
Bought the car a few weeks back with the ABS/TC lights on. Assumed it was a sensor issue so nothing too much to worry about. Drove it home ~15mins. Could cook on the off side front wheel. Stripped the brakes and found the pad was stuck in the carrier. Replaced both sides ABS sensor, discs and pads. I also cleaned up and filed down carrier to make sure the pads move freely. However as soon as I apply the brakes, the offside especially still fails to release correctly and causes the wheel to heat up extremely fast. From reading the other posts it appears that usually this is caused by a fault in the master cylinder. Going back to the original question is it possibly a fault with the ABS unit could cause this binding issue or should I just replace the master cylinder?
I attempted to use my VAG diagnostic reader (as it also supports reading J1850 PWM) to read the fault codes but although it connected OK it reported no found fault code. I can only assume that this tool is not compatible with all of the ford features. I have tested all of the sensors with a DMM and they read the same value which was just over 1k. I also checked that the resistance did change when the wheels are spun. I also checked each of the controller’s side connectors with the ignition on and had 2.5v on all of them. So it appears that everything should be OK. I did try to get the ABS control unit connector off to check there was no corrosion preventing a good connection but struggled to work out how to get to it without taking too much of the car apart so just left it. Linked to the original question could a fault in the ABS unit cause the breaks to bind?
I’m unsure of which way to proceed now, if there was no issue with the ABS I would go for the MC straight away but something is making me question if it could be the ABS fault which is causing issues with the brakes.
I would really appreciate some advice on this matter.
Thank you in advance.
Ian
