Puma Plus

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JonB

New member
Joined
Sep 28, 2009
Messages
478
Location
Bromley, Kent.
This is the second go at this as my original plans got scuppered when the insurance companies decided not to repair my old Puma.
The main trouble I had was not being able to do any more than a weekends work at any one time. Solved that by buying a car for the Mrs to drive once she passes her test (and me to use daily) then another Puma to work on.
Bought a rather neglected example that had been used as a fun runabout while the owner worked on his prefered drive, knew it needed a clutch, n/s front wheel bearing, had exhaust issues, ABS problems and the tracking redone.
This car was going to be perfect to fit my black and red half leather ST seats into, front and back. I am going to build a 5 seat Puma.
Got her home and started stripping to get at the clutch.
As I intended to replace all of the rubber underneath, and knew it was in the way, started with the front suspension. Soon as the wheels were off I noticed a bent steering rod, that would explain why the steering wheel was offset, someone had just lengthened the adjustment on the other side to compensate! I also found an ABS sensor wire tucked up the arch with the plug cut off, guess that might explain the ABS light being on.
Fortunately I was able to get another rack, along with various other parts from a guy breaking.
Next thing was strip all the bits in the way of getting the gearbox out, as I pulled the o/b driveshaft I noticed that the gear oil was rather red and foamy, I think someone had used ATF instead of gear oil!
Finally got to the clutch which was indeed knackered, then checked the endfloat at the flywheel and got 0.4mm. This is within specified tollerances but right at the top end, so decided to look for a lower mileage engine. I was willing to strip the one I had to change the slightly weepy head gasket and change the cam belt, oil seals etc, but bottom end is really out of my comfort zone.
Then I really blew my budget because I had fully intended to get a LSD for the gearbox to couple to a reconditioned engine via a Focus clutch, but bought the engine and LSD box from FRP336.
This is really going to be a Puma Plus now, plus one seat and plus 30HP!
Now I am looking for a heavier ARB to fit in behind the steering rack before the engine gets delivered to my work as I would rather not fit it from below as that entails dropping the subframe.
I also had time to wash the mud out from the engine bay where someone had been off roading!
Have given the 16" Mondeo wheels a coat of black paint as the silver was flaking off, and painted the calipers from the 300mm setup bright red.
Thats about as far as I have got, I will try to add some pics as I rebuild, but no promises.
 
Update time.
What a P.I.T.A. the ARB was, nobody was able to find me one in the breaking world, various people who claimed to have STs in bits just had not got that far or were unwilling to strip it so had to go to Fords. Duly ordered part number F1105238 only to be told that there was no stock available in UK, and only one in Europe (Spain) and my dealer was not willing to pay the carriage! Several phone calls to Customer Services who sent a standard Puma one to the dealer and cancelled my backorder, so I had to reorder it, 7 weeks later a new batch are in and I have one.
Fitted new ARB and bushes, now on with the steering rack that I had to replace, decided to reuse my original pump but swap the tensioner over from the FRP lump as it seemed in better nick.
Finally got the engine in today, had to do it the hard way with blocks of wood and a jack as my local HSS had sent their one and only engine hoist out for inspection. Then set about changing the crank oil seal before fitting my freshly plough ground flywheel, had to get the step out of it as the Focus clutch is a bigger diameter.
Reattached the steering pump and tensioner, A/C compressor, alternator and exhaust manifold, then fitted the clutch.
Fitted the new slave cylinder to the gearbox and changed the drive shaft oil seals. Put my new mounts in ready to fit the box tomorrow.
Generally been using the best bits of what I've got and replacing where needed, will make a full list of new bits fitted once the front stage is complete.
More updates as they happen, hopefully a bit more regularly now!!
 
what did you use to measure end float at flywheel end? iv only ever done it at crank pulley?

also did you measure the play pushing the flywheel towards timing belt then away??
 
Interesting read, I'm curious, is the focus ARB a straight bolt on to the puma? And whatdifference do you think it will make?
 
Checked the endfloat with a vernier calliper using it as a depth guage. A very primative push/pull method taking measurements at the same point. Main reason for even checking was I had to add 2 litres of oil when I bought the car and was worried the bottom end was shagged, couldn't hear anything because the exhaust was so holed it drowned everything out when stationary and when I drove it the n/s front wheel bearing was screaming like a banshee.

The ARB I've used is Fiesta not Focus, Ford parts list it as 3/5door sport in usage. Ford have been using the same subframe from early 1990s up to 2006 on lots of small cars, fitting a variety of thickness ARBs from 14mm up to 18mm (std Puma is 16mm) the brackets are all the same but have differing bores to suit each bar so it's a straight swap with bushes. I am hoping it will take a bit of flex out of the front but keep enough softness to not totally muck up the handling.
 
Oh ok, very interesting!! Im in the process of changing my front subframe and ARB, so this is all good info for me. So, do you know if there is a fiesta later then mk5/2002 with the same front sub frame?? All the later fiestas have a lower engine mount where i want it to be!!

Looking at the powerflex ARB's, all the mk6 fiestas have the same bush part number including the ST, so i assume any mk6 ARB will work! Thanks so much for this info, i didnt have a clue that the ARB's were the same, ill definitely use this on mine!
 
what are you changing your sub frame too?

is it going to be a PITA getting it lined up again?
 
ScubaSteve said:
what are you changing your sub frame too?

is it going to be a PITA getting it lined up again?

Im not changing it for another type of frame, im just changing it because mine is a rusty nail!! :oops: Not sure that sandblasting and powdercoating is going to be enough, so ill just buy another good condition one, and refurb that instead! It needs to be good condition because ive got to weld a a bracket for the rear engine mount to it, the standard puma gearbox rear mount wont fit the duratec box.

Its really easy to fit the sub frame back up, the hard part is lining the steering column UJ up while you fix it!!
 
According to TIS you need ford special tool 15-097 x 2 to align the subframe up correctly otherwise "incorrect geometry and steering may occur"

the pair are about 54 quid + shipping, i can order them from spx if you want, let me know
 
We need to stop thread hijacking!!! :roll:

Ive done them before mate, i dropped the subframe on my silver puma and turbo puma, and they both worked out fine. I didnt even know there was an alignment tool, i just lift the subframe, steering column, and ARB onto a trolley, temporarily fix the UJ, then bolt the rest of the frame up. There really isnt any movement once bolts are located, so i dont see the need for a locating tool. Thanks all the same though, any advice/help is much appreciated!!
 
On my subframe, it just has holes, no slots. There is a plate that fixes onto the bottom of the subframe, and engine mount. That locates the passenger side, then i just centre the holes on the drivers side! Then just strike a laser line through the centre of each strut tower, and measure back from that each side.

Not got a clue what podgers are, but if its a tapered pin/dowel, then you are probably right, just a dowel to centre the frame on the bolt holes!
 
When I did mine, I just used a bradawl and eyed them up from underneath, there is about 3mm movement.

Simon
 
yeah i reckon you could factor up a tool to work its a fairly basic tool

http://www.spxtools-shop.com/jlr/product_info.php?info=p542.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

205-316a.jpg


i think im going to buy some for when i do mine though because im a twat lol
 
Thats exactly why I wanted to change the ARB from the top (while the steering rack and engine were out) and had to wait for Ford to supply (F1105238 plus std bush F1310518 x 2 for £107.90 inc VAT), I did consider just drilling a couple of 1/8" holes for datum markers though.
Still gearbox is now in too, time to sort the plumbing, electrics, exhaust shields, inlet manifold and cold air feed. Oh yes nearly forgot about the suspension, brakes and wheel bearings too, lol.
 
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