Rear bearing setup

[johnsbegood]

Hi guys. Doing a bearing on my sisters puma. Read the guide in the how to buy can't fathom the setup of the bearings and bearing cups. I know I have to hammer the two bearing cups in for the bearings to sit in but not sure where I hammer them in from? The front of the hub or the rear or both?? Does the inner bearing cup pop in from the rear and the outer cup pop in from the front up to the ledge that seperates the two cups?? Cheers
Paul

 

[yippeekiay]

Does the inner bearing cup pop in from the rear and the outer cup pop in from the front up to the ledge that seperates the two cups?? Cheers
Paul

In a word, Yes k:

I'm assuming you must be using new drums as you would see how they fit if you were removing the old ones from a drum you were going to reuse.

 

[johnsbegood]

Does the inner bearing cup pop in from the rear and the outer cup pop in from the front up to the ledge that seperates the two cups?? Cheers
Paul

In a word, Yes k:

I'm assuming you must be using new drums as you would see how they fit if you were removing the old ones from a drum you were going to reuse.

Thanks for clearing that one up. Ive read through ur brilliant write up a few times and I'll be reading it again while I do it. I'm doing the job for the first time so wanted to know before I undo the hub bolt on how the bearings and cups go together.
This should make u laugh, picked the bearings kit up from gsf and there was no grease inside. I said oh, no pack of grease. The bloke who served me said no, u don't need grease on these bearings. I just looked at him a bit perplexed and walked out.
Next job is the rear bushes, looking forward to that one...... :?
Thanks again.

 

[ScubaSteve]

you sure you got the right bearings? sounds like hes given you sealed bearing akin to what is fitted in the front hubs

bearings and races go like this

O)|(O

O = bearing
) = race
| = metal flange of drum between them

 

[johnsbegood]

cheers steve.
yeah got the right bearings, there a cone shape and have two of them with the two cups they sit in. just the bloke at gsf was not the sharpest looking tool in the box if u get what i mean.
i know the front ones are sealed as i had to do the front passenger side earlier in the year.
thanks again

 

[johnsbegood]

Hi. Just a quick question. What size is the hub nut under the outside 30mm cage? The new but supplied rounded off when I tried to torque it up earlier. Useless cheap nut. Used the original nut in the other side which was a skf one.
Thanks

 

[ScubaSteve]

you have to use the nut with the metal surround in tact, its a torque nut

 

[johnsbegood]

you have to use the nut with the metal surround in tact, its a torque nut

I did bud but it started to round off when I started to tighten it up to the 235 nm rating. It's now rounded off that I can't undo or do it up. That's why I was asking if anyone knew the size of the but under that "cage"??

 

[ScubaSteve]

not sure maybe a mm or so smaller, nut size should be 30mm, is that what you used? as it would be really difficult to round off

 

[johnsbegood]

Yeah bought a ck 30mm socket off eBay especially for the job. The weird thing is the original nut that was on the car, an oe skf one I reused on the other side after the new replacement nut rounded off after my first attempt. It's almost like the 30mm socket it just that little but big, but the other nut tightened up fine. Probably just a cheap hub nut in the kit from gsf.

 

[johnsbegood]

right well somethings gone badly wrong guys :evil: ! the drivers rear bearing has died only after 2 weeks of light driving, oh and the passenger one is also starting to grind. the drums have about 91k on them. i have replaced the inner and outer bearing with new cups and seals. i have greased both inner and outer bearings correctly. i then reassembled and slap the torque nut on.
now i get a phone call from a garage down south where my sister is on holiday saying that the bearings are knackered, the drivers is completley gone and the passenger one is not far behind. the mechanic says that sometimes the drums knacker out and only show up when a new bearing is renewed. i got the bearings from GSF and paid about £22 each side.
the garage have reccomended to replace the drivers side drum and renew the bearing at about £160!
what u reckon?

 

[ScubaSteve]

i recommend only buying ford bearings, i bought 3rd party ones and they lasted 50 miles

also vital you pack the bearings properly with grease, what method did you use?

watch this

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agxjGtmHV_4[/youtube]

if its breaking ford bearings you may need new stub axles

 

[johnsbegood]

Got some v-tech bearings from GSF. Packed the bearings exactly the same way as in that video. The garage is now replacing the drums and bearings for new items. Costing around £300+ for both to be done. :evil:

 

[ScubaSteve]

was there anything visually wrong with the drum where you tap the races into? i would be more inclined to think it was stub axles tbh

 

[johnsbegood]

to be honest it was clean as anything. no divets or gauges out the metal. the ledge had some very light tap marks on it but nothing to really worry about it. the bearing cups tapped up to the ledge and i made sure they were sitting flat against it all the way round. we'll have to c what happens i suppose after the new drums and bearings have been refitted.

 

[ScubaSteve]

yeah i guess i would have been inclined to try ford bearings first, cheaper and 3rd party ones are known to be naff

was the supplied nut a proper torque nut? was it wafered? or solid?

 

[johnsbegood]

Well I reused the old caged nuts after the first one I used from the kit started to round of so I had to peel back the cage and undo each nut individually until the 5mm washer which held the out bearing in place could come out. I then reused the old nut which I could then retighten up.
I recently did the rear bushes aswell but had to remove bracket bolts instead of the through nut and bolt. On putting it back together I dropped the car back to the ground to settle it in. I then retightened the bracket bolts and through bolt/but to the correct torque.

 

[ScubaSteve]

oh well youve spent the cash now lol, i personally would have tried new ford bearing kits with come with proper nuts etc

 

[johnsbegood]

Well my sister has. Lol. £292 for two new rear bearings and drums. Just annoying after I spent the time sorting and doing the bearings really carefully they knacker out. Still, spoke to gsf today and there willing to refund the cheap bearings. That twice now I've had problems from gsf's v-techs range. Bloody useless stuff. Thanks again for the advice.