JASAPP

Hi everybody,

After some thinking and encouraged by my good friend Pumanoob, I have decided to post my journey with my puma so far. JASAPP? What it stands for? Just Another Sub Average Puma Project. Having seen miracles performed by some of the members here, my effort is waaaaaay off that standard and abilities hence the Jasapp!

Anyway, I went to buy my puma in Germany. I wanted a good example and went to collect in Bonn. That is just about 1000 km in one direction. It was (and still is) futura model, in apperance very similar to millenium edition as far as the interior goes (recaro seats, full leather interior). The colour is moondust silver.
So, after a nice drive to Bonn and back, here she was in my carport




Standard car with F1 wheels. When I collected it was deep winter and going from Germany meant I7d need to pass thorugh Alps so I bought winter tyres before I went home with it; no way I would have passed through Alps without them!

Two weeks later, I had an accident: a deer jumped into me on a local road!
The end result:







As the car was going to be repaired to get rid of the rust, not to much harm, except I had to buy a new headlamp…

Soon I prepped the car for the bodyshop.





The worst of the rust was in VIN area. Went on to see my MOT tester to get advice on that. He said nothing to worry, just cut it out, repair the area beneath it and put it on top. He saw the car, the numbers are visible, no problems there! Phew, one worry less!



The car at body shop. The usual rusty rear end was replaced with zinc coated 1.2 mm thick steel. Also, did it without the bended section inside which is causing the rust in the first place!





Both sides done, the underbody as well, and sealed and sent off to paintshop. The car prepared for the spray job





And the area hit by deer repaired



The car after respray. I did respray everything except the roof. Thought of doing that as well, but since I have heated windscreen, and the guy doing the spray job said there was 10% possibility it would crack on taking down so decided against it. It is expensive as hell…





EDIT: started reposting with images now hosted by imgur. Won't be held ransom by photobucket!

First thing to be done was retrim of steering wheel. In details: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=266268#p266268" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Short version: I went from this







to this




Few steps…











EDIT: now reposting with images now hosted by imgur. Won't be held ransom by photobucket!

Nice job k:

Next was the ICE installation. In detail here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=275960#p275960" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Everything was accoustically treated including the roof. The headunit was replaced with Alpine unit. Also put in the steering wheel remote controls from a Mk1 focus. Made custom A pillars for twitters and dressed it in alcantara. End result in few images









The iPod is primary source of music

Neil said:

Nice job k:

Click to expand...

Cheers!

Also, had to do something about the rear drums… http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=267506#p267506" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or, few images:












Much better...

Such a nice Puma - About the rust on the rear arches you said the bending section will create rust, How did you find out about this? My Puma will have a new piece of metal in the future and I was thinking about getting a bending section for the carpets, Have you had any problems with the carpet being lose inside the arches?

Thanks!

It will not create rust on itself, but will trap crap and moisture that in time lead to rust. No problems with carpet what so ever!

Come the summertime, took the car to our coast. It performed nicely, but on spirited drive downhill the brake pedal went soft. That was it, the car deserves better brakes…..

Queing for the ferry…



Waiting at the port…


Upgrade to ST150 brakes in detail can be found here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=288840#p288840" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Short version in few pictures



Sandblasted


Resprayed in owen


Ready for assembly


And on the car

Next on list was the rear disc conversion. It was much tougher nut to be crackered. Dead easy to put on the car, but ABS needs precision to operate as it should.
In detail here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=302532#p302532" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Pleased to say it works perfectly now!

Awesome thread mate, and lovley car!

When my Puma's arches rotted away, I had while quarters put on, and you could see exactly how they rot. Sadly, it's a design flaw, not the carpet liners or lip in the arch (although this does get surface corrosion).

Basically, rainwater somehow runs down the inside, down and sits in the crevice between the inner wheel tub and the arch. A ready made disaster, Rot from the inside out rather that outside in. You could see the pathetic attempt of Ford to underseal the arches, and the spots where the underseal didn't reach is exactly where they rot out.

Keep up the thread!

XAF said:

Awesome thread mate, and lovley car!

When my Puma's arches rotted away, I had while quarters put on, and you could see exactly how they rot. Sadly, it's a design flaw, not the carpet liners or lip in the arch (although this does get surface corrosion).

Basically, rainwater somehow runs down the inside, down and sits in the crevice between the inner wheel tub and the arch. A ready made disaster, Rot from the inside out rather that outside in. You could see the pathetic attempt of Ford to underseal the arches, and the spots where the underseal didn't reach is exactly where they rot out.

Keep up the thread!

Click to expand...

Cheers, mate!

Didn't fancy the VIN plate sticker. So had the VIN plate made like it was supposed to be made. IN detail here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=280864#p280864" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or, few images:





And the end result engraved in 3 mm thick aluminium



And in the car

After that I just couldn't stand the fact that you can't open the boot while engine is running. Did the interior boot release mod using the fordka switch and descrption in how to section. Also, bothered to take pictures of it. To be found here: http://www.projectpuma.com/viewtopic.php?p=290639#p290639" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Or just few images, as usual:

Switch you need to find in the boot and bring another +12V to it to open the bonnet


Some soldering (messy, I admit. Now would just cut it and then resolder it to make it neater)


If you get just the switch without the female plug, the female plug of the electric window mechanism is THE SAME and can be used


As these images prove




After that you just have to match it to this scheme (courtesy of Fordwiki)


Soldering and matching the wires


Took the signal from the light switch nearby, so the switch is illuminated at night and looks OEM




Searching for a permanent 12V behind the radio


Success!


Positioning the switch using the negative cut in MDF


Marked the opening to be cut (used stanley knife)


And end product!

Now and then take it to a blast and she takes it without a problem…. (not legal to be driving faster then 153 km/h here, but…. )


Also, some wintery pictures from last winter


And how she looked after a drive in those conditions


Now the speed cameras wouldn't be a problem!

Cool thread

Far from sub average. Some nice little bits, i like the boot switch mod.

TGPlayer1 said:

Far from sub average.

Click to expand...

I agree. Thread should be renamed AAPP.

Thanks for your kind words!
Perhaps now is time to say that since I bought the car have changed all shocks and front springs (stayed at OEM, you saw the snow, if the car was lowered it would be useless in those conditions). Also redid the rear bushes and have on my shelves the front set of bushes as well. After that is done, I hope the car would be back to as good as new standard!
Today just changed the oil and filters; I swear to you I can notice the change in engine note when the oil passes its prime. The sound becomes more metallic, if you know what I am trying to say? Anyway, always use the Formula F OEM oil (I can get it here dirt cheap) and change it with filter every 10.000 kms. After change the engine works like a charm on tickover <3

Some more things I did to my car. Cleaned and painted MAF. The wire was brownish, cleaned it first with carburettor cleaner, and then with brake cleaner (carb cleaner leaves a lubricating film). It was clean after and the car is idling rock steady! Good improvement, and I'd swear the engine is more responsive too!



Ready for painting…


Painted


And back in the car



Did the same to the topmounts as they were rusty and bad looking


Primed


Painted in black


And in place

Had to change the HCV. It was operational, but the plastic fell appart. It happened on way to work, luckily I was just one minute from it so crawled to while the system was leaking.

This happened




Someone asked which one is original. Bosch made it as this picture proves


Bought the FeBi as it was the only one HCT they had in the store nearby and changed it on my lunch break. Made a show in parking yard while changing it, topped it with water, let the system get rid of air and that was it. Works!