Boot lock activation (or not?):2 solenoids?

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Paradiddle

New member
Joined
Jul 27, 2013
Messages
9
Boot push button (on rear of car, not key fob) stopped working. It pushes in but nothing happens. Key fits in easily and turns.
Recently replaced the weakening activator solenoid (located on left of vehicle and required removing rear bumber to replace) with a new, very strong one (£37 & made in Germany - not a cheapy from China) which solved the issue.
6 months on and now the boot button has stopped working so have rigged a temporary fix: a string to the cable so it can ce pulled from inside the car.
I don't understand why there are 2 solenoids that operate the catch (one remote actuator on left of vehicle and the other on the right being attached to the button by rear light cluster). Anyone know?
Initial tests shows electrical power to connections so I'm going to remove the push-button release from the car (have to drill out 2 rivets) and see if it can be repaired. Haven't found a replacement online so far but anyway, I want to keep the original key barrel to avoid needing a different key for the boot.
Any helpful suggestions appreciated (apart from buy a new car!)
 
Ok, so I'm an idiot. Ignore my earlier post. There is only one solenoid and it's separate from the push button lock. Having removed the lock from the car to my bench I can see it is just a lock with a couple of microswitches. Have checked all the functions with a meter I've found everything is working on the unit as it should. The same goes for the activation solenoid on the car. All earthing is OK so I conclude there's a broken wire or bad connector somewhere. Looks like hours of fun lay ahead for me tracing wires.
 
The problem with the boot lock solenoid may be that the voltage drop from the control to the solenoid through the thin piece of copper masquerading as a cable, does not allow sufficient current to operate the solenoid.

On my 2001 Thunder (long gone sadly) not being able to unlock the boot was an indication that the car battery was getting flat. You could start the car, but not open the boot until the engine was running !
 
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And...
IIRC, when I put a hatch release button on the dash, I connected the slenoid cable to a relay coil, then used the permanent rear wiper supply in the boot to actually drive the solenoic.
 
The problem with the boot lock solenoid may be that the voltage drop from the control to the solenoid through the thin piece of copper masquerading as a cable, does not allow sufficient current to operate the solenoid.

On my 2001 Thunder (long gone sadly) not being able to unlock the boot was an indication that the car battery was getting flat. You could start the car, but not open the boot until the engine was running !
On the Puma, once the engine is on, the boot cannot be opened either with the external button or the remote (3 button key) button. To overcome this, some people (including myself) fitted an internal boot release.
https://www.projectpuma.com/threads/interior-boot-release-mod-for-beginners.22557/
 
Yog,
Thanks for correcting that, and as you point out, that is why I fitted boot the remote release !
 
Thankfully the problem is solved. It was a broken wire causing an intermittent connection. As usual, the fault only occurred at the most inconvenient time and not when testing the circuit - until yesterday; a great relief.
Thanks everyone for your inputs.
 
Think I have the same problem now!!!
I insert key into boot lock turn to the right and get a piss weak 'bzzzzzzzzz'...try again and 'bzzzz'...then nothing.On occasions it will pop open but guess I'm going to have to problem solve !!!!
Also I'm having to use the key to open the car doors manually as think boot problem is causing central locking problems!!!Stick key in to unlock and 'bzzzzzzzzz'...bzzzzzz....you can see the interior door handle moving !!!!!!
 

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