Cam belt replacement tutorial?

[-B-]

Is there such a thing as a tutorial on here, showing how it's done? I couldn't find anything with a quick search.

Failing that, a list of parts required, would be useful.

I've never changed a cam-belt before.

 

[tuonokid]

The Ford TIS has all the details and you should be able to search for it on here. Gates technical bulletin #036 is essential for cam belt tensioning and you can find that on the net. If you've never done a cambelt change before I would advise that don't start on this one as special tools are required and it's easy to do it wrong and wreck your engine.
STEAVIE (London) and EL dude (Nottingham) do cambelt changes on here at competitive prices if you're anywhere near them.
Barry

 

[jimfrp88]

Yes as Barry has said, if you've never done one before I wouldn't even advise you attempting the Puma.
I've done a handful of timing belts myself and I still triple check everything before putting it all back together.

It's not a hard job by any means as long as you know what you're doing.
But in your case I'd get a professional.

 

[tractorboy]

I did it from the Ford workshop manual (TIS). I've probably done it on about 10 other cars before and this one was easily the most difficult. As for parts, off the top of my head it's:

1. Cambelt kit (belt and tensioners).
2. Water pump (unless it's fairly new.)
3. Auxiliary belt (unless you know it's fairly new.)
4. Timing locking kit (e.g. Laser).
5. Rocker cover gasket (Genuine Ford!)
6. Coolant.

You'll also need a big breaker bar/scaffold pole or similar and a tool to hold the crank pulley.

Bob

 

[joedeltahf]

http://www.gates.com/europe/file_displa" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 33XS%2Epdf

this is a must

 

[tractorboy]

^^^^Broken link but I assume that's the instructions to correctly set up the tensioner (2 stage pin removal)?

That cannot be stressed enough. Both mine and my son's had been set wrong; my son's belt jumped and I had to rebuild the cylinder head.

The Ford TIS does give the correct procedure too.

Bob

 

[YOG]

http://ww2.gates.com/europe/file_display_common.cfm?thispath=Europe/documents_module&file=TB_036_E2_K035433XS.pdf" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

^^^^Broken link but I assume that's the instructions to correctly set up the tensioner (2 stage pin removal)?

That cannot be stressed enough. Both mine and my son's had been set wrong; my son's belt jumped and I had to rebuild the cylinder head.

The Ford TIS does give the correct procedure too.

Bob

:? I doubt that was anything to do with the pin removal technique :lol:

 

[Fanwheel]

This is good timing as I'm getting my cam belt & water pump done tomorrow. I will print out the bulletin 36 and give it to the garage!

 

[tractorboy]

^^^^Broken link but I assume that's the instructions to correctly set up the tensioner (2 stage pin removal)?

That cannot be stressed enough. Both mine and my son's had been set wrong; my son's belt jumped and I had to rebuild the cylinder head.

The Ford TIS does give the correct procedure too.

Bob

:? I doubt that was anything to do with the pin removal technique :lol:

Why? If the tensioner is set wrong the anti-kickback won't be operational which can result in the belt jumping.

Bob

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

The little kickback arm is a kind of a finishing touch to the movement of the tensioner...

if the belt were to actually jump teeth it must have VERY poorly tensioned around all the pulleys...this is the problem when people lock up the cams with the 'cam bar' and then pull the pin out and think it's all been done right... :lol:

Chris

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

I wrote a few thoughts on this subject ages ago now..



http://www.pumapeople.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=108660&st=0&p=928934&hl=+cam%20+tension&fromsearch=1&#entry928934" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

 

[tuonokid]

My MacAfee doesn't want me to go on there but when I did my cambelt I had all the pulleys loose to ensure the tensioner could pull from both directions. If the pulleys have been tightened before tensioning, the cambelt will only be tensioned between the crank and the exhaust cam leaving the rest of the belt run incorrectly tensioned.
Barry

 

[748]

Exactly

 

[tractorboy]

The little kickback arm is a kind of a finishing touch to the movement of the tensioner...

if the belt were to actually jump teeth it must have VERY poorly tensioned around all the pulleys...this is the problem when people lock up the cams with the 'cam bar' and then pull the pin out and think it's all been done right... :lol:

Chris

Are you saying that the anti-kickback mechanism is unnecessary? Difficult to believe it's been designed and implemented if it's not required. As for what happened on my Son's car, the inlet cam was out of time by just enough to bend the valves slightly. The belt was nice and tight all the way round so the only way I can see it jumped was because kickback occurred. (The tensioner had been set as described in your linked post -"smaller bolt is done up FINGER tight only and then tightened up AFTER the pin is withdrawn", i.e. incorrectly according to Ford and Gates.)

Bob

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

The little kickback arm is a kind of a finishing touch to the movement of the tensioner...

if the belt were to actually jump teeth it must have VERY poorly tensioned around all the pulleys...this is the problem when people lock up the cams with the 'cam bar' and then pull the pin out and think it's all been done right... :lol:

Chris

Are you saying that the anti-kickback mechanism is unnecessary? )

Bob

no :grin:

What I am saying is that, as soon as you pull the pin a couple of mm and the belt is spring loaded, it doesn't really make a blind bit of difference whether you fully withdraw the pin or not... as it doesn't generally move out of position, as long as you torque the bolt straight away.... and observe that there is the correct amount of kickback gap (around 2-3mm from memory)

Tightening the bolt before you fully withdraw the pin is just a more 'text book' way of getting it right every time before the kickback arm moves out of place...

going back to 'tooth jumping' ..again, the ribs on the belt are huge and a snug fit into the cams...something is seriously wrong if they are jumping from one to another :lol:

The two most common mistakes made with this procedure are the incorrect tension of the belt due to locking up the cam pulleys..and also loosing the timing because the crank has been rested at the pin and not locked up properly at the flywheel..

:idea:

Chris

 

[joedeltahf]

speaking from experience of doing it wrong bolt at bottom of slot = good, bolt at top of slot = jumped tooth

only loosened crank and exhaust pulley though

http://ww2.gates.com/europe/file_displa" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 5433XS.pdf

 

[tractorboy]

Ah OK, understand now Chris. On my Son's it had definitely moved into the wrong position. Sounds like it's a bit of a lottery as to whether or not it goes wrong.

Bob

 

[tuonokid]

To be fair if you're doing the belt change with the engine in situ you don't really get the opportunity of checking the belt tensioner (by eye) as you do with the motor out so sticking to the pin out first stage and then locking the tensioner and then removing the pin altogether is the right thing to do. Also with the engine in situ there's not much waggle space for the pin so I bent mine so it would come out easier.
Barry

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

To be fair if you're doing the belt change with the engine in situ you don't really get the opportunity of checking the belt tensioner (by eye) as you do with the motor out so sticking to the pin out first stage and then locking the tensioner and then removing the pin altogether is the right thing to do. Also with the engine in situ there's not much waggle space for the pin so I bent mine so it would come out easier.
Barry

A good point