Central Locking and electric mirrors are inop..

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hardmonkeys

New member
Joined
Jan 22, 2014
Messages
196
Location
Weymouth
I have recently bought a 98 Melina Blue Puma for the wife, we've noticed the central locking doesn't work at all, not even with the key or the remote key, it's not such a massive problem, but it would be nice to have :)

Also the electric mirrors are inop too, would this be a related problem, relay or fuses??

Thanks for any help

Warren
 
There is a GEM module behind the carpet, drivers side footwell.
It controls the central locking etc. and is also what you key will get programmed to when you reprogram it to the central locking.

May be worth looking to see if it's plugged in correctly.....
 
Thank you, I have something else to add to this...when I locked the car with the key from the passenger side, it made a whining noise, like I remember my Escort did when the deadlocks?? went on, it locked the passenger side..but not the drivers, when I tried locking the drivers side with the key, it locked, but no whine...

Will have a gander at the GEM unit over the weekend.

Thanks again...

Warren
 
The whining noise will be the central locking motor.

If the drivers side doesn't make a noise, it's possible the motor on the lock has stopped working, hence why both doors won't lock from the drivers side.

With regards to the wing mirrors.... Does neither side move, or just one side...?
They may have been changed for manual ones..... There is a black triangular cover which covers the back of the mirror where it mounts to the door. Should find the electrical plug there too. May be worth checking that to see if it's connected or any voltage there....
 
Right...fuse 8 was missing...Central locking,electric mirror adjustment...ANTI THEFT ALARM FLASHER....

So I've replaced the fuse, I have central locking...I have electric mirror adjustment....I ALSO HAVE FLASHING INDICATORS AS IF THE ALARM IS GOING OFF...but no sound.

How do I stop the flashing...I used the key to open the car..the remote doesn't work...if I press the button(2button type, nothing happens unless I hold it down for a few seconds...maybe 4-5.

Does that mean it needs programming?
 
Lock doors then open from passenger side and see if that stops hazzards,reprogram fob,there is a guide on the forum in how to section.
If hazzards dont stop after after that then it could be a faulty micro switch in the doors.
 
martinthrapston said:
Lock doors then open from passenger side and see if that stops hazzards,reprogram fob,there is a guide on the forum in how to section.
If hazzards dont stop after after that then it could be a faulty micro switch in the doors.


Thanks..I did this...and true enough the hazards stopped...thanks!!

The lock barrel in the drivers door is loose...as in moves back and forth in its apacture...doesn't come out..but doesn't seem 100% secure.
 
All donE!!! You guys are the dogs!!! We now have a working remote...working mirrors...and a spare key(non remote) that doesn't set the alarm off...which means I can now reconnect the alarm hooter as it's not gonna go off when I go to work at 2-3am of a morning!!!

Thank you so much
 
hardmonkeys said:
All donE!!! You guys are the dogs!!! We now have a working remote...working mirrors...and a spare key(non remote) that doesn't set the alarm off...which means I can now reconnect the alarm hooter as it's not gonna go off when I go to work at 2-3am of a morning!!!

Thank you so much


Actually scrap that lol, when I double-lock with the remote, and open with the spare(non remote) that alarm still goes off...unless I open passenger side 1st...any ideas??
 
The loose lock in the drivers door is not activating the micro switch properly, so the alarm thinks you've opened the door without unlocking it or broken in to the car.

You will need to strip the inside of the door down to work out why the lock is loose. Until you sort that, you will either need to use the remote only, or use the passenger door.
 
Was going to suggest the micro switch when you said the passenger door activates it but the driver's doesn't.

Pain in the backside to get to, but I'd be fairly confident that is your issue. If you want to check prior to the full strip down, you can get the wiring by just taking the door card off. You'll just need the lock mech in bits to change the switch.
 
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