Changing standard cams for FRP cams

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Dwighet

Member
Joined
Mar 21, 2014
Messages
184
Guys im looking for a tutorial on changing out standard cams for FRP cams..
I have a good friend who is a very good mechanic and Im sure he is well up for the job but as we say over here in Ireland...Too be sure to be sure..LOL..
I would like to do a bit of research Before we get stuck into it so if any of ye have some sort of tutorial that I can read up on would be greatly appreciated.

With the research I have done so far I can only find info on changing the cam belt.

My concerns are when the standard cams are removed does the VCT need to be locked somehow or is it just a simple replacement with the new FRP cams using the FRP cam tool and standard crank locking tool to keep TDC..

Any input would be greatly appreciated
 
Replace with new cambelt and tensioner at same time as it would be silly stripping down and not replacing. Also I would replace water pump(with a genuine Ford one) as well to give the car some longevity without any immediate major servicing.

Please don't get worried about fitting frp cams as it is standard OEM equipments Ford have made it nice and easy. The only difference as you say is the cams are locked in a different position with FRP locking bar and pin in crank. Easy.....

I have a new FRP timing bar if you need one. PM for details.

I have done a few cams changes on the 1700 and it gives the car a good power hike. Ideal to get a remap at same time to get fueling spot on either through a genuine FRP ecu or I would also recommend the Pumaspeed map as it removes the torque limiter in 1st and 2nd gear. Then you've got a right racer.
 
ally frp said:
Replace with new cambelt and tensioner at same time as it would be silly stripping down and not replacing. Also I would replace water pump(with a genuine Ford one) as well to give the car some longevity without any immediate major servicing.

Please don't get worried about fitting frp cams as it is standard OEM equipments Ford have made it nice and easy. The only difference as you say is the cams are locked in a different position with FRP locking bar and pin in crank. Easy.....

I have a new FRP timing bar if you need one. PM for details.

I have done a few cams changes on the 1700 and it gives the car a good power hike. Ideal to get a remap at same time to get fueling spot on either through a genuine FRP ecu or I would also recommend the Pumaspeed map as it removes the torque limiter in 1st and 2nd gear. Then you've got a right racer.
Ally the remap is in the post from puma speed.. Ordered it last Thursday...
I have the new belt kit and waterpump(genuine parts) sitting here in a box ready to go.
Ran out of spare cash for the cams so they will be bought in a few weeks..

I will be in touch about the FRP cam locking tool...Thanks for the offer..
I like what you did to your brothers engine with the lms plenum and throttle body so when the spare coin is available they will be bought and fitted aswell..

As far as a port and polish goes... well that is in the pipeline need to get time off work to get that done..

Cheers
 
To make it easier for future head work a spare head is the best option.

In regards to my bro inlaws engine I built a new one from a brand new bottom end and fitted a modified head. So the car wasn't off road waiting on parts build etc.

Let me know how you get on with the PS map or indeed can help with anything else. I was really impressed with the PS map tbh.

Best of luck.

Cheers

Ally
 
If you can wait to the weekend of the 14th Febuary I can send you over the details of the correct method of changing the cams.

I also hire out the FRP timing tool if you wanted to save a bit of money over buying one.
 
Bentleya said:
If you can wait to the weekend of the 14th Febuary I can send you over the details of the correct method of changing the cams.

I also hire out the FRP timing tool if you wanted to save a bit of money over buying one.
That would be great...
Much appreciated
 
Hi,

I have just sourced a replacement engine that has only covered 27k. I only got it because l wish to embark on a bit of engine tuning and think it would be better to do it on a low mileage engine rather than on my current one that has done 136k, although it still pulls strongly and sounds nice and smooth.

I already have the FRP cold air feed and exhaust system. I do not want to go overboard and want a reasonably cost effective solution. So l am thinking about getting FRP cams from Puma Speed or similar then have a remap. Apart from changing the cams is ther anything else mechanical that needs to be done associated with the cam change. Take it for granted before the engine is fitted it will have a new clutch, water pump, cam belt, new injectors and any other necessary parts.

Has anyone any particular camshaft recomendations.

Regards
Richard.
 
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