Fitting anti-roll bar bushes???

[perdrix]

I ordered a full set of Powerflex bushes for my 1.7 Puma. All are fitted with the exception of the anti-roll bar bushes.

How on earth do I get the old ones out and the new ones in? Help!

Thanks
Dave

 

[moondustka]

Hi Dave,

It is a bit of a nightmare to be honest. If you don't want to take the subframe off, then you have to undo the front bolt and bend the bracket up to swap them over. It's still not the easiest but you can do it.

The long but proper way is to drop the subframe, of course this means disconnecting the steering column too.

Ben

 

[Milkie]

I can't really remember too much as it is a while ago and I've only done it once, while changing gearbox and clutch with the help of someone else.

From what I remember we undid the rear wishbone bolt that goes into the chassis, used a crowbar to create some space between bushes and wishbone, stuck a big socket inbetween so we had some space to work with. Obviously I've missed out a lot of steps, but this is the most important part I think. This enabled us to be able to get a spanner on the bolts for the bushes.

 

[perdrix]

Hmmm... That does sound like a nightmare!! The original bushes here aren't noticeably worn, so I may just decide to leave well alone and write off the cost of these two bushes

Thanks
Dave

 

[zinc2000]

did my bushes without too much hassle, undo front bolt on bracket, lever it up enough to slide bush out, replace new bush, (bit of lubricant helps) bend bracket back into place as much as you can, replace bolt and tighten.....bit of a knuckle breaker I agree but worth it if there is any play at all in the old bushes

 

[Brian']

I did the same as Zinc2000 said. Wasn't that big of a job to be honest.

 

[perdrix]

OK, I'll take another look tomorrow ...

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

If you loosen off the subframe you can giggle it about enough to replace the brackets bushes and bolts...

The standard Ford items are WAY better quality than the PF ones though... :wink:

bending the bracket up isn't ideal as it will have lost it's correct shape when bent back down again... :idea:

 

[moondustka]

[post]353839[/post]The standard Ford items are WAY better quality than the PF ones though... :wink:

Really?! Rubber vs polyurethane? Appreciate the Ford items might be slightly better dimensions.

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

definitely.. the ford item is material lined and grabs the bar much tighter...

When you compare the two side by side there's nothing in it, in terms of stiffness, as the bush is quite small anyway

:grin:

 

[drmotorsport]

Dont forget that if you lower the subframe you need to realign it afterwards correctly with the special tool, otherwise the benefits of your new parts may be minimal!

 

[perdrix]

And where do I get that from ? I'm sure my FoMoCo dealer won't lend them out

Dave

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

That's right.. you really need the tool to locate the subframe and hold it in position whilst you evenly torque it up...

here's a shot of me doing someones FRP from a few years back..

 

[perdrix]

So where can I get hold of these magic tools? Please ...

 

[moondustka]

Ford tolerances are so bad, you can move the whole subframe around in almost a 10mm radius. If it's never been off, you can just line it up to its old position as you'll be able to see where it was.

Does that tool really help to align it? Looks like you could just make something up similar to do the same job.

 

[moondustka]

[post]353919[/post] That's right.. you really need the tool to locate the subframe and hold it in position whilst you evenly torque it up...

here's a shot of me doing someones FRP from a few years back..

Think I finally found my knocking/bang when on/off throttle and over some bumps. I've got to be honest, I didn't really think much of subframe alignment but after trying brand new lower arms and no difference too the knocking, I thought I would try this and looking at the alignment holes it was noticeably out! So, using some solid 20mm aluminium bar (Dan had to hold it) I loosend off the subframe, re-aligned and torqued up (which I also hadn't done before ). I then got the tracking done because of course it would be out, which it was hen I drove it there.

The good news is, there has been no more knocking! 5 years and 2 subframes later, it now doesn't sound like the car is breaking on and off throttle. Went the whole round trip to Ford Fair with no knocking, was bliss.

All that's left to say - Thank you Chris k:

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

Awesome. . Thanks

 

[ElDude at Allison Automotive]

The nice thing about the proper alignment pins is when you've inserted the shaped bar, the outside collar then screws up and mounts the subframe up so you can torque it accurately. . :grin:

 

[moondustka]

[post]355499[/post] The nice thing about the proper alignment pins is when you've inserted the shaped bar, the outside collar then screws up and mounts the subframe up so you can torque it accurately. . :grin:

Yes, I had to get Dan to hold the 20mm bar in. I searched for the alignment pins but seems you can only get second hand ones? And even then I only found some in Gumtree. Anyway they weren't going to arrive before Ford Fair so 20mm aluminium bar it was!

I still don't know what was banging against what.. Can't see any 'knocking' marks anywhere! All I know is that the subframe was too far towards the rear of the car.