ford puma melina blue 1.7 rear bushes

[demonskull13]

hi i took the good weather to do my rear bushes. I have had the rear bushes for ages now as it hasnt stopped raining until wednesday hears a walk through.
first you will need new rear bushes i am using flo-flex ones in orange and copper grease
a drill and bits
a hacksaw
chisel
19mm spanner (for the big bolt) 15mm spanner for other side (maybe a 15mm socket on a breaker bar i used this)to start it off
2 axle stands
trolly jack
maybe black under car spray paint if you want up to you i did this whilst i had the chance
so to start you want to crack the wheel nuts slightly looser b4 putting on axle stands
then jack car up and put on axle stands below


then remove the spare wheel and tray below

and put spare wheels under car for safty just in case. you should allways make sure its sturdy on axle stands b4 removing the wheels below


then take wheels off jack under sway bar and unclip exhaust the 3 rearest rubbers so you can push it out the way when getting to undo and remove nut and bolt on drivers side

below is the bolt took off the long nut on both sides


now take bolts out and drop the sway bar slightly with the jack so you have access to the old bushes


now the fun begins drill the old rubber out carefull not to cut the cup on the sway bar this can take some time

now you should have the ring left in so you need to get a hacksaw and cut from the inside but not to deep as you dont want to cut into the sway bar this is the hardest part

now get a chisel and hammer the old ring out if gets stuck cut a bit more


now you should have the hole left clean up with wire wool and spray with car underbody black spray if you want


below remains of the old bushes

now it started to get dark get new bushes and put a fin film of copper grease around them then the shaft and put into the bushes hole



oh i forgot to say if you have a couple of ramps you can use them in conjunction with the jack to stabilise the sway bar more.
then its the awkward part if your working alone is to guide the sway bar into place so the holes line up i had to go up,down left right ect till i got the one in the easyer to get the second in then just reattach the exhaust and your done. it took me about 7hours not including food break and was getting dark so just didnt get around to photo putting the 2 bolts and nuts in but you should find that easy as its a mirror of taking apart

i cat take responsibility to anyone who gets it wrong sorry just thought i would do this and photos to help other people out.
if you took your puma to the garage to have this done it probably woud take about 3 hours, but theyve got proper ramps ect. and you do get satisfaction of doing this youself.

jason

:twisted: k:

 

[Frank]

Good write-up and good safety protocol used. Do you have a link to where you got your bushes? - I don't need to do mine yet awhile, but you can never have too many links to stuff.

Your picture captioned -

below remains of the old bushes

...made me laugh. There was me thinking someone had emptied their ashtray on your drive.

 

[tuonokid]

Well done Jason but just a small point a lot of members cars will have crusty sills so the best way to hold the car up is to flatten the tops of the stands and use the chassis rail in front of the rear beam as it's much stronger.
Barry

 

[Frank]

Meet my friend Mr Puck - use as is with axle stands on chassis rails or cut V slot for sill use.

 

[tuonokid]

Hi Frank
That looks a good idea and you can use it with the original sills as you said with the V slot but for a unrestored rusty Puma best use the chassis rail to avoid collapsed, dinted, sills.
Barry

 

[Frank]

[post]346709[/post] That looks a good idea and you can use it with the original sills as you said with the V slot but for a unrestored rusty Puma best use the chassis rail to avoid collapsed, dinted, sills.

You can also use those pucks on rails, etc. to avoid 'only 2 point contact' situations with axle stands. But yeah, new sills, old sills, I don't like supporting on sills personally.

Fair play to demonskull though, chocked front wheels, safety tyres, proper axle stands, trolley at the ready - much better than a lot I've seen.

 

[demonskull13]

[post]346701[/post] Good write-up and good safety protocol used. Do you have a link to where you got your bushes? - I don't need to do mine yet awhile, but you can never have too many links to stuff.

Your picture captioned -

below remains of the old bushes

...made me laugh. There was me thinking someone had emptied their ashtray on your drive.

 

[demonskull13]

[post]346701[/post] Good write-up and good safety protocol used. Do you have a link to where you got your bushes? - I don't need to do mine yet awhile, but you can never have too many links to stuff.

 

[demonskull13]

[post]346797[/post]

[post]346701[/post] Good write-up and good safety protocol used. Do you have a link to where you got your bushes? - I don't need to do mine yet awhile, but you can never have too many links to stuff.

there on ebay under: Ford Puma Rear Beam Mount Bushes in Poly and cost £19.18 well worth getting.
sorry i cant find out how to do a link to get you straight there.

Jason k:

 

[demonskull13]

[post]346708[/post] Meet my friend Mr Puck - use as is with axle stands on chassis rails or cut V slot for sill use.

well worth it getting some pucks myself and my sills are still rust free but soon will have tetroseal on when weather permits lol

 

[Frank]

[post]346798[/post] sorry i cant find out how to do a link to get you straight there.

No problem, I found it OK.

For future ref. for links - go to page you want, select the web address in the addressbar and then right click to copy. Then paste link in post.

[post]346799[/post] well worth it getting some pucks myself and my sills are still rust free but soon will have tetroseal

If you line the 'V' with barely tacky masking tape, then the sealer will only stick to the back of the masking tape and means you're not pulling it off the sill every time. Damp newspaper in the V also works.