Skippy said:
Dwighet said:
The voltage should be at 1-4 volts at cold setting to release the valve.This is what I`ve googled so far....Im getting 9 volts at cold setting so the valve is still letting hot water through.I ve ordered a new 2nd hand heater control panel.It was cheap enough...
Ive read that the circuit board in the panel can fry itself..
Yes the control circuit can die. That's what happened to me. That's why I asked if you had the valve connected when you measured the voltage. If it's disconnected you are unlikely to see the correct voltage swing. The output from mine didn't change with changes on the heater setting control.
And definitely use a Ford HCV.
Im with you now...
How do I measure with the plug connected to the HCV
EDIT:
I just dug this up so will have another go at it after work..
Expert: Gallagher99 replied 2 years ago.
Hi there , ok if the heater control valve is a ford one then the valve can be ruled out
As non ford valves dont have long enough pins inside them to reach the multiplug
Hi there good afternoon to you
Hi there good evening to you
Ok the heater control valve has 2 wire going to it
it has a 12 volt feed on the violet/black wire ( this is powered from fuse 13 ( 15amp)
this is located in the CJB ( just under the steering wheel to the right handside )
also ensure that fuse 2 ( 7.5amp) in the CJB is ok as this powers the heater control panel ,
the heater control valve is controlled/opened using a variable earth from pin 5 at the heater control panel to pin 2 at the heater control valve ( black/green)
if the heater control valve has been replaced then i would rule this out
the easiest way to chekc if the heater control panel/wiring to the heater control valve is working is to dissconnect the multiplug and connect either a noid light or a circuit tester ( using a paper clip etc)
and put the temperature dial to the middle ( the light should pulse )
if you turn the dial to fully hot the light will either go out or stay on constant
as with fully cold
( cant remember which way it switches )
Ok can you check the wiring /voltages with the plug connected to the heater valve either back probe or nick the insulation of the wires ( across the 2wires )
The readings should be as follows
Cold = 13.4
Hot = 0
Mid setting = Pulsing between 13.6 volts and 1-4volts
basically when you dissconnect the heater control valve multiplug the valve defaults to hot air ( fully open ) as there is no voltage at the multiplug ( as when hot is selected you get 0 volts =correct ) and allows the hot coolant to flow to the heater matrix
ok when you select cold air the heater control panel sends an earth to the valve which operates the inside of the valve to close and allow any hot coolant to flow back to the engine ( 12 volts += correct )
as the wiring is ok the only things that are left is the actuall pin grip of the connectors on the heater control valve multiplug
if the pin grip is ok ( nice and tight )
then the ONLY thing that is left is the heater control valve or connection
I have came across an issue twice in the last 5 years where a NON ford heater control valve had been fitted and the vehicle was still blowing hot air ( wiring ok )
the fault actually lay with the heater control valve pins being too short to connect to the multipluig
( look at them against the old one or run 2 seperate wires off the heater control valve loom with connectors on them and see if the valve starts operating
you should be able to feel the valve clicking /pulsing when the middle temperature is selcted
if you need anymore help or advice on this issue please let me know
if you are completley satisfied with my answer/advice PLEASE CLICK ACCEPT
Kind regards XXXXX XXXXX and Have a nice evening
Brian
Gallagher99
Gallagher99, FORD SENIOR TECHNICIAN
Category: UK Ford
Satisfied Customers: 1734
Experience: SVQ LEVEL 3, QAULIFIED FORD SENIOR TECHNICIAN , ATA REGISTERD ,12 YEARS EXPERIENCE
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